Dale that is Bad Azz!! 
Steve that’s Ingenious! 
Great ideas! Where do you get double sided bread board at? That is very handy stuff to (must) have around, boy the creative juice’s are flowing today! 
The single sided I bought along time ago from Fasttech thinking it would come in handy one day after watching the likes of OL use it. Hopefully the following will be double sided.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3810200
Cool, thanks! This stuff could make things a little easier! Now just have to wait 2-3months to get it! 
:rage: 
I wanted an S2 pocket thrower. I dedomed a XP-G2 S4 2B from mtnelectronics and put it in an S2 with FET driver and smooth reflector also from mtnelectronics. With a 30Q at 4.13V, I got around 4.0A and 39,800cd measured at 6.05m with Tondaj LX-1010B. Big improvement over the stock S2 OP reflector at 23,400cd. In both cases I used the stock S2 centering ring and the focus seemed good on both.
I stacked another driver with four chips today. This one looks neat and tidy. I think I’m getting the hang of it. Before I started, I epoxied the chips on top nice and even with a dab of Arctic alumina. Pre tinning the little bent legs with flux and solder has the effect mascara does for lengthening lashes. After the chips were glued in place, most of the legs were already making contact. I barely had to touch them with the iron for a secure bridge.
And the current reading was, insert drum roll here, :question:
Haven’t tested it yet. The negative wire contact is adjoined to one of the legs and I don’t want to risk soldering and removing test wires in case I desolder the leg. I’m getting my triple Luxeon board tomorrow which may require three separate neg. and pos wires each. I’ll test it then. I shouldn’t really be adding any extra chips with these rebels (750mA), 3A should be all a normal person would dare, but noooo, Ouchyfoot wants 4.5A.
If I damaged a couple chips in the process, I’m not even going to worry about it. I don’t know if its pushing the envelope, or plain old stupidity.
Tomorrow I may need to epoxy a small contact board on top of the chips to attach wires. I always mix up to much arctic alumina. Is it okay if I paint the legs of the stacked chips with it for strength?
I have my cheap Amazon JM07 that I keep in the truck, I felt that it needed some love! So, I changed the LED to a Noctigon mount XM-L2 4C and added a lighted ring to the tailcap. I went with 4 reds and 2 oranges so it would be easy to see in case it were to get put down during a roadside event. I really wish I had picked up 2 of these, they really are nice lights!
Today I did an emitter swap on a Niteye EC-R16.
This is an EDC light that fits an 18350.
Driver and emitter removed from the battery tube side of the head. Pop off the black cover around the positive contact, then unscrew 2 tiny phillips screws holding the star to the backside of a shelf. The driver and star come out as a sandwich with the switch and micro USB connector between them.
The star is aluminum. I heated it up with a soldering iron while still attached to the rest of the sandwich. Then I removed the LED (cool-white XPL) with a tweezers and replaced it with an XPL HI 3D. With the smooth reflector this light is fairly throwy for its size.
I originally purchased this light with the intent of doing the same mod I recently did to a Sunwayman C10R: convert it to a small triple powered by an IMR 18500 and FET driver. I’d still like to do that mod, but unfortunately, I have a problem: The Bezel is threadlocked on with what must be a ton of threadlocker and I can’t remove it with normal methods. I’m thinking I might need a blowtorch to heat the bezel enough to melt the threadlocker, but am worried that may damage the anodizing. I’ve never tried the torch method to remove a stuck bezel.
Get one of these and a heat gun…
I actually have a heat gun and a strap wrench. Unfortunately, I don’t think they are very good quality. My heat gun is a Radio Shack thing meant for stripping paint. I don’t think it gets hot enough to soften threadlocker. And my strap wrench doesn’t seem to provide all that much torque.
Maybe I should look on Amazon and see if I can find a better heat gun and strap wrench.
If it can melt paint then that’s too hot much heat to use on a light.
It may not even have thread lock on it, sometimes they’ve just been tightened too much and they’re never easy to unscrew if the bezel is shallow as it’s difficult to grip.
I had that problem with my Thorfire S70, I made some round jaws from a piece of wood that I could use in a bench vice to grip the bezel.
Complex problem, the tighter you grip that thin bezel the more snug it is on the threads. Your force is applying directly to the threads and making it even harder to get off!
3M Auto tape, it’s double stick and it’s the stuff they use to stick emblems on cars. Stick a piece down on a glass table top, or formica, and then press the bezel down onto it firmly to make the adhesive activate. Then twist it off. That works a lot of times on the smaller thin bezel lights.
I wrapped 3M indoor stairway grip tape (the grey rubber stuff) around the bezel. I used a pliers with some more grip tape around the jaws to try to turn the bezel. I had the head anchored in a vise.
The sucker didn’t move at all. This method has worked for most lights. It will easily remove bezels with no threadlocker. I’ve even used it successfully to remove bezels with a moderate amount of threadlocker like the Jetbeam RRT01, and Jetbeam TCR01.
Unfortunately, this method didn’t work with the the EC-R16. Based on previous experience, I suspect they used a lot of threadlocker to anchor the bezel in place.
Good idea!
Infuriating to say the least, I like to take them apart even if I’m not doing any mods. :rage:
Or use the “TEVA”-method. In my case: clamp a (clean) hiking boot upside down between your thighs, press the bezel on the sole and turn. Especially thin bezels like that of my RRT-0 come loose quite easy.
If one makes me mad enough, I’ll drill holes in it and use a drill bit through the holes for leverage, fill the holes with JB Weld or something later. When I get onto getting it open, open it will!
I tried something similar. I used one of the rubber pads from the grocery store for opening stuck jars on the top of the bezel. Also tried sticking a large piece of the 3M indoor stairway grip tape on the bezel then pressing my palm into it and turning.
In my experience, these methods don’t provide nearly as much leverage as the tape around the edges of the bezel with pliers. And unfortunately, I had no success on this light with either method.