Just a few pictures of the parts used in the ZY-T08 to convert it to series.
The stock pill is on the left.
The switch has been replaced on both these items to known good ones. The stock set up is on the left of the modded ones.
This part sits in the battery tube at the head end. The battery tube was machined 2.5mm deeper to accommodate the thickness of the board.
A couple of thing went pair shape on this mod. The drivers low voltage kicks in at to high a voltage so a driver swap will be needed. The locating dowel holes for the end board drilled through to the outside of the battery tube. Whoops and finally if I was to do this mod again I would purchase double sided bread board. This would make the mod a lot quicker to do and look neater.
Great work as usual Steve. Itās been so long I canāt remember how I rewired the back end of mine.
Iām not sure what you mean by ābreadboardā, but I use double sided copper clad circuit board. Itās really great to have for making contact boards and such. Pretty inexpensive at Aliexpress.
Built my first triple from a convoy s2+. Got parts on the way to give it a nice lighted tail cap. May even baked it to see what kind of colors I can coax out of it.
Dale that is Bad Azz!! Steve thatās Ingenious! Great ideas! Where do you get double sided bread board at? That is very handy stuff to (must) have around, boy the creative juiceās are flowing today!
The single sided I bought along time ago from Fasttech thinking it would come in handy one day after watching the likes of OL use it. Hopefully the following will be double sided. https://www.fasttech.com/products/3810200
I wanted an S2 pocket thrower. I dedomed a XP-G2 S4 2B from mtnelectronics and put it in an S2 with FET driver and smooth reflector also from mtnelectronics. With a 30Q at 4.13V, I got around 4.0A and 39,800cd measured at 6.05m with Tondaj LX-1010B. Big improvement over the stock S2 OP reflector at 23,400cd. In both cases I used the stock S2 centering ring and the focus seemed good on both.
I stacked another driver with four chips today. This one looks neat and tidy. I think Iām getting the hang of it. Before I started, I epoxied the chips on top nice and even with a dab of Arctic alumina. Pre tinning the little bent legs with flux and solder has the effect mascara does for lengthening lashes. After the chips were glued in place, most of the legs were already making contact. I barely had to touch them with the iron for a secure bridge.
Havenāt tested it yet. The negative wire contact is adjoined to one of the legs and I donāt want to risk soldering and removing test wires in case I desolder the leg. Iām getting my triple Luxeon board tomorrow which may require three separate neg. and pos wires each. Iāll test it then. I shouldnāt really be adding any extra chips with these rebels (750mA), 3A should be all a normal person would dare, but noooo, Ouchyfoot wants 4.5A.
If I damaged a couple chips in the process, Iām not even going to worry about it. I donāt know if its pushing the envelope, or plain old stupidity.
Tomorrow I may need to epoxy a small contact board on top of the chips to attach wires. I always mix up to much arctic alumina. Is it okay if I paint the legs of the stacked chips with it for strength?
I have my cheap Amazon JM07 that I keep in the truck, I felt that it needed some love! So, I changed the LED to a Noctigon mount XM-L2 4C and added a lighted ring to the tailcap. I went with 4 reds and 2 oranges so it would be easy to see in case it were to get put down during a roadside event. I really wish I had picked up 2 of these, they really are nice lights!
Driver and emitter removed from the battery tube side of the head. Pop off the black cover around the positive contact, then unscrew 2 tiny phillips screws holding the star to the backside of a shelf. The driver and star come out as a sandwich with the switch and micro USB connector between them.
The star is aluminum. I heated it up with a soldering iron while still attached to the rest of the sandwich. Then I removed the LED (cool-white XPL) with a tweezers and replaced it with an XPL HI 3D. With the smooth reflector this light is fairly throwy for its size.
I originally purchased this light with the intent of doing the same mod I recently did to a Sunwayman C10R: convert it to a small triple powered by an IMR 18500 and FET driver. Iād still like to do that mod, but unfortunately, I have a problem: The Bezel is threadlocked on with what must be a ton of threadlocker and I canāt remove it with normal methods. Iām thinking I might need a blowtorch to heat the bezel enough to melt the threadlocker, but am worried that may damage the anodizing. Iāve never tried the torch method to remove a stuck bezel.
I actually have a heat gun and a strap wrench. Unfortunately, I donāt think they are very good quality. My heat gun is a Radio Shack thing meant for stripping paint. I donāt think it gets hot enough to soften threadlocker. And my strap wrench doesnāt seem to provide all that much torque.
Maybe I should look on Amazon and see if I can find a better heat gun and strap wrench.
If it can melt paint then thatās too hot much heat to use on a light.
It may not even have thread lock on it, sometimes theyāve just been tightened too much and theyāre never easy to unscrew if the bezel is shallow as itās difficult to grip.
I had that problem with my Thorfire S70, I made some round jaws from a piece of wood that I could use in a bench vice to grip the bezel.
Complex problem, the tighter you grip that thin bezel the more snug it is on the threads. Your force is applying directly to the threads and making it even harder to get off!
3M Auto tape, itās double stick and itās the stuff they use to stick emblems on cars. Stick a piece down on a glass table top, or formica, and then press the bezel down onto it firmly to make the adhesive activate. Then twist it off. That works a lot of times on the smaller thin bezel lights.