The parts list is the same as the A17DD, with the addition of a 7135 chip.
If you are using in an e-switch light, you may want to substitute the resistors with 10x higher values, as has been recently discussed, to lower the parasitic drain when not in use.
I’m using v009, not sure on the differences of the later revisions.
Thank you FmC !
Any clue about which version of the board i should use ? I’m not interested in e-switch.
Also which package of attiny i should use . On A17DD i used attiny13a-SSU . So in attiny 25/85 still SSU is what i need ?
Attiny25v-SSU would be the right size. the 85 doesn’t come in SSU package so you would have to use the SU package and bend the legs under, but it’s workable.
I’m not current on the different board versions though
Whether you use the 13A or 25 will depend on which firmware you wish to utilize. The A6 firmware uses the 13A, Bistro uses the 25.
V013 is probably the board to use.
I know about the firmwares for each attiny .
i will build some with 13a and some with 25 .
Thank you Dale ! 
Built today 4 drivers :
One with attiny25 , and it works like a one mode driver (like the led minus and the ground is connected)…
Three with attiny13a that don’t even light up…
Checked all 4 boards for shorts (if there was any drop of solder for example) , but there aren’t any.
Any clue ? I believe there is a short inside the pcb layer , but i don’t know….
Can’t you use a DMM for shortcut measurement? With so few parts it should be easy to find.
On the attiny25 board there is a short between led minus and ground …
Desoldered all the components and it’s still the same . Soldered components in an other board and works perfect .
On the other 3 boards , checked the diode (if it was the other way around) but it is the right way installed .
Did you put the ATTiny on in proper orientation? Don’t laugh, I’ve put em on backwards before…
Edit: I’ve also built a light completely that wouldn’t work at all, only to find the MCU was never flashed with firmware.
Pictures, show us the drivers…
The orientation is right , checked that too .
I flashed the attinys as long as i received them , but i’m going to reflash them today afternoon.
[quote=wight]
Up front: Sorry if I miss anything folks - I don’t have a lot of time so I’ve skimmed the last 10+ posts.
Do any BLF member experiment to confirm these components values (resistors and capacitors)? Wight is offline for some time now. Perhaps he had made the research to find out. Thanks if someone can help. Already ordered the necessary stuff to start building some V032 boards.
Mozart - not sure what parts you are referring to exactly for confirming. I lost track of all this - I'm using MtnE's MTN17DDm v1.1 boards now, mostly. I dunno for what MCU or usage you are building it for. For 13A's, it's all the standard parts for C1, D1, R1, R2, and OTC.
Tom E, thanks for your reply.
I need to build some drivers for 1s flashlights with single, triple and quad emitters. I will be using 13A and 25 tinys. The parts that I would like to confirm are for the 25s. Can I use 1uf for C1, or a larger value is recomended? I have some 0603 4.7uf X7R capacitors if needed for C1. The otc can be 10uf with 100k pulldown resistor R5? As I will use these drivers with one cell lights the zener load resistor R3 can be 200ohm or a smaller value one? For the R6 FET gate pulldown I’m thinking to try 40k to 60k as Richard use in his 1.11 v driver, what do you think? Please, I need some “light guru” advice to correctly build these drivers.
What drivers are you planing to build?
Look at this post for the details on what components to use
Basically, I use the following values in all drivers
C1 – 10uF
OTC – 1uF
R1 – 22k
R2 – 4.7k
With one cell you don’t need R3.
+1 w/finges. I've bee doin this stuff so long - there's so much history here, I make assumptions along the way.
C1 has been 10 uF since the beginning - last 3+ years, never changed, until the 25/45/85 came along and we(me) experimented with beefing up the cap. I go as high as 20 uF sometimes, stacking caps adds uF. Found it's needed on some boards, maybe with some parts, dunno.
I would also "always" populate R6 on the v032 board for a 25/45/85. I've used 12K's, but can go as high as 47K -- the lower, the more effective but don't go below 12K - some recommend not going below 40K.
I’m using too 19.1k for R1 , not 22k .
Voltage divide resistors using batt+ after the diode should be 19.1K, before the diode should use 22K - that's been the rule so we don't have to use different values in the firmware. This board is before the diode, so you should use 22k so as not to impact the LVP values in all flavors of firmware out there.
This has been the "rule" for a long time now. Wight's boards are, I think, always before the diode. The diode causes a voltage drop, and that's why the difference.
If you mix it up, then the onus is on you to change the LVP values in the firmware - not sure if any firmware is around that configures it both ways, and allows you to choose at compile time -- could probably be done though, but you do want your voltage range you monitor roughly centered in the range you read in via the A-to-D.
Hi,
I’m a noob in modding a torches here, I hope I can get a little insight on making lighted tailcap for Manker E14.
I have put resistors and LEDs on my tailcap board, but still have no idea where should I add the “bleeder” on the driver.
Any information is highly appreciated.
Thanks!