The metal plate transfers battery temperature to the temp sensor for that slot, a missing plate do not disable the sensor, but simply means the coupling between the sensor and battery is a bit more loose, i.e. the temperature difference (Between real and measured temperature) will be larger.
Thanks HKJ so much for the reply.
Like I said the plate came loose and I put it back in so at least im not missing any parts.
I did notice some themal paste on the tip of the sensor in the slot hefore i replced the metal plate.
The other plates are all in place very solidly.
This one seems a bit loose.
Do you know of the plates are meant to be be glued or soldered in place?
From what I can tell they just clip in place and come into contact with the thermal paste tip.
Im hoping that even though it feels loose i might just be able to remove and bend it a bit then replace it again.
I really dont want to go through a warranty claim if its working ok.
From my observations temp reading in slot 3 seem very close to the other slots even with the plate feeling a bit loose.
Since temp readings are used in programs Im a bit uneasy with the problem even though its minor …. Just my OCD cant let it go 
Thanks again for the advice.
I believe they just click in, adding some glue might make them stick.
For EU folks: NKon.nl has it now 97,75€ plus ship (around 10€).
Could’nt resist :person_facepalming: . Now the short wait… (guess 4 days) 
EDIT: So I had it for two days now … and I already love it!
It is not difficult at all to make programs for it, I have used up the 30 slots!. Well I forced myself to leave a few slot numbers for acute needs.
I gave it a re-calibration (easy done also - can also be found on YouTube) as it was a little off on the last digits. Well it is now exact according to my Fluke 179.
BUT!
I think the MC3000 Charger Manual is really difficult to read i.e. the usage of the abbreviations TOV (Total Overview), SOV (Slot Operation View), SPV (Slot Programming View), DDV (Diagram Drawing View) and GSV (Global Setup View) throughout the manual.
These abbreviations make the manual almost unreadable and should not have been used. I am going to remove them in my written manual and write the real meaning. I think the time used will be earned back quickly.
I wonder if I am the only one in BLF with a SKY-MC3000 with broken spring posts.
The problem is widely discussed on CPF.
As a rail in my MC3000 seemed loose when I retracted the negative bracket I decided to look inside.
I immediately saw that the ends of the thin plastic spring posts in slot #3 and #4 were tilted backward because they were broken at the base and the springs pulled the pins forward at the other side of the PCB as much as the hole allowed it to tilt. It could just be a matter of time before the springs would slip the broken posts (as reported by CPF members) and I made a fix that seems to hold.
What worries me is that the good spring posts in slot #1 and #2 look solid enough when they are supported by the PCB hole, so I suspect that the damage to slot #3 and #4 were done at factory assembly time. If the rails are operated without the posts being supported from the PCB then the thin posts could easily snap.
On CPF there is a member who collects S/N numbers of MC3000 with broken posts trying to identify a problematic production batch.
Perhaps a member of both forums could help him with my S/N which is 000908555, bought may, 2016.
BTW. A new Firmware v1.11 (and a new manual) has been released. Reportedly it should be safe to upgrade on Windows 10.
I have got 2 broken spring posts in my unit, #1 and #2. Happened while charging 71mm long protected cells, they suddenly just popped off. First I thought the batteries overheated and melted the spring post, but it’s just because the post is extremely thin and weak.
Fixed it myself by attaching the spring to the hole in the PCB using a small ring. But now it’s a bit loose and won’t charge 16340 without a spacer… Not a big deal really since I only use it for measuring the health and capacity, not for regular charging.
My unit was brought just after release, could be the very first batch.
Actually this happened a long time ago, I didn’t realize this problem was so common and didn’t bother to talk about it because I got it fixed in 15 minutes.
I was thinking about buying this charger. But now I have second thoughts…
@will34
Thank’s for reporting. If you want you could mention your S/N here. I think that sooner or later ‘TinderBox (UK)’ will see this thread and can utilize our numbers in his statistics.
@atbglenn
As HKJ said:
“Even with all the above issues I can only call it a very good charger, but it is not for everyone”.
A buyer should be willing to invest a lot of time and obviously some mechanical and programming (updates) knowledge in this ‘hobby project’.
Have you been able to confirm if any of the issues you found have been addressed with updates?
Many issues have been fixed with firmware upgrades, but I have not tried it.
There is a MEGA thread on CPF about the charger where a guy has collected all the issues and ideas for improvement, then marked them when they where fixed/added.
How easy it is to determine hardware revision? Is it visible on the outside of the box (so you can ask a retailer before ordering)?
The boxes are identical as far as I can see. The easiest way to tell the revision is to check the bottom of the charger. If there’s a sticker in a rectangular indent in the center, it’s the newer version. Mine is one of the first newer versions and its serial number is 000978966.
This thread somewhat died last fall..... Does anyone know if these concerns have been addressed in the current version?
- It is required to remember the program numbers or press a key, on the initial screen there is no hint on how the selected program works.
- Default time on LiIon is 3 hours, this is to short.
- When terminating on time or capacity, no capacity information is saved.
- Break_in shows charged capacity, not discharge capacity.
- Backlight always requires a keypress to turn on, putting a battery into the charger will not turn the light on
- Factory calibration do not match specifications.
- The PC software requires a high screen resolution
- NiMH charge curves looks messy on PC, an option to hiding measuring pauses would be nice.
- PC software saves csv files at wrong location.
- It is not possible to copy programming from one charger to another, people with more than one charger (That will be me) must enter each program on each charger!
- The Bluetooth software is not stable and do not work on all phones.
- Strange coding on the usb output, why not use a chip to automatic get the best coding?
Have they fixed the slider spring issue?
I’m interested in answers in some of these questions too (the program number issue for example and the USB coding) since I’ve been looking at the charger from time to time.
What I know is that most people use Data Explorer instead of SkyRC’s software and that Bluetooth is considered a lost cause, but mostly due to the bad app. There has been a redesign of the case and and also a switch in suppliers so it’s a lot stronger now.
I will eventually buy one. But not until the issues brought up by members here are addressed.
I have QC issues with SkyRC. And they have no USA based warranty support. Here is some info on another of their products…the B6 mini……
Here is a graphic example of why I’m very skeptical of SkyRC products. They seem to lack in design skills.
Here is an Authentic SkyRC B6 Mini. You can see the USB port. Notice that the PC board holding the USB port is somewhat of a peninsula (or finger) sticking out with the USB port at the end. What happens is that it takes VERY little pressure while inserting and removing the USB plug to cause this fragile part of the PC board to flex slightly each time you connect or disconnect the USB cable. In very short order, the solder connections crack because the board flexes, leaving the USB port inoperative.
It’s this kind of dumb engineering (or lack of) that give me very little confidence in SkyRC products. That combined with no USA based place to get warranty service. Not to mention all the reports of MC3000 problems here on this forum.
The points marked in red are the fragile points that break easily as the board flexes. There really is no excuse for this kind of design foopahs.
It doesn’t take an engineer to see that putting the USB port on a flexible part of the PC board like this is inexcusable and does not instill product confidence imo.
My advice with these is to get a dedicated USB cable, plug it in ONCE, and leave it plugged into the B6 mini. Only unplug it from the Computer.
I have to agree bout this company. Great features/function, much less attention to production engineering, packaging, etc. However I must say SkyRC was very responsive to me from contacting them on their website, though they deferred to GearBest for the replacement cover.
Ohhh - finally after long delays, I got a replacement cover for the MC3000 from GearBest!! Well, typical for GearBest, the packing of such a light plastic housing was totally wrong, bad, sloppy, cheap --- I'd use more descriptions but think you get the picture. Even though it was in a thin plastic bag in the standard cheapo very thin bubble wrap lined bag, I though it survived but noticed a small piece of plastic in the bag, and of course it's a piece broken off the tip of one of the spring tab/studs -- the exact reason why I ordered/needed a replacement!
Looking it over, the 4 spring tabs/studs are the only thing sticking out from the housing, so of course are susceptible to being broken off when nothing is protecting it from getting banged around in shipping.
Perhaps thats the real inspiration for the store named Banggood 
Tom,
I’m not exactly sure what type plastic the housings are made from but you might look into Weld-On plastic adhesives for repair. If the plastic breaks that easily I doubt it’s ABS, maybe Polypropylene.
I use Weld-On for a lot of plastic repairs and they are usually as strong (or stronger) than the original part.
SkyRC (IMO), has very poor engineering and design. As mentioned above, the mistakes they make are simply inexcusable.
They may have good EE designs, but the physical designs of their PC boards and housings is poor to awful. (again, imo)
It’s THE reason I have not purchased an MC3000. Well, that and lack of after sale support…and a shopping list of user suggested improvements that members here have pointed out need to be made……and have not yet.
It’s also the reason I continue to pursue using a Data Logger with my B6 mini and Accucell.
Not sure if the Xtar Dragon has this capability (exporting Data).
Probably has to do with something getting lost in the translation and they thought English speaking people would like getting a lot of “Bang” for the Buck”?
But “GoodBangForTheBuck” didn’t sound right.