Yea, but might be a way of keep'n the PWM clock running? We talked about methods of doing indicator LED blinks in a power saving mode. You can keep the WDT running, I believe, and if you set the frequency lower, could wake up on occasion then a blink for example to show low voltage, then back to sleep. Don't think it would take much power, not as much as keep'n the full processor running all the time. Haven't had time to pursue this though. The best use of it would be for reducing output in standby mode, but if it takes too much power, than not good. I believe you make good use of this though in the Rocher F6 driver, maybe not in standby, not sure.
Last I checked, at least on tiny13 (for fancy lighted tailcaps), I recall there being no way to keep PWM running while asleep. It uses the main processor as its clock source, normally, so when that clock is off it means PWM is off too. You might be able to do it with an external clock source, but we don’t have one.
About standby mode, I don’t recall exactly what I did in Ferrero Rocher to dim the indicators in standby mode, but I think it involved abusing a bug in the attiny. IIRC, it’s not supposed to do that. It normally sets the pin high or low (on or off), but I found a third state which produced a much dimmer glow. I’d have to check the sources and reference manual to remember what exactly it’s doing.
Could someone explain to me now I can adjust the firmware to include a mode with 0 output. I have a lucidrv driver from dr jones and I can program one of the mode groups to include zero output. Idk if it is a bug or if it was intentional, but I’ve found it works great for some of the hunting lights I’ve been making. This way the hunter can turn the light off and on with a quick noiseless tap.
In bistro-tripledown, you should be able to get most of the way there by adding a 0,0,0 entry to the ramp tables then adding that mode index to a mode group somewhere. However, that likely won’t turn the light completely off. The third power channel seems stuck in “fast” PWM mode, which lights up a little bit even at 0.
Alternately, you could define a special no-output mode, assign it a number, put that number into a mode group somewhere, and add a special case to handle it (like how strobe works). It would just need to set all three PWM pins to stop sending a signal. Maybe even put the MCU to sleep to reduce power use more. This will likely require looking a few things up in the attiny reference manual though…
Eeeeek… Sounds a little too deep for me at the moment. However, the partially off may work well enough. It sounds like its just a matter changing some code that already exists. I may give that a try.
Ok. Can I change the first ramp entry from 3,0,0 to 0,0,0? and if I want to put that into a mode group, I would enter a 1 where I want it to appear. So I could change the first mode group to 1,40,0,0,0,0,0,0 and that would give me one faint glow mode and one high mode. Am I correct?
If I left the moon settings as is, could I then use the moon config toggle to rather toggle the false off mode? I’m trying to think what to call a fake off mode:) have others talked about this concept for hunters or others needing an off without a click?
Bistro-tripledown is intended for attiny25, but after verifying the hardware works you’ll probably want to change some things in the code. It’s still configured more for testing at the moment, and less for actual use. You may also want to re-calculate the ramp, depending on how bright your host is.
I would like to use this driver in a dual switch light (modified Courui D01)! Control the modes with the e-switch and on off via rear switch with mode memory.
Ok, so I built a board and tested it with a working rear clicky firmware. All fine and working
Then I uploaded the new dual switch firmware and soldered a small cable to the outer ring.
I connected it to a battery and it starts in direct drive (=the highest mode).
If I touch the otc pad (=pin 2) with the small cable it should change modes right?
Anyway, nothing happens. I tried a few other pins on the attiny, but only the fet pin (=pin 3) did lower the output and as soon as I removed the small cable it was at direct drive again.
I tried both firmware versions and also tried it with and without the otc cap, because this is not needed in a dual switch light right? But no difference, I can’t get it to switch modes.
Here is a pictures of the driver, sorry it is a little bit dirty looking now.