BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Updating my debugging posts for non functional BLF A6 from Banggood over pages 24 and 25 - after some back and forth Banggood sent me a new head unit and that promptly fixed things. Not sure if it’s the same tint as the original order but not a big issue - now have two fully functional A6s…

And a Nitefighter…

And whatever I buy next from Bangood…

Thanks for all the debugging help.

Hi bought a BLF A6 and attempted the bypass spring mod and removed the spring off the tailcap. I tried solidering it back but ending up getting solider everywhere and now the light will not turn on. Is there anyway to fix this or to purchase a replacement tailcap?

Thanks

Replacement switches can be obtained from several sources, including the US-based MtnElectronics.com if you want it quickly. I don’t recall if banggood offers the switches by themselves yet.

You should be able to fix it. I’m assuming that the light worked before you did this but I’m guessing that you heated up the board so much that you opened a connection to the switch. Have you tried bypassing the switch by connecting the negative if the battery to the tube? (Check the first post of thread for a pic of this) your switch makes a connection between the retaining ring/tube and the battery negative. So be sure that the solder points for your switch are still intact.

Hi,

I think I have not seen this kind of misbehaviour before in this thread. I have bought a S1 in 3D and was so happy with it that I couldn’t resist to buy 3 more BLF A6 in all tints, one of them bare. :wink: Two of these A6 are as expected, but one, the 5A version, behaves strange. The light was tested with fresh NCR18650B, one protected, one unprotected, both above 4.1V. The light is in 7-mode.

- switching the light on: Nothing happens, no visible light, even in complete darkness. So no moon mode here…

- now stepping through the modes with clicks until Turbo works as expected (Turbo mode may not as bright as with my S1, but I have nothing to measure.)

- next click to moon mode gives a short flash of a very low mode (maybe moon?), then again darkness as in the first mode.

- medium press goes back to turbo

- medium press goes to strobe

- next medium press: similar as from turbo to moon: one very dim flash, then complete darkness. Was expecting battery info…

- next medium press: similar to the expected bike flasher, but between the strobes the light is dark/off.

  • next medium press: darkness (aka my moon mode)

Also, after pressing 15 times to get into config mode: complete darkness, no flashing to indicate mode settings.

Any idea what’s wrong here? I have not yet openened the head and seen the driver because I am a little afraid of dedooming/destroying the LED… Or shall I just ask Banggood for a head or driver replacement?

Sounds like a faulty driver to me… I’d go for a replacement.

It might be a faulty or missing solder connection at the 7135 or pin 5 of the Attiny on the driver board. Or the Vdd Pin of the 7135 or pin 5 of the Attiny is shorted to ground.

Hi, I recently have had problems with my A6 due to a failed spring bypass mod. I purchased a new switch and a new driver and the light will still not turn on. What are the chances I ruined the emitter and is it even possible…?

Thank you

Can you post pictures? Many problems can be identified with them.

http://i.imgur.com/nQkgU8i.jpg

here is a picture of the emitter… note that the switch and driver are brand new, I have tested the switch with my other A6 i ended up buying but dont know how I can test the driver.

Let me know if you need more pictures.

Thanks

You can test the emitter with a battery and two wires, if it doesn’t light it’s toast. I’m assuming it worked before. If it does work then it could be a cold joint on the solder pads when you reattached the emitter wires. I’d make sure they were good before testing as the wires cover the pads. The threads on one end of the tube are anodized but not on the other so it’s imperative that the anodized end were the ano has been removed right at the edge of the tube makes contact or you get no light. You might try flipping the tube end for end.

I want to clean up a reflector, how to find the tool for retaining rings in autozone?

The tool is called snap ring pliers.

Don’t worry about autozone. Banggood carries them. :wink:

http://m.banggood.com/SD-Snap-Ring-Pliers-4-in-1-Retaining-Circlip-Tool-Replaceable-Tips-p-918875.html

Got my non-anodized A6 in today, luckily no DOA issues, but some issues none the less.

Lots of aluminum flash/burr needed to be removed from both ends of the main body. It came right off, but caused all sorts of odd issues (flickering/mode jumping) when the light was fresh out of the box.

The only other issue was was some debris in the reflector, but that was easily removed by taking the light down and blowing it out.

Probably a good idea with any budget light to tear it down as much as possible, clean, and reassemble. There’s often bits of loose metal in places that they don’t belong. If the wires are long enough it’s not a bad idea to loosen the driver retainer and blow the hollow of the pill out as well.

I have disassembled the retaining ring but I can’t disassembled more, how can I take the light down?

Check underneath the driver for any other loose bits from manufacturing, maybe wipe it out with a q-tip and reinstall the retaining ring snug but not cranked hard. Also unscrew the bezel and check under the reflector for any loose bits there. Be careful not to touch the reflector surface as it’s easy to scratch and hard to clean without scratching.

If you want to actually remove the driver you need to remove the bezel and desolder the emitter wires then pull the driver out. Why do you want to pull the driver?

I want to clean up the reflector which has some debris inside. I need to unscrew the bezel to remove the reflector? It’s really really tight so hard to unscrew it.