FYI, a few weeks ago I checked LG HC35C1 led (=a few years old, the newest gen. is HC35C4, impossible to obtain for me) for hot dedoming and in petrol, in both methods the dome would not come off in one piece and bits of silicon remained over the die. The phosfor was pretty solid though, it allowed scraping off remaining bits of silicon with a toothpick,but not all, tiny bits were left on the die.
Any luck, Mitko?
Getting ready to build a new batch of lights and wish I could get my hands on some of the original XP-G2’s or something similar. If not, I might have to just use the XP-L HI.
Well by default its something like S2, havent tested it in details with the dome on, it is capable of maitaining 4.5amps ( with a single battery and a fet dd driver), dedomes pretty clean though.
unfortunately when dedomed it performance drops dramaticly, its like 40% weaker than those upgraded new S4 emitters( 145kmcds vs 100kcds in a C8 host)…excuse me, but even a dedomed XPE2 performs better
It has a potential, i am pretty sure Samsung will develope those in future but for now those aint suitable for out throwing needs 
Better not, try dedomed V6 instead, it outperforms any HI by 25-30%, or even a dedomed U3
Just curious, have you noticed real-world difference in your builds? I understand that V6 should out-perform the current highest binned HI’s (V2 or V3?), but dedoming is going to reduce overall output of the V6, no?
After reading through this thread, I came away with the impression that there’s no real advantage to dedoming a XP-L (as opposed to using a XP-L HI)
Ofc i did m8 especialy considering throw, those builds are mainly used in a real world situations, mainly hunting: many of them, in lotsa different hosts
The mentioned thread is old, just a build that i made today: actualy those were 2 flashlights: both in B158host, one with XPL HI ( v2 3b)one with a dedomed V6 1A, the first gave 170k mcds( at 5.5amps), the second 215k( at 5.6amps)- the reason i made the first one with XPL HI is that fella hunter will swap the pill inside randomly with another pill( ir based) so i presumed HI in that situation would be better, he could simply damage the dedomed emitter occasionaly
Try out V6 1A from MNT or KD , they dedome pretty okay( not like V6 2D or V6 0d from FT) youll see yourself the difference, they “sing” paired with a nice fet dd driver and a 30q/vtc5 battery
Good to know, thanks!
One of the lights I’m getting ready to build is a B158 with the new FET+1 from MTN and a 30Q. Also putting together some UF-1504s with similar components. How’re you liking the B158?
And how do you prefer to dedome - hot or gas/petrol?
Reposted here from my sales thread.
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OK, here are the results:
"Old" XP-G2
3.87 vF @ 3.9A
"New" XP-G2
3.78v vF @ 3.9A
I tested two samples of each, and they are both within 0.1v of each other. I see that much variation or more from different emitters from the same piece of tape. I also only tested at 3.9A, so things may be much different at higher of lower amps.
I am not kidding when I say that this does not look green to me. It really doesn't. The bare LED doesn't, and I put a lens up to it and shined it on the wall and it doesn't look green. I asked Lisa and a friend that is here today if they thought one looked different than the other (not knowing which one was the new or old) and they couldn't really tell.
Here is a macro shot of the new and old (note that there is some perspective shift):
New
Old
Even despite the perspective shift (there is some) you can tell that the die size is slightly different.
So, for the small sample size (only 2 emitters from 2 batches):
- Green hulk dedome: BUSTED
- Higher vF: BUSTED
- Bigger die size: VERIFIED
Thanks for the test but I am not sure what you want to tell with it?
Are you actually want to tell that new XP-G2 is good in your opinion?
It seems like you put some kind of lacquer on dedomed emitters (that kind of treatment leads to bit cooler tint) Vinz(famos German modder) called that treatment “diamond treatment”.
So RMM… You claim that new XP-G2 is not green when de domed? I just wish to know if anyone here on BLF agrees with you on that?
IMHO it has greenest beam projection I ever seen In my life.
Well i have to argee with RMM, i got 20 of those in here, dedomed like 4 of them( chemicaly, i an hot gas)
Made that photo especialy for that topic
From the left to right:
First is default Olight M3X( from a batch that used V5 1A, my personal shelf queen), the second is C8 ( Ar IOS glass, the new XPG2), third is again C8 ( AR IOS glass, dedomed V6 0D), the last is default M2x( dedomed V6 1a)
Its maybe your overstayed in the gas m8.
Even if they have greenish tint it aint an issue for me, its even good for hunting, ovserving at nights on a long term base
The problem like RMM said is the bigger core and higher vF
Well, I am not going to say that it is as good as the old one. Even if the lumens are the same, if the die is bigger the intensity will be slightly less. I just don't think that the sky is falling and I definitely didn't get the green dedomed tint that everyone is talking about. But we really don't know if we are talking about the same batch, do we? Nope, so it really is just another data point and doesn't mean that it covers all emitters.
I don't use gas. Gas definitely makes more emitters turn green than anything else I've seen. It's heat and a knife. You can do with them what you want, but don't dump chemicals all over the phosphor then get mad when the tint shifts.
Mitko,
I don’t know am I crazy or you?
But you personally posted this picture of dedomed XP-G2:
I can do de doming in 5 minutes with solvent, I did all types of de doming mentioned on BLF and I responsibly saying that new XP-G2 S4 2B is GREEN upon de doming and lower performer than his older brother (old production process)
Not yours m8, that was for luminarium iaculator
In this case i used gas , even so as you can see they are yellowish, even hot dedomed they are same.
Yet you have a point here, :
luminarium iaculator
Well, there could be a greenish tint but believe me default M2X( before they started using V2 1A)/M3X looks way more greenish
RMM and Mitko,
I think you have been drinking something…
I am talking about XP-G2 S4 2B
I really don’t know what you de domed but you did not de domed XP G2 S4 2B emitter.
You are respective member but I got to tell you that you are terribly wrong here.
There is no tint shift if done properly with solvent(gas, thinner and other).
Yes, S4 2B. And I don't drink. 
Realy? You americans make extremely good Jack Daniels, one can have a 50ml just before bed time, its a sin not to test that m8, hornestly
I am doing exacly this atm, hehe
Anyway, lets hope those Cutters S4s to be from the old ones, or we have to stick to U4/V6 emitters till something else emerge …
Cheers
Mitko,
I don’t know what to think about you right now… I mean we talked about XP-G2 S4 2B emitter all the time in this thread.
Several people including you confirmed(you even posted pictures) that new production XP-G2 S4 2B has green tint shift.
I think that RMM and Mitko are terrible wrong.
I know what I know and I know what I see… Nobody can convince me in opposite.
Chill out m8, ( have a drink or smth :sunglasses: ) , as i am sure we all agree that the tint isnt the big issue here: yet the throw drop is
Indeed there is a tint shift comparing the old IOS S4 2B stock with the new
Btw Digikey also have XPG2 S4 stock with a prod. date september 2015( several reets, both E1 and E2 kits) but nobody could be sure what exacly are those untill they are tested
Mitko,
Sorry but I can’t chill out on foolishness… Who agrees that it is not big issue?
I will tell You difference among them
B158 340 kcd (old S4 2B)
B158 200 kcd (new S4 2B)
UF1503 250kcd (old S4 2B)
UF1503 170kcd (new S4 2B)
Lumapower turboforce 350kcd (old S4 2B)
Lumapower turboforce 220kcd (new S4 2B)
Once again I responsibly claiming that batch I tested and send to Djozz (he tested them but he did not de domed them) has terrible green tint (hulk color) and significant lux output loos.
I can say that I do “gas dedoming” 99% of the time…
Its much easier and pain free than other dedoming methods, and yes, tints usually shift a lot to the yellow spectrum… but, the last few XP-G2 S42B dedomes Ive had done been a whole lot greener than usual…
Maybe using hot dedome method remains the same… maybe the problems with XP-G2 dedoming (apart from less throw due to bigger die size) only affects gas dedoming…
Still. Its a bit of a pain…
But currently I am still dedoming XM-L2 U3 1A’s and 1D’s with barely any green shift at all with no problems… Sticking with those for the foreseeable future, as XP-G3 doesnt seem viable for dedoming either…