Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

The settings allow a range of modes
So indeed using a mode suitable should not be a problem :slight_smile:

Right, I get that… but I am wondering if based on the LEDs/Driver combination there would be a sweet spot of greatest output for lowest power expenditure. And if so, then what that output might be.

Thanks again

I’d have 3500-4500lm in turbo for 1 minute or less. Then step down to max mode with 2000-2500lm
We can’t have more with SRK soupcan body.
Roche m170 is bigger and has more weight for his ~2600lm max mode

Caleb, Tom will probably shed some light on this
What I do know is that we aim at a ramping mode to choose besides the normal modes. And in my typical use I mainly set a light to a brightness I need (outside max, inside med for example) so the ramping would allow for minimum needed brightness in any situation thus prolonging use.

To get a feeling and gaining knowledge for this group buy, I just finished a 9xXP-L Hi SRK-clone mod that draws 24A (see the what did you mod today thread). It has warm white emitters so the (continuous) output is ‘only’ 4500 lumen (5600lm at start-up), but the power consumption is 90W. It is too hot to hold in (just measured) exactly two minutes (room temperature without air flow). Too hot to hold for a light with a good thermal path in my experience is the correct moment for a stepdown (a safe distance from damage). At the same current, with cool white or neutral XP-L emitters, this light would put out well over 6000 lumen, with added DTP-boards 7000. It feels that the body can handle that, but for a stock light to handle these amps and heat it requires a good design with no mistakes. We are aiming for that of course. And we’re making a 4 emitter light, not 9, so if we really want 6000 lumen OTF that requires very hard driven XP-L leds.
A stable continuous output (room temperature, no airflow) for a host like this appears 6A/2000 lumen to me, with airflow at least double that.

If I were to run a customer BG light, I would want the light to be running above 10000 lumens to make it extremely unique

This group buy is for a 4x parallel battery, 4 led light. You can not get 2500 lumen OTF out of any 3V type led.

Sounds great! Can’t wait to see what specs/price it will have.
I’ve seen the 10K mark mentioned before so surely there will be interest!

I have a UltraFire 7XML SRK clone that puts out more then 3000 lumen stock - guestimate from ceiling bounce with a lux meter. It is 5-8% dimmer then the massive TR-S700 that has been reviewed here at 3500 lumen.

I would love this BLF SRK to go up to more then 5k lumen on turbo and 3k+ on high. More then that would require 6V/12V and a more complicated battery setup which will raise the cost. That would be for a future 12V edition you can start your car with… :wink:

Well, 4x XP-L V6 @3A each will make ~5000 lumens at start. I think I’d be happy enough with that output. It would be ~41.5 watts to the four emitters. Can the host take that? I don’t know. I’ve never owned a SRK. I seriously don’t want it pushed so hard that reliability becomes an issue. And I don’t want any ~6V or ~12V emitters in this light! Maybe we can work out ~6V emitters in V2. :wink:

1 xpl nw for me plz

Yes I think maybe you guys are right, the 10k+ lumens obviously needs the series cell setup and so is out of the scope of this.

Maybe a different thread for a totally separate light with series cells and XHP, obviously we would be looking at a $150+ light. Maybe not so much interest on BLF :confused:

I’m still looking forward to this light, shaping up well for the original design plan :sunglasses:

I might re-sub to the thread in 6 months or so and let the wizards do their thing, no way we will have this for Christmas is my guess :slight_smile:
No point getting excited at the ideas just yet, just torturing myself!!!

heheh thanks for the trust
and indeed it will take some time :slight_smile:

OK, able to be continuously comfortably held in Brisbane summer night time temperatures (25C). :wink:

OP updated with

NEW POLL, community feeler:

Please vote and thanks in advance!

Im 100% with you brother.

go hard or go home :smiley:

The answer is simple: direct drive it to as many lumens as we can economically do. Implement thermal control instead of turbo timeout so it remains holdable at any ambient temperature.

I don’t care if it won’t do max output for more than 30-60 seconds before going back to lower output. There are many cases where that’s all I need it for.

+1

Yes fixedit +1
Except that maybe a user configurable turbo timer could prove more stable then thermal control. (maybe could ;))