That's about the proper ratio, as long as the ratio of R1:R2 is bout the same as 36K:4.7K, all depends what resistor values you have or can get. If you stay with these ratios, you should be able to use standard 13A firmware with LVP protection, because that ratio specifically match's well for 2 cells in series.
Oopsie! Forgot, a "2000" labeled resistor is actually 200 ohms,
thank you very much Tom for your help!!
I have already the resistors , but i can’t find a source for the zener diodes .
Which firmware should i use exactly?
Edit : Any other zener except BZX384-B4V3,115 ?
Ahhh, for firmware, I haven't been doing much with 13A's as of late. I'm at work, so don't have access to all my firmware verisons. I got my own spins on 13A, 25, and 85 firmware, but it's all based on STAR pretty much, so I'd looke at the STAR versions, but like I said, bout anything would do.
This is the standard zener we use:
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_104&product_id=316
Richard probably buys them at Mouser, think I also did recently. I think MtnE and Mouser are ruled out for you cause of shipping costs, etc.
Mtn has lower shipping 
Thanks for your help
Almost any firmware should work, but you’ll still need to calibrate the voltage yourself. And from what I hear, LVP may be a bit tricky on this setup. There are reports of voltage sag so severe that turbo mode triggers LVP even on full cells.
Tk what firmware should i use?
Starry-offtime?
Use whichever one has an interface you like. 
I may be a little biased about which specific project. However, it probably depends on what kind of light you’re using and what you want to do with it. For example, blf-a6 is nice for EDC lights but not as nice on throwers, because it starts on low. Meanwhile, STAR_off_time has an option to start on high instead, so it might be better for throwers. Both offer mode memory if you want it.
Okay. . I would like one without the fet or anything above 380 ma. . The settings need be 100% of one amc7135 (not 2 or more) , 75,50,25,10,5% pwm based on max 380ma. Is this possible? . Or how much is possible?
Most drivers are wow factor designed, and such are lacking for usefulness and efficient 10 plus hour runtime from a single 18650.
Why not just use an ak-47-a and remove some chips? Cheaper and easier.
Of course it's possible, pretty simple for implementing in any FET+1 firmware version out there. Of course a fully populated FET+1 driver can do all that, plus have a turbo mode using a FET and there's no difference whatsoever in runtime per mode, for the modes you specified. You would just get the best of both worlds - that's why the FET+1 drivers were created to begin with - great run times on the low modes using just the 7135, super output when using the FET.
Tom, degarb is an oddity. He has e-mailed me several times and he has no interest in anything more than the power stated, period.
Easiest solution is what Richard suggested , get an ak-47 and leave only one 7135 .
Other solution , take a fet+1 driver , remove fet , modify firmware .
Ahh, not a problem. Posting on this thread I would assume he wanted to buy one of these boards or already had one. Lots of options...
Anyway, good to see you posting 
On a 3500 mAh cell on a 7135 you would get about 10 hours of ~150 lumens or so, on a typical XM-L2 or XPL. Think I saw ~180 lumens on triple or quad LED setups.
Does anybody know which Fet+1x7135 driver on Oshpark is the “up to date” variant? There are so many revisions and I am a bit confused which one to order.
I am looking for a 17mm Fet+1 driver for 1S use that works with some of the firmware in Toykeeper’s repository.
Thank you!
Which firmware are you wanting to use?
I am flexible on the firmware. Guess any FW with 2 channels/pins and compatibility with this driver would be fine? I will only have 1 emitter and need very few modes. The Attiny13 and 25 are here with me, can use either.
edit:
This is a useful thread but I don’t think it is up to date? Oshpark Projects
I recommended the Nanjg because it can be had pre-assembled for less than the parts alone would cost you to build one up in smaller quantities and if all you want is a single 7135, then there is no reason really to go through the trouble of building one.
Also, why would you want a 2 channel firmware/driver if you’re using one emitter at maximum 380mA current. Makes no sense.
EDIT: If you’d like to build your own driver, than the HQ4S from HarleQuin is a very nice one. There’s also a dual channel version of it, if you’d insist on that for what reason whatsoever.
I would say try one of TexasAce’s Avenger driver boards. They are the most “up to date”. They are triple-channel, but could be used as dual channel by just leaving the extra parts off and a couple minor adjustments to the firmware.
They don’t work with all firmwares, but TK’s Bistro and TomE’s Narsil work with it.
Otherwise I think all of the more recent wight boards are mostly the same, just with minor tweaks. Just go with the highest version number. You can click on one of wights boards in oshpark, and use that to see all of the ones (and most recent ones) that he has posted.
Thank you, pilotdog!
Will compare TexasAce’s Avenger driver and wight’s boards and pick the easiest one to assemble/reflow/with the fewest parts.