[WIP] 15mm PAM2803 w/ ATtiny13A rough layout / possibility

Mostly I’ll use any 15 mm version for presents/gaws for people that don’t use rechargables anyway. It would be nice for nimh cells though. At a minimum a low voltage signal could be done.

How much does the voltage from the buck ic drop as the cell(s) discharge? I know with one cell it falls right out the gate.

Yes, LVP (as cutoff) is meant for rechargeables only. It would be no good for primaries, as they are supposed to be drained fully.
If we get this to work and if we get a firmware for this (big ifs) then it should be implemented to make LVP optional.

Could you please rephrase this (language barrier here) as I’m not sure what you need. Which voltage in which condition?
And, err, boost ic, right?

Oops! Yes, with a single 1.5v cell the current supplied by the boost ic drops steadily. Where with two cells it maintains output for some time. Kind of a lazy question as I should just look it up myself from HJK’s test data. Sorry.

HQ, in the schematic does “L~~” represent driver Led~~ or mcpcb Led-?

Both, as they are the same electrical signal.

At source of the Fet (S) is the full negative output of the boost circuit.
The Fet is PWM controlled via gate and throttles the output.
So drain of the Fet (D) is the regulated negative output of the driver (L-).
On the driver PCB, D is connected to the LED- pad (of the driver).
This pad on the driver will be connected (by physical wire) with the LED- pad on the MCPCB (which is the (M)etal-©ore-PCB the LED is soldered on).

Hope that helps
HQ

Hmmm, when I look at your quote I think it might be a good thing that I take the time to consolidate all the information in a new thread.
I need an OP to do so and admit that I had up to now avoided to branch out. But I have several boost driver versions now and more planned and I need a clearer arrangement.

Yes please! I watch these boost driver threads with baited breath. I so need a good 15mm boost driver!

Honestly, it’s nice to know there is still interest… keeps me going on.
If it were only for myself, I would have wrapped it up with what I already have months ago.

Could you state what is “good” in your eyes?

Im keeping a close eye on this too.

I would be happy nanjg 102 with custom mode group selections a la guppydrv or blf a6 driver.

Still interested here too, watching this thread. :slight_smile:

I’m all for those small single AA lights that all need a 15mm boost driver. I’m looking for efficiency and good output on an eneloop/alkaline if possible, but even more for a more invisible PWM and a less medieval UI. My best example of a nice and good output AA boost driver is the Olight S15 driver (but I would like clicky operation instead of e-switch), but that is probably too good to be true.

For me. I’m looking for 1.5 volts usage, 14500 is not a big deal to me.
3 or more levels with a great moonlight mode (lower the better. 0.1 lumens? Less?). If super low moonlight need 4 levels to keep the spacing reasonable.

Option for no memory or hybrid memory. Off time, short latch time.

Lvp not a big deal for me since 14500 is optional. Max mode, 300mA or more? I’m not looking for a barn burner.

Programmable is nice. Invisible pwm.

15x4mm size? I want to put it in a Tain Aura titanium AA.

Led- same signal?
Wouldn’t that just bypass the FET entirely?
It looks like on this one the FET drain is going to led- and the FET source is going to boost driver led~~. Part of my confusion stems from the use of 3 different boost sample(Fastech, nanjg110, and the 15mm 2803 driver I’m messing with). Not a knock since it forces me to actually see what I’m looking at but sometime feels like a Gordian knot on 3 pages. The example above looks like it has the Fet drain to mcpcb led~~ and Fet source to boost led- so not same signal?

I think an updated op would help including schematic, latest oshpark board(s), and maybe an example for those that might be just stacking a controller board(simple pin/pad connection list).

Is this ready to use? The driver I bought from KD has next mode memory and the one fro Ebay looks identical.

HQ has a non LVP version ready and listed in post 84. Not much testing on it yet though.

Can I get the controller already programmed?

I have a couple of copper A1 on their way to me, it would be great to use this driver in them to get rid of the strobe in the original driver. Hope this will be available soon, thank you HarleyQuin.

I’m ordering some boards now but have no idea how easily this can be part swapped from a donor board. Probably a bit harder than a nanjg 105C. If you want to try it both the parts list and oshpark links are done. I believe it is usable with a donor mcu but not sure and to have off time switching you’d need a donor with that programmed in.

Ordered 1/2 dozen 2oz, .8 mm boards. We’ll see if they can be done by hand.

Looking on with interesr RBD. If anyone can it wiil be your good self.