Note that 1200lm is LED Lumens, (which really has no meaning except marketing?)
And the ANSI 1000lm rating is only with 2xCR123A
It’s rated 900lm ANSI on 18650 Li-ion, (which I assume is what most of us would use) Not to say 900lm isn’t bright but until I took a good look at the specs I was under the impression it had 1200lm.
H02 is 960 LED Lumens / 820lm ANSI, so H03 is only slightly brighter than H02. But H02 was very bright indeed.
Also this H03 is 10mm shorter than H02, so a big size improvement there over the H02.
I'm working on upgrading my H15 to a FET+1 that will utilize the LED's in the button - to run the latest Narsil with smooth ramping. It's gonna get a decent NW XM-L2 on a Noctigon - the stock MCPCB is typical aluminum in the H15. I'm using an XM-L2 because the optics are made for it.
Mine also is the 21 mm driver, but a 17 will fit in there nice on top of the 21 stock driver - I've wired it up for multiple grnd contact points already.
The smooth ramping UI and pure power should be awesome in this light. What I like is the surface the MCPCB sits on is all one piece with the body, and the cooling fins are directly connected and behind that surface - best direct connection to outside heat sink fins I've seen. Of course it's a small 14500 (AA size) light, so I'm sure it will get hot at 4.5-5A, as I'm expecting to get.
I agree, the press to turn off is awful!!! Why can’t it be press and hold to CYCLE and click to turn off?! Apart from that I still love my H02, but the UI gets me every time.
seems like a good price and Im giving it a go as my first skillhunt light.
I have been collecting Zebralights for years and have almost all models but decided time to break the ice with other brand now as Zebralight is just way too expensive.
I’d like to do something special with my H02, like an MT-G2 or XPH50
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Thanks tom, yes there’s a lot of room in the H20 above the horozontal board, guess I’d have to remove the vertical board and clear all the components off to make it into a contact board. Mtn. Electronics lists a 21mm contact board but I’ve never seen it in stock since I’ve been looking, I’ve yet to check FT or others though.
Too bad they didn’t make the head sidewalls just a wee bit thicker and that driver shelf could have been wide enough for a 20mm, on the H02 the driver ledge is about 21mm. also thought about grinding down the edges of a 22mm driver but I’m not sure there would be enough of the grounding contact ring left? And the 22 is FET, not FET+1.
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On the H02 the MCPCB surface is also one piece with the body, but attached only on the sides, and unfortunately there are no cooling fins.
Behind the surface is just wide open space, a second cavity with the surface being like a separator in the middle of the head, and the surface is quite thin, it looks about the same thickness of (or slightly thinner than) the stock MCPCB, about 2mm or less. I haven’t dug into that area yet but at least it appears the MCPCB is nicely secured with 2 screws.
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Is there a FET+1 driver off the shelf that will run the LED’s in the button? Or did you custom build one for that?
It really looks like this new H03 would be an excellent candidate for a FET driver swap, especially if the MCPCB surface is directly connected to the cooling fins like your H15. It already has the copper DTP so just drop in a FET/DD and you’re ready to blaze!
Just checked and NW is available on the Skilhunt site!!
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GB has these listed now on Pre-sale, someone please give us a discount code deal!
EDIT- GB not listing NW version
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Well on the chart in the OP it shows Low2 (3lm) is 450hrs. on 18650, but no spec shown for Low1 (0.5lm) but I assume double the Low2, so maybe 900hrs??
We have to wait but I will get us a code. Keep in mind that they will not be at the blowout pricing that we've been seeing for the H02...which is a steal at the moment.
It would be nice if Skilhunt has started potting their drivers and offering replacement drivers (not under warranty) to repair those that have stopped working from getting dropped which is not a manufacturing defect.
Both of these pictures look like computer renders (which may be obvious but thought I’d point it out). So It may be hard to get a consistent opacity to the generated optics, etc. It may also explain the old green square around the LED.
10mm shorter than the H02, will it still be able to hold the 3400mAh Panasonic NCR18650B cells?
The H02 I got had an other headband than pictured and it’s too small for my head.
I know it’s a minor detail but for a headlamp a decent headband is a must. I don’t have a particular large head, I mean if a use a headlamp from a friend I find that most of the time I have to make the headband smaller. So most of my friends won’t be able to use the H02 just because of that and even for me it’s way to small. I ordered an ultrafire headband, hope my H02 fits.
The "R" has a very very noticable spot. If you like being able to see a defined spot or will be using this in outdoor applications like hiking and camping then you probably want the "R".
I use my H02 primarily indoors so I do not prefer the reflector version in my application. Even when I am working outdoors I have grown accustomed to the TIR.
My coworkers prefer the R and other reflector equipped lights because they like that concentrated spot.
