D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

I don’t recall exactly but it was over 200. I just counted what I still have. 147 left and I think I sent out somewhere between 70 and 80 in total already to those who asked. So, I’ll probably send 100 or so to Richard and then a few here and there to whoever needs them. Anyone I send them to will get more than they need giving the opportunity to pay it forward if another BLFer needs a few. If anybody wants some just send me a PM.

Edit
The bummer is Simon was supposed to send a bunch to djozz too. When I reminded him he said the equivalent of “oops”. He’s going to make some more though. It was my intention for him to just switch over to clear for all the future S2+ models to make these switches easier going forward. Waiting for confirmation on that.

Would love to get two if you still have extras. Sent a PM.

Replied :), got some heading your way! Looking forward to seeing some more successful mods.

Did you ever get this problem worked out? I’m afraid I might run into the same issue on my S2+ and I don’t need another reason to drink :).
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I did get it working… the board was bad. I moved all of the parts to another board and started in on the first one with an ohm meter. I found a short on the board that was still there with the components removed.

A 100 ohm bleeder worked for me. I have to check what resistors I used in the tail though.

Hey all. I just got confirmation from Simon that he intends to go forward with switching the S2+ metal switch inner seal to the clear version across the board but he want’s to do some testing first. Have any of you guys that I sent them to installed an tested them yet? Simon is looking for feedback on how well they work so if you’ve used them please let me know how well they work and if you see any potential issues. Post pictures if you could. Either in the thread here or a PM to me is fine. Also some news for those on the “other side of the pond” as they say. Simon had another batch made and shipped to djozz in Amsterdam.
Looking forward to hearing some (hopefully good) reports.

I meant to install them in my already-modded lights this weekend and I had too much family stuff going on. Didn’t find the time. I’ll get it done one evening in the next few days and report my findings here. I’ve also already sent some out to a few other folks who’ve been working on these lights, but they probably haven’t had time to arrive yet. I’ll follow up with them.

I completely understand. Family certainly comes before flashlights. No rush buddy just let me know how they work when you get around to it. I still have to get around to sending a pile of these off to Richard.

how does one get that metal tail cap apart? I can’t seem to separate the buttons.

Ok, I figured out that the parts do not separate… I feel really stupid at this point. So I pulled a working switch and LED ring from another light to try it and I just get no light out of it. I found that i had to put kapton tape on the 2 solder points for the wires that tie to the switch, the board lights fine. I am assuming that these will have to be really bright to work.

Picture with out switch button installed. No light gets thru, at all!

On the metal switches, it’s definitely more for show than function. It looks awesome, but it does require more light (higher power draw) and it only has a small viewing angle (from the top)

Btw where did you buy your yellow leds? Mine are more orange

Hello everyone .
I want 2 of these clear rubber seals , where can i get them from?
thanks

It should be these… The 0603’s are a PITA! I think I will go back to 0805’s.

Yellow LED

For Convoy S2+ i meant :stuck_out_tongue:

a user PM’d me this question

The S2+ will have just a little light showing through the ring around the metal switch. It will take more power draw for it to be seen vs a light with a silicone boot, and it will be mostly for looks, not as effective for locating the light. But man, it sure does look cool. :cowboy_hat_face:

Parts:

- Rev 5.1 ring for 14mm boots

- 0805 LEDs in your choice of color (the board has room for 6 on three channels of 2 LEDs each, but I usually use 3 in parallel).

- 0805 Resistors

- Clear gasket from Simon or nylon glove to waterproof.

  • Small amount of wire, preferably something small like 24awg or smaller

You do not need the switch, that come in the S2+ already.
The S2+ has that metal switch that I talked about, so it won’t take a silicone boot.

You will need to solder the LEDs and Resistors to the ring, then connect the vias (plated holes) to the standard switch connections in the light. It will not require moving the switch or spring to a new board. It would be helpful to have a power supply or something to test the ring outside of the light to get your brightness set without having to assemble/disassemble the light constantly.

Btw I will be making a new version of Rev5, with pots on the underside of the board, and 2 channels of 3 emitters instead of 3 channel’s of two. That will work better for how I have been using them.

Yes! That would be a welcome change for me too

Thanks Pd

It’s a little tougher outside the US a the moment but a bunch are on their way to Amsterdam yet as more requests keep coming in from different parts of the globe Simon is going to list them in his store soon. If you are ordering anything else from Simon’s Aliexpress store just send him a message with your order and he can throw them in with whatever else is being shipped.

Here we go, 16mm Rev5.2. One potentiometer per three emitters. Keep in mind potentiometers will probably need to be adjusted before installation in the light, as they will be hard to access once everything is soldered down.

Bridge point “P” (parallel) to put all six emitters in parallel under the same pot.
Bridge point “B” (Bypass) to bypass the pots and directly connect the LEDs to the Pos and Neg terminals (will need to use pots or resistors on the switch pcb, such as the Rev4 board.