[Review] Manker E11 XP-L AA/14500

Nice review. Manker is on a roll with some nice products.

Simply… What is it that holds the driver in place? It looks like the an euro flashlight… The driver is hold in place as the an euro flashlight…

Edited because someone considers rude my original comment. Thanks.

feel free to tell me and the other BLF members where we get lights with construction, performance and packaging… that cost 1€.
10€ are fine too.

Thanks for the nice review!

I couldn’t wait…. just ordered one in NW! :beer:

haha

Experimenting a bit

Does this light have the same tail cap dimension as he t01? The lack of lanyard hole in T01 is really annoying me.

I read a response by a well seasoned member on CPF stating the neutral white E11 he received had a :confounded: sick green tint. Might consider cool white if that is the case.

What say you MANKERLIGHT ??

ETA: There is a second E11 Neutral White at same CPF thread with :confounded: tint.

You can see clearly in the picture it has. :arrow_right:

Hello Budda, sorry for ask, but, Can you confirm the accurate of your integrated sphere for this 1 hour with NiMH around 300 lumnes?, sorry, but I have some doubts about this data of lumens….

Of course thanks for the great review!! I have bought one unit and i hope get it in a few days.
??

Hello Trevi_Lux
no problem, what I do for all kind of test is this:

  1. I do the runtime test. Given the high variability of my setup between measurements (alignement of lux-meter, positioning of the light, distance between the lux meter) generally the data between the levels can’t be compared directly for all levels.
    So, what I do is consider every level starting at 100%, and then fading.
  2. Then I measure the lux/m of each level. This kind of measure is more accurate because it has more stable positioning of the light, distance and alignement.
    The value from this test will give me the max Cd value, as well as the proportional output of the levels (for example 1000 cd, 500 cd, 10 cd for 3 levels means that the output is: 100, 50, 1%).
  3. I do the ceiling bounce test with one of the few stock lights I have left: an Eagletac SX25L3 with MTG-2. For each test I do, I have to test again the celing bounce value of the SX25L3.
    Given the fact that my setup for the celing bounce gives rather low values (= it has a low sensitivity), if the light to test does has a lot of power I will measure the ceiling bounce values of the higher output, otherwise only for the turbo or max otput.
  4. I use the turbo intensity of the SX25L3 and proportionally calculate the value of the Turbo mode of the light to test. This is enough to give me all the info I need for calculating the absolute intensity of the levels: If I measure turbo at 100 lumens, and from the Cd I know that the levels are 100, 50, 1%; I now can say that the output are 100, 50 and 1 lumens.
    If the light has a lot of power (more than 1000 lumens) I also have the value of the ceiling bounce of medium/high levels, and now I can calculate their absolute intensity also comparing them with the ceiling bounce value of the SX25L3. I usually do both ways, to see if the values are similar.

Lot of people worried about the tint.
Mine is not bad at all for a CW (for you cool white lovers this is a bit on the neutral white).
Here’s compared to a Thrunite T10 with an XP-G Led with a CW tint.
The distance at the wall is same for both lights. I set them to a comparable brightness level (can’t do miracles, yet).

I pushed further the camera, and I don’t know why the colour for both lights changes. Use this pics only to see the differences in the beam appareance, not the tint.

The T10 is not known as a thrower. The E11 has a wider beam.

I added this to the review post.

Most of the lights in my collection are Astrolux/Manker: Astro S1, S2, S3, S41, A01, Manker U11, T01 (x2). All great lights, powerful, good design and features. E11 fits here with all good things, however…

I had bad luck with two Manker’s T01 - broken driver - now afraid of buying another one.

My Manker U11 is good (black box), one of the best lights I could recommend to anyone. I would buy NW version also, BUT - again, many reports about quality/tint issues (brown box). Now I’m much more sensitive to the tint, so I’ll pass.

Wanted to buy E11 - but it looks like tint lottery.
In a group buy price - perhaps I would take my chance, but for regular price - nope.

Again, design is really good, but quality is not enough to enforce “premium brand selling strategies”. In premium league there’s no gambling.

There is a second E11 neutral white at same CPF thread with :confounded: tint.

Ya might wanna consider cool white if ya don’t like the greenish roulette.

Wh :cry: y Manker, Why?

Great, got a nw incoming. Guess I’ll have to swap emitters, baby puke green is unacceptable to me… Manker?

You may be lucky. Surely all NW’s can’t be that way…I hope…

Mine NW is w/o green. I like this model.

Luck has never been strong with me, but I’ll update when it arrives. :person_facepalming: