I did some testing of the low voltage protection and voltage indicator function. The low voltage protection behaves as the manual says, but the cutoff voltage for mine was 2.8V instead of 3.0V as the manual says. The current dropped, at 2.8V, until it reached 1.4mA, then stayed at that value for many seconds until I stopped monitoring.
It has the capability to blink more than 10 and fewer than 3, these are just the voltage levels I measured closely. This pattern is pretty close to each blink corresponding to 0.1V above 2.8V.
Having the sensor on the driver is an obvious compromise, but one I will take for the majority of smaller lights. I have done them on the pill or body thermal shelf before, and it is not fun wiring those things up inside of a small pill.
I just put this driver into a copper sinner I sold for a friend. Outstanding. I loved the lucidrv drivers I was using before but this is a nice step up.
Insane moonlight mode and direct drive. Double tap mode. Just amazing. Now can we get something in 15mm?
Based on the double tap, I deleted turbo from the mode sequence and now I have moon>low>mid (3mA-380mA-1520mA), and double tap to access turbo. Then I set group B to a dummy group and only has low-high (380mA-2150mA) with PID set to 50°C.
I just installed this driver in my triple xpl BLF X6. I’m loving it, its pretty amazing.
I went with low 4.2mA, mid 380mA, high 3040mA, and double tap for even more turbo.
I’m surprised the little fet works so well. I haven’t taken amp readings but the flashlight gets just as bright if not brighter than the MTN-17DDm I just took out and that fet is much larger.
I also lowered the temperature from 60C default to 50C, and turned off memory.
I haven’t decided what to do with the second mode group yet.
Yes, it is very unfortunate that there are so few options for advanced E-Switch drivers.
This needs to change. To spur this, I’ll post a mod detailing how to easily convert any rear clicky light to an E-switch light using no special tools and commonly available hardware store components.
I have not looked at the one I have, still waiting on parts to use it. I did not realize there were e-switch contacts already there… Open mouth… insert foot!
Hiya. So is it very normal to have big differences in the firefly modes when comparing 3 different circuits? Can the firefly mode work if the single amc7135 channel is damaged?
I just installed this into my BLF Ti X6 tonight and I am having trouble with the brightness programming.
So I started fresh and deleted all the modes in mode group one, then one by one added modes and set them. I have currently set two modes which are moonlight (step 2) and 380mA (step 16). I have added a third mode and I am trying to set it at 3.04A (step 22) but for some reason when it steps up it does 16 steps, pauses for a moment then does two steps which are significantly brighter which I am assuming are the half turbo and full turbo and then starts stepping down again. It’s like its completely skipping steps 17-22…
Is there something I am doing wrong or has anyone else had this happen?