No word on the copper version yet?
Some pics…
Mine also arrived today :+1:
Two pics for size comparison
Colour tint is quite nice; It´s more on the cooler side compared to the Astrolux A01 and even the Lumintop tool copper also with the Nichia 219B LED (here on the right side; on the left the M01)
That´s the only negative aspect of the M01; It seems all of them has this issue; There is no exact point where low starts; It goes on and out randomly by pressing or knockin on the head by a certain point; In the TLF someone called it “Disco Mode” 
But all in all It´s O.K. I can live with this issue
High/low it’s all in the feel. All the way in for high slight turn out for low. Off; keep screwing till off no flicker. So far everyone I have shown likes very much. I am not a fan of onboard chargers but a definate positive with the MO1. I carry both versions and no problems. Nice little light!
Flashlight arrived today - nice tint but unfortunately only one mode.
I tighten it all the way and it’s not enough to engage the micro switch in the head 
I have a CooYoo quantum and the audible click when going to high is something you can’t miss.
I tried to swap heads and bodies but the titanium of the CooYoo won’t match with the stainless of the Astrolux.
They both share loose threads and flickering behavior when turning on - you need to turn quite a bit to get stable output.
You also need to turn back more than “common” to make sure it’s not turning on in the pocket.
Waiting for Banggood to respond.
I received one of each kind today.
I first tried the cree version and it was really hard to select the low mode without flickering. Also the o-ring was really sticky so turning wasn’t easy. After lubing the o-ring the mode selection worked much better.
The nichia version had much rattle because the pill was loose. After tightening it and lubing the o-ring it was still pretty flickery. But this was because the clicky pad wasn’t soldered flat to the pcb. There was some space between.
After fixing this I’m satisfied with both.
As expected the nichia is a bit dimmer. Even tough I’m not a cool white fan, I have to say I like it more than neutral/warm white in 10180 lights.
Edit: I will receive one of each kind again probably tomorrow. Let’s see what I have to fix there
jetbeam mini ordered on sale
Great, You’ll be happy.
Keep in mind, I’m not trying to knock the Astrolux, but it appears a couple people , including myself, have had to resolder the switch plate.
Also, a few people have also said they had to tighten the pill in the head on their units.
These items lend to the theory of poor quality control.
I have messed around a lot with my Astrolux lights and am still very unhappy with the looseness in the head that is part of the reason for the
way it acts so finicky trying to get into the low mode.
I also believe the switch plate is not as “strong” as the other brand lights and thus has less leeway between modes.
Those that don’t have other 10180 lights to compare too probably don’t notice the difference, but it is definitely there.
Have a great day.
I got mine yesterday - whilst it does have a little play in the twist switching it isn’t enough to concern me. Thankfully it won’t need any tinkering to get it working like some people’s have. Because I wouldn’t have a clue….
Anyway, I’m not going to corrode/tarnish it like I did with my copper A01 (though I’ve seen some lovely acid-etching on the knife topic posts over the last few days - hmmm, could look goooood), but I will knock up a little suede and SS bead lanyard for it a bit later. I’ll stick up some pics once I’ve done it.
Here you go.
And one with the gnarly old big brother……
that looks very nice scrumpypaul!
Cheers Martin - I really like both of them.
SP
How do you reaolder the switch plate? After a week it came loose already. Are the 10180 batteries protected?
No protection on these little batteries.
Use needle nose tweezers to unscrew the module in the head - then it’s easier to re-solder the plate.
i jumped into the mancave and made a short video…
(your questions are answered i hope ;))
Thanks for the video. Gotta say I’m rather disappointed to see how basic the LED driving circuitry is… actually no driver at all, just a resistor for each level. I guess this explains how this light sells for so much less than similar lights like CooYoo but certainly not the best from an efficiency point of view.
thank you for the video
As far as I know every 10180 light has exactly this circuit.
I can’t speak to all the 10180 lights, but I took my Cooyoo Quantum apart to swap to a NW emitter and it definitely had some active circuitry.
Here’s a photo snagged from another thread:
You’re right! I took apart my Black Water Kite.al again and it does indeed look like on your picture. I just didn’t remenber it like that. I’ll do a runtime comparison…