Or use the “TEVA”-method. In my case: clamp a (clean) hiking boot upside down between your thighs, press the bezel on the sole and turn. Especially thin bezels like that of my RRT-0 come loose quite easy.
If one makes me mad enough, I’ll drill holes in it and use a drill bit through the holes for leverage, fill the holes with JB Weld or something later. When I get onto getting it open, open it will!
I tried something similar. I used one of the rubber pads from the grocery store for opening stuck jars on the top of the bezel. Also tried sticking a large piece of the 3M indoor stairway grip tape on the bezel then pressing my palm into it and turning.
In my experience, these methods don’t provide nearly as much leverage as the tape around the edges of the bezel with pliers. And unfortunately, I had no success on this light with either method.
After just building fourteen red XP-E2 lights for other people (hunters), I figured I would build a special one for myself. The deep red Luxeon rebel has always intrigued me, and I needed a change from the XPE2s. This is the first rebel I’ve had mounted on a direct thermal path SinkPad II. These little rebels are rated for max 750mA, so I had to drive them at 1.5A per emitter. As already posted, I stacked a Qlite drive for 4.5A to run my triple. SinkPad triple boards are set up for easy series hookup, but not so convenient for parallel. You also have to remember to grind the edges, or it won’t fit in a 20Mm tube.
I started by building a little contact board to run the 22AWG Teflon leads from the driver pads. This mod wouldn’t have worked with silicone wires as they are twice as thick.
Attaching the 26AWG Teflon LED wires.
I had to expand the hole in the SinkPad, and still barely got the wires through. It’s a good thing I thought to stick an insulater disc to the roof of the pill, as there is no more room left inside. It’s jammed in tight. There is no room to store any slack wire. A real tight fit.
All the wires had to be sized and stripped to the exact length at the emitter. Time to add a Carlco optic and screw this baby into somethin.
A red triple should always be installed in a red host. That’s class.
Yep! It’s red alright.
Still red. My cat seems to like it.
Still red
Here’s the 18350 version for those who prefer a shorty.
Q: Why did Ouchyfoot build himself a red flashlight?
A: He has absolutely no idea.
I “modded” the new Trustfire TR-J20 and gained 1000 lumens plus a few. Easy peasy mod, as it were. My Trustfire 32650’s came in from Richard, they bested the BASEN 26650’s by that 1000 lumens. Sometimes the right cell choice is HUGE, taking this one from 17.64A to 21.71A at the tail.
The UCLp lens gained me just shy of 400 lumens as well. So for a lens swap and the right cells I’m up 1400 lumens. I’m taking it!
Must admit I’m really liking that yellow gold tailcap. Todays mod was another s2+. This one with A6 driver, triple CU spacer and triple V2 1A. This was a first in that the triple was huge. I tried the carclo and multiple hosts all nogo. First glass only triple. A little too cool for my liking but it certainly fills a room. Heading outside now. Also finished one that did nothing but cause problems.