D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

This thread is pure win, thx Pilotdog68 and contributors, i realized i need an amber gold lighted tailcap on my beside table torch more than anything in the world.

I finally got the clear gaskets in the mailbox, and more than I ould ever expect: 140!

I put one in my red S2+ and can finally see the red tail light! :slight_smile: The light has the driver scavenged from my blf-x5 so the driver timing is prepared for the lighted tail. I used the same tail resistance as the blf-x5/6 to retain normal driver performance, but with 6 red leds. Nevertheless it draws only 0.78mA. So the leds are pretty dim and the metal tailcap does not help with that: works as a dim locator light for use at night, but nothing spectacular. I will swap the resistor to get to 5mA and a bit more light (and 10 days runtime on a fresh 18500 cell). For now:

Excellent! :student: Thanks for the quick feedback djozz. I know it takes more power to see that glow in the S2+ because of the switch design but I’m happy that it works. It was a pretty simple change so it just seemed like an easy thing to ask Simon to do to help accommodate. If anyone encounters a problem with the function of the clear switch seals please let me know.

These clear gaskets were send to me to be distributed among BLF-members from Europe who have black gaskets in their S2+ lights and would like clear ones for building a lighted tailcap. (as I understand, Simon will use the clear ones for all new S2+ hosts that he will sell)

Now that I have so many, I do not think I will ever get rid of them, and because it is no more expensive to send them worldwide than it is to send them inside the EU, I will send them everywhere for shipping costs plus envelope (€1.50 worldwide).

(PM me with your address and your reasonable number of gaskets, I will reply with my Paypal)

The rings in this sheet of silicon are much larger than the black gaskets that is to be swapped. But you can rip off the center and outer part and be left with the exact gasket as the black one. So I had no problems with the swap.

(I used the 16mm 6 led lighted ring with a thin cardboard ring around the ring of leds to prevent shorts with the tail-section, even though it is anodised on the inside)

Now that what I call paying forward! :slight_smile: Very cool of you. I still have a handful as well but only for US residents as shipping outside the US is just ridiculous so this is an excellent option for non US residents. A tip of the hat to you. :face_with_monocle:

Cheers

Just wanted to drop you a note PD that I have followed your builds here or where ever I’ve found your info going back to the early build for the Krono’s project.
I always thought that lighted tail switch in the X6 X5 was so fantastic and I’ve tried repeatedly to follow your simple directions and all I get is failures mostly I think do to shaky hand old guy syndrome,
However the reason I wanted to say something to you is because I was one of those knuckleheads that got involved in that stupid CPFItalia Cometa thing and bought two of those dangerous lights, but sitting here one night looking at that darn light it dawned on me that they had your new revision dual Blue LED switch so immediately swapped it into the Kronos and wow, now that box set is absolutely perfect, those switches look so good compared to the original single led switch, so anyhow, if anything I justified my buying those two stupid Cometa junk lights and decided I just paid $40 each for your new switch and feel alright about that… Ha
I’ll keep trying to build them but since BG has them I sure wish they’d put them out for sale since I’d buy a half dozen to go in all my alums also. So thanks for all your amazing work PD…!!

Thanks for the comment T18. I had seen it in one of the Cometa threads but thanks for posting here too. I’m glad they brought a silver lining to your Cometa experience

Hey PD, have you told T18 about the embossing tool soldering station? That is a huge help if hand soldering is difficult!

Is that what you use matt? I still use mine. I was considering getting a proper rework station, but I’m not building as much as I used to.

Yup, still use it… I am having the same thought. I would like to be able to change 1 component at a time and that is almost an all or nothing tool I have also thought about adding a fan speed control to it as well and forging on… I like the looks of the station that can be modded for better control. Have built a bunch of stuff with it and it just keeps going!

On mine the air inlets are all on the end. Sometimes I cover up half of them with my hand and that slows the air speed down. It also makes the temps go up, which can be useful but you have to be careful it doesn’t start to melt from the inside out.

You bet PD, and yes had to really look hard for that silver lining but once discovered I was literally thrilled, I don’t know how I can go so goofy over a couple switches but certainly did, and after the swap sat here with the lights out and switches on and just enjoyed ha ha ha
Thanks for the mention Matt regarding a embossing tool soldering station,
I think I get what your referring to, sort of a rework station, surface mount work, heat gun etc, frying pan.
If you happen to have a link and the time I’d sure appreciate a point in the direction,
I believe the rework station I saw was at a place called All Spec, not positive if I’m thinking down the correct lines here.
Anyhow, no wonder Simon wouldn’t sell me a few metal S2+ switches a few months ago, I sure haven’t been keeping up and just noticed the S2 work, wow, they sure do look good,
Simon’s next release will probably be sporting some really nice upgrades, the S2S+1

My reflow iron… search for DARICE EMBOSSING MULTI-PURPOSE HEAT TOOL, 320 WATT NEW on ebay…

Don’t laugh to loud, works great! Thanks PD!

Thanks Matt, I was just looking at some rework stations, and a lot of accessories that I have no clue about, like assorted little cups that appear to go over the part and hot air heats the part up and melts the solder or so it seems, So laugh at you Matt.? Now that’s funny,
I have a lot to learn yet and really glad you mentioned this,
I’ll take a look at this one in the morning,
All I need is a decent beginners station, maybe something that can be upgraded as my skills improve, don’t know.
Thank You Matt…

I build a nichia light today with nanjg 105c and nlite firmware. I used Rev 5.1 LTC board. Lightning works fine…but when I tap I cant switch modes. The main emitter shut down when I tap. I didn’t use a bleeder and no resistor on the ltc board, just 2 leds in parallel with a bridged R1 spot. Maybe this problem is known and somebody can help?

Thank you!

Edit: I found another interesting detail…when I use a battery with voltage < 3,9V it works. >4V did’nt work. What do you think?

sounds like the MCU is never shutting down. Try a bleeder.

Finally i got all the parts and gave myself a crack modding.

the resisters and SMD are tinny and it hurts my eye welding.

Destroyed 2 LEDs while over welding and lost 2 resistors dropped on ground but successfully put together.


http://imgur.com/xEfICOJ


Imgur

Looking good! Well done. :slight_smile:

why do you think a bleeder could help?