On the attiny25 board there is a short between led minus and ground …
Desoldered all the components and it’s still the same . Soldered components in an other board and works perfect .
On the other 3 boards , checked the diode (if it was the other way around) but it is the right way installed .
Did you put the ATTiny on in proper orientation? Don’t laugh, I’ve put em on backwards before…
Edit: I’ve also built a light completely that wouldn’t work at all, only to find the MCU was never flashed with firmware.
Pictures, show us the drivers…
The orientation is right , checked that too .
I flashed the attinys as long as i received them , but i’m going to reflash them today afternoon.
[quote=wight]
Up front: Sorry if I miss anything folks - I don’t have a lot of time so I’ve skimmed the last 10+ posts.
Do any BLF member experiment to confirm these components values (resistors and capacitors)? Wight is offline for some time now. Perhaps he had made the research to find out. Thanks if someone can help. Already ordered the necessary stuff to start building some V032 boards.
Mozart - not sure what parts you are referring to exactly for confirming. I lost track of all this - I'm using MtnE's MTN17DDm v1.1 boards now, mostly. I dunno for what MCU or usage you are building it for. For 13A's, it's all the standard parts for C1, D1, R1, R2, and OTC.
Tom E, thanks for your reply.
I need to build some drivers for 1s flashlights with single, triple and quad emitters. I will be using 13A and 25 tinys. The parts that I would like to confirm are for the 25s. Can I use 1uf for C1, or a larger value is recomended? I have some 0603 4.7uf X7R capacitors if needed for C1. The otc can be 10uf with 100k pulldown resistor R5? As I will use these drivers with one cell lights the zener load resistor R3 can be 200ohm or a smaller value one? For the R6 FET gate pulldown I’m thinking to try 40k to 60k as Richard use in his 1.11 v driver, what do you think? Please, I need some “light guru” advice to correctly build these drivers.
What drivers are you planing to build?
Look at this post for the details on what components to use
Basically, I use the following values in all drivers
C1 – 10uF
OTC – 1uF
R1 – 22k
R2 – 4.7k
With one cell you don’t need R3.
+1 w/finges. I've bee doin this stuff so long - there's so much history here, I make assumptions along the way.
C1 has been 10 uF since the beginning - last 3+ years, never changed, until the 25/45/85 came along and we(me) experimented with beefing up the cap. I go as high as 20 uF sometimes, stacking caps adds uF. Found it's needed on some boards, maybe with some parts, dunno.
I would also "always" populate R6 on the v032 board for a 25/45/85. I've used 12K's, but can go as high as 47K -- the lower, the more effective but don't go below 12K - some recommend not going below 40K.
I’m using too 19.1k for R1 , not 22k .
Voltage divide resistors using batt+ after the diode should be 19.1K, before the diode should use 22K - that's been the rule so we don't have to use different values in the firmware. This board is before the diode, so you should use 22k so as not to impact the LVP values in all flavors of firmware out there.
This has been the "rule" for a long time now. Wight's boards are, I think, always before the diode. The diode causes a voltage drop, and that's why the difference.
If you mix it up, then the onus is on you to change the LVP values in the firmware - not sure if any firmware is around that configures it both ways, and allows you to choose at compile time -- could probably be done though, but you do want your voltage range you monitor roughly centered in the range you read in via the A-to-D.
Hi,
I’m a noob in modding a torches here, I hope I can get a little insight on making lighted tailcap for Manker E14.
I have put resistors and LEDs on my tailcap board, but still have no idea where should I add the “bleeder” on the driver.
Any information is highly appreciated.
Thanks!
The bleeder goes between ground and positive, pretty much anywhere you can find these 2 in close enough proximity to put the resistor.
Seems counter intuitive doesn’t it? lol
There are pads for this resistor where the red wire (+) is connected.
Thanks Dale & Mike, it works now!
I’m now adjusting the R size to get desired brightness.
Apologies for bringing up an “older” thread - I am looking to build a Fet+1 17mm Attiny13 driver which is one-sided and works with common firmware (like the ones in the repository, I have all flashing tools here). Initially I was going to order the MTN-17DDm (v1.11) from MTN, but realized that international shipping for 1 PCB (which is 0.65 cent) would not be that efficient.
Is OSH Park ~ comparable with the MTN 17DD v.1.11 and would that be the current PCB version to use? Would anybody know whether that board works out?
I already own the following parts - do I need anything else? It is for a 1s configuration, so no Z1 required, I guess.
attiny13a-SSU
C1 - 10uF 10V+ 0603 or 0805
OTC: 1uF 0805
7135 (380 mA)
R1: 19.1k 0603
R2: 4.7k 0603
D1: SOD-323 Schottky
fet: PSMN0R9-25YLC (I tested this NXP fet before and it worked fine in another driver).
Thank you!
ps: I am also open to listen to other ideas, links to other boards and vendors. I have build an Oshpark board before and that all worked out.
I use this board with the exact same components you mentioned except 7135 (350mA) , and A6 firmware :
Thanks, I was going to order a board with a bypass hole, if possible. But thank you for confirming that your board works (I assume you worked out all the issues you mentioned above?).
Yes , i had some problems with the Bistro and attiny25 but now everything is fine .
Made 6 drivers past month , all working great .