Hi,
there are two O-Rings. One on the threads of the pill and one between bezel and the glass.
Here are some closeups.
I got the screws out now. The replaced screws have a slightly smaller head and fit without touching the pill.
Regards
Kenjii
Thanks Kenjii, right amount of o-rings at the right spots, that’s good news. EDIT: Oh boy, I think I read what I wanted to read…BUT:no o-ring between optic and glas?How is the optic kept in place? Does the glas make direct contact with the optic?
Well, positive trace goes almost to the edge, they should’ve kept a bigger distance from where the screws go at least.
The smaller screws look like a better fit, but based on those closeups it does seem the + side is right under the screw head… as long as that solder mask holds up it would be OK, but that is still rather poor. All it would take is for as screw to be put in crooked or a screw with a rough underside to the head to cut through the mask and create a short!
Ok, now there just was a short on the side where the messed up screw sat…. so i know why that screw was not screwed in completely.
I think screws were never a consideration in designing that MCPCB. Usually you have optics with 4 legs and the better way, IMHO, is to have the pins a bit longer to protrude past the MCPCB into holes in the shelf locking everything in place and preventing rotation.
So that’s a unit they send to someone to do a review. I think I’ll pass.
The joy of getting my shipping notice this morning quickly evaporated…
Will the light still be safe to use as long as one uses a protected battery?
There are always ways to work around that kind of issues, but I think we all would prefer not having to go those ways.
Hi,
i think this is a preproduction sample …
New ceiling bounce (30 sec.)
Efest Purple IMR 1537 Lumens
AW IMR 1382 Lumens
Tensai/Enerzig IMR 1696 Lumens.
That new battery from Tensai is great. Lumens went down much slower.
Regards
Kenjii
Could be QC is part of the reason for price differential between Manker and Astrolux versions. I’d be curious to see inside of Manker version to see what else is changed besides driver.
What kind of battery,18650 or not?
All 18350. I have no 18650 battery tube.
i just came home and took that nice little thing out of the box 
i hope my wife falls asleep soon so i can enter the mancave 
tomorrow is family BBQ including 2 1/2 hours ride one direction - might take longer than i expected to give you guys an instant test 
i am sorry
Some Pics of my unit:
(BBQ ummmmmm! :laughing: )
Where did you get those Tensai batteries?
Hey guys - I´m back from the cave playing with the Astrolux S41 
( its 1:40 am - video and pix follow tomorrow)
some thoughts about my sample (nichia LED)
- WOW - nice and small
- good build quality, no dings and scratches
- smaller than short BLF A6
- head diameter is 22 mm
- build order: bezel - Oring - AR coated thin Lens - quad optic - Oring on the head - massive copper head
- no extra isolation disc between screws (a bit too big imho) and the copper MCPCB
- LED wires are 22AWG
- MCPCB has a direct thermal path
- driver retaining ring was a bit loose and unscrewed with the tube (that was tight)
- driver IS the BLF A6 (with 4/7 modes + discos)
- nice tint
- better beam than my triple A6 (XP-L HI)
- much lower low than my triple A6
- switch PCB is the illuminated design, but not populated
- double springs in tailcap to reduce resistance
some quick&dirty numb3rs (as shown on the luxmeter, usually 10-15% high)
| S41 | 2450 Lm | 12 A | PS 4,1 V |
| 1520 Lm | 5,6 A | IMR18350 | |
| 2100 Lm | 9,2 A | 30Q | |
| BLF A6 3D bridged | 1700 Lm | 5,6 A | PS 4,1 V |
| A6 (3x XP-L HI) bridged | 3250 Lm | 10,1A | PS 4,1 V |
| Astrolux SS stock | 1450 Lm | 4,4 A | PS 4,1 V |
| EC11 | 940 Lm | 2,8 A | IMR18350 |
Powersupply was set to 4,1V (its a 30V/20A PS)
other lights to compare (my lightbox is not good)
more asap
good night my friends! ;)
Tensai/Enercig 18350
http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/l/enerpower-18350-imr-limn-700mah-flat-top-battery.html
Hi
Can u give me your order number?
it won’t cause short out.