D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Now that what I call paying forward! :slight_smile: Very cool of you. I still have a handful as well but only for US residents as shipping outside the US is just ridiculous so this is an excellent option for non US residents. A tip of the hat to you. :face_with_monocle:

Cheers

Just wanted to drop you a note PD that I have followed your builds here or where ever I’ve found your info going back to the early build for the Krono’s project.
I always thought that lighted tail switch in the X6 X5 was so fantastic and I’ve tried repeatedly to follow your simple directions and all I get is failures mostly I think do to shaky hand old guy syndrome,
However the reason I wanted to say something to you is because I was one of those knuckleheads that got involved in that stupid CPFItalia Cometa thing and bought two of those dangerous lights, but sitting here one night looking at that darn light it dawned on me that they had your new revision dual Blue LED switch so immediately swapped it into the Kronos and wow, now that box set is absolutely perfect, those switches look so good compared to the original single led switch, so anyhow, if anything I justified my buying those two stupid Cometa junk lights and decided I just paid $40 each for your new switch and feel alright about that… Ha
I’ll keep trying to build them but since BG has them I sure wish they’d put them out for sale since I’d buy a half dozen to go in all my alums also. So thanks for all your amazing work PD…!!

Thanks for the comment T18. I had seen it in one of the Cometa threads but thanks for posting here too. I’m glad they brought a silver lining to your Cometa experience

Hey PD, have you told T18 about the embossing tool soldering station? That is a huge help if hand soldering is difficult!

Is that what you use matt? I still use mine. I was considering getting a proper rework station, but I’m not building as much as I used to.

Yup, still use it… I am having the same thought. I would like to be able to change 1 component at a time and that is almost an all or nothing tool I have also thought about adding a fan speed control to it as well and forging on… I like the looks of the station that can be modded for better control. Have built a bunch of stuff with it and it just keeps going!

On mine the air inlets are all on the end. Sometimes I cover up half of them with my hand and that slows the air speed down. It also makes the temps go up, which can be useful but you have to be careful it doesn’t start to melt from the inside out.

You bet PD, and yes had to really look hard for that silver lining but once discovered I was literally thrilled, I don’t know how I can go so goofy over a couple switches but certainly did, and after the swap sat here with the lights out and switches on and just enjoyed ha ha ha
Thanks for the mention Matt regarding a embossing tool soldering station,
I think I get what your referring to, sort of a rework station, surface mount work, heat gun etc, frying pan.
If you happen to have a link and the time I’d sure appreciate a point in the direction,
I believe the rework station I saw was at a place called All Spec, not positive if I’m thinking down the correct lines here.
Anyhow, no wonder Simon wouldn’t sell me a few metal S2+ switches a few months ago, I sure haven’t been keeping up and just noticed the S2 work, wow, they sure do look good,
Simon’s next release will probably be sporting some really nice upgrades, the S2S+1

My reflow iron… search for DARICE EMBOSSING MULTI-PURPOSE HEAT TOOL, 320 WATT NEW on ebay…

Don’t laugh to loud, works great! Thanks PD!

Thanks Matt, I was just looking at some rework stations, and a lot of accessories that I have no clue about, like assorted little cups that appear to go over the part and hot air heats the part up and melts the solder or so it seems, So laugh at you Matt.? Now that’s funny,
I have a lot to learn yet and really glad you mentioned this,
I’ll take a look at this one in the morning,
All I need is a decent beginners station, maybe something that can be upgraded as my skills improve, don’t know.
Thank You Matt…

I build a nichia light today with nanjg 105c and nlite firmware. I used Rev 5.1 LTC board. Lightning works fine…but when I tap I cant switch modes. The main emitter shut down when I tap. I didn’t use a bleeder and no resistor on the ltc board, just 2 leds in parallel with a bridged R1 spot. Maybe this problem is known and somebody can help?

Thank you!

Edit: I found another interesting detail…when I use a battery with voltage < 3,9V it works. >4V did’nt work. What do you think?

sounds like the MCU is never shutting down. Try a bleeder.

Finally i got all the parts and gave myself a crack modding.

the resisters and SMD are tinny and it hurts my eye welding.

Destroyed 2 LEDs while over welding and lost 2 resistors dropped on ground but successfully put together.


http://imgur.com/xEfICOJ


Imgur

Looking good! Well done. :slight_smile:

why do you think a bleeder could help?

Theory: It sounds like whatever current your tailcap ia drawing, it’s more than the voltage divider resistors on the tailcap allow through, so the extra current is being pulled through the mcu itself, and it’s enough power to keep the mcu awake, and not thinking the switch was ever pushed. A bleeder should divert enough power past the mcu so that it functions normally.

Hi all!

I just received the new Astrolux S41, and for what i believe i have come across in the long thread dedicated to this light, someone mentioned the tailcap PCB is ready for lighting but not populated.

If someone managed to get it working, i would be happy to see a component list and little how-to… :innocent:

Thanks

Quick report - got a tailcap working perfectly in a Convoy S2+.

Notes:

  • You want to order 0.8mm boards, not the standard 1.6mm. The normal ones are too thick and the tailcap assembly doesn’t sit right (too far from metal switch, too thick to tighten down the retaining ring more than a half turn).
  • I used a 47 ohm bleeder on the driver and 400 ohms on the tailcap. You definitely want a 1:6 ratio or lower (going off what someone earlier in the thread pointed out - thank you!). The 450 ohm total is necessary to see the low-efficiency red LEDs through the rubber. This means the battery will drain in about two weeks but I’m ok with this, can always loosen the tailcap to lock out.
  • On the MTN-17ddm driver, you want to put the bleeder before the diode (NOT across the capacitor). I actually ended up using a 1/8 through-hole resistor and soldering it between the spring and the ground ring since my SMD resistors were not quite long enough for that and the 1/8w doesn’t interfere with anything. Modes work fine for me.

I’ll post some pictures when I have some time to get the camera out. Thank you for all the hard work PD86 and everyone else!

Hi! I want to do this lighted tailcap in an X6. I found that I need the v5.1 version for 14mm boot, and I ordered high amp tailcap board too because it will be a triple XP-L setup. But what size leds I need under the boot to fit nicely? 0805 or 0603? Everything else is clear for me. Thank you!

I have made them with both sizes of LED’s. I think technically it is designed for 0805’s. If nobody answers with authority I can measure the pads tonight. Might check the info in the thread, should be in the section that introduces the board.