[Review] Manker E11 XP-L AA/14500

Hello Trevi_Lux
no problem, what I do for all kind of test is this:

  1. I do the runtime test. Given the high variability of my setup between measurements (alignement of lux-meter, positioning of the light, distance between the lux meter) generally the data between the levels can’t be compared directly for all levels.
    So, what I do is consider every level starting at 100%, and then fading.
  2. Then I measure the lux/m of each level. This kind of measure is more accurate because it has more stable positioning of the light, distance and alignement.
    The value from this test will give me the max Cd value, as well as the proportional output of the levels (for example 1000 cd, 500 cd, 10 cd for 3 levels means that the output is: 100, 50, 1%).
  3. I do the ceiling bounce test with one of the few stock lights I have left: an Eagletac SX25L3 with MTG-2. For each test I do, I have to test again the celing bounce value of the SX25L3.
    Given the fact that my setup for the celing bounce gives rather low values (= it has a low sensitivity), if the light to test does has a lot of power I will measure the ceiling bounce values of the higher output, otherwise only for the turbo or max otput.
  4. I use the turbo intensity of the SX25L3 and proportionally calculate the value of the Turbo mode of the light to test. This is enough to give me all the info I need for calculating the absolute intensity of the levels: If I measure turbo at 100 lumens, and from the Cd I know that the levels are 100, 50, 1%; I now can say that the output are 100, 50 and 1 lumens.
    If the light has a lot of power (more than 1000 lumens) I also have the value of the ceiling bounce of medium/high levels, and now I can calculate their absolute intensity also comparing them with the ceiling bounce value of the SX25L3. I usually do both ways, to see if the values are similar.

Lot of people worried about the tint.
Mine is not bad at all for a CW (for you cool white lovers this is a bit on the neutral white).
Here’s compared to a Thrunite T10 with an XP-G Led with a CW tint.
The distance at the wall is same for both lights. I set them to a comparable brightness level (can’t do miracles, yet).

I pushed further the camera, and I don’t know why the colour for both lights changes. Use this pics only to see the differences in the beam appareance, not the tint.

The T10 is not known as a thrower. The E11 has a wider beam.

I added this to the review post.

Most of the lights in my collection are Astrolux/Manker: Astro S1, S2, S3, S41, A01, Manker U11, T01 (x2). All great lights, powerful, good design and features. E11 fits here with all good things, however…

I had bad luck with two Manker’s T01 - broken driver - now afraid of buying another one.

My Manker U11 is good (black box), one of the best lights I could recommend to anyone. I would buy NW version also, BUT - again, many reports about quality/tint issues (brown box). Now I’m much more sensitive to the tint, so I’ll pass.

Wanted to buy E11 - but it looks like tint lottery.
In a group buy price - perhaps I would take my chance, but for regular price - nope.

Again, design is really good, but quality is not enough to enforce “premium brand selling strategies”. In premium league there’s no gambling.

There is a second E11 neutral white at same CPF thread with :confounded: tint.

Ya might wanna consider cool white if ya don’t like the greenish roulette.

Wh :cry: y Manker, Why?

Great, got a nw incoming. Guess I’ll have to swap emitters, baby puke green is unacceptable to me… Manker?

You may be lucky. Surely all NW’s can’t be that way…I hope…

Mine NW is w/o green. I like this model.

Luck has never been strong with me, but I’ll update when it arrives. :person_facepalming:

please check http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?420275-Review-Manker-E11-AA-14500-XP-L

please check :http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?420275-Review-Manker-E11-AA-14500-XP-L

Don't worry, E11 have lanyard hole on the tail cap.

really? where 2?

Hey Budda,
Great review again! Just to confirm, is the switch button rubber or silicone? Thanks!

Can you explain to me how can I tell the difference?
Maybe Manker guys knows better :slight_smile:

EDIT: they told me it’s nitrile rubber.

Will the E11 available at GearBest in the future?
K.

Manker told me no.
By the way, I got a Efest 14500 IMR and monday I should get runtime at high medium and low.

How about some runtime plots with 14500

Using Efest 14500 IMR v2 700mAh, charged each time at 0.5A.





Thanks for confirming that:) Does the material feels the same on the T01?