Tom E, thanks for your reply.
I need to build some drivers for 1s flashlights with single, triple and quad emitters. I will be using 13A and 25 tinys. The parts that I would like to confirm are for the 25s. Can I use 1uf for C1, or a larger value is recomended? I have some 0603 4.7uf X7R capacitors if needed for C1. The otc can be 10uf with 100k pulldown resistor R5? As I will use these drivers with one cell lights the zener load resistor R3 can be 200ohm or a smaller value one? For the R6 FET gate pulldown I’m thinking to try 40k to 60k as Richard use in his 1.11 v driver, what do you think? Please, I need some “light guru” advice to correctly build these drivers.
What drivers are you planing to build?
Look at this post for the details on what components to use
Basically, I use the following values in all drivers
C1 – 10uF
OTC – 1uF
R1 – 22k
R2 – 4.7k
With one cell you don’t need R3.
+1 w/finges. I've bee doin this stuff so long - there's so much history here, I make assumptions along the way.
C1 has been 10 uF since the beginning - last 3+ years, never changed, until the 25/45/85 came along and we(me) experimented with beefing up the cap. I go as high as 20 uF sometimes, stacking caps adds uF. Found it's needed on some boards, maybe with some parts, dunno.
I would also "always" populate R6 on the v032 board for a 25/45/85. I've used 12K's, but can go as high as 47K -- the lower, the more effective but don't go below 12K - some recommend not going below 40K.
I’m using too 19.1k for R1 , not 22k .
Voltage divide resistors using batt+ after the diode should be 19.1K, before the diode should use 22K - that's been the rule so we don't have to use different values in the firmware. This board is before the diode, so you should use 22k so as not to impact the LVP values in all flavors of firmware out there.
This has been the "rule" for a long time now. Wight's boards are, I think, always before the diode. The diode causes a voltage drop, and that's why the difference.
If you mix it up, then the onus is on you to change the LVP values in the firmware - not sure if any firmware is around that configures it both ways, and allows you to choose at compile time -- could probably be done though, but you do want your voltage range you monitor roughly centered in the range you read in via the A-to-D.
Hi,
I’m a noob in modding a torches here, I hope I can get a little insight on making lighted tailcap for Manker E14.
I have put resistors and LEDs on my tailcap board, but still have no idea where should I add the “bleeder” on the driver.
Any information is highly appreciated.
Thanks!
The bleeder goes between ground and positive, pretty much anywhere you can find these 2 in close enough proximity to put the resistor.
Seems counter intuitive doesn’t it? lol
There are pads for this resistor where the red wire (+) is connected.
Thanks Dale & Mike, it works now!
I’m now adjusting the R size to get desired brightness.
Apologies for bringing up an “older” thread - I am looking to build a Fet+1 17mm Attiny13 driver which is one-sided and works with common firmware (like the ones in the repository, I have all flashing tools here). Initially I was going to order the MTN-17DDm (v1.11) from MTN, but realized that international shipping for 1 PCB (which is 0.65 cent) would not be that efficient.
Is OSH Park ~ comparable with the MTN 17DD v.1.11 and would that be the current PCB version to use? Would anybody know whether that board works out?
I already own the following parts - do I need anything else? It is for a 1s configuration, so no Z1 required, I guess.
attiny13a-SSU
C1 - 10uF 10V+ 0603 or 0805
OTC: 1uF 0805
7135 (380 mA)
R1: 19.1k 0603
R2: 4.7k 0603
D1: SOD-323 Schottky
fet: PSMN0R9-25YLC (I tested this NXP fet before and it worked fine in another driver).
Thank you!
ps: I am also open to listen to other ideas, links to other boards and vendors. I have build an Oshpark board before and that all worked out.
I use this board with the exact same components you mentioned except 7135 (350mA) , and A6 firmware :
Thanks, I was going to order a board with a bypass hole, if possible. But thank you for confirming that your board works (I assume you worked out all the issues you mentioned above?).
Yes , i had some problems with the Bistro and attiny25 but now everything is fine .
Made 6 drivers past month , all working great .
Have a look at this thread for the latest linear driver, it should also work with 13A but you would loose the third PWM channel.
” The Texas Avenger Driver series - FET + 1 + 6+ triple channel + Bistro + one driver for all your lights! “:Texas Avenger "TA" Driver series - Triple channel + Bistro or Narsil + Clicky or E-switch - The Ultimate open source driver!
R3 : 100 k
R4 : 47 ohm
C2 : 0.1 uF
While the TA driver is a great design it would need the above listed additional parts though.
Is it possible to leave the battery side empty (the one with the 6x7135 bank) on the TA series? actually, I might ask that on the other thread.
I would be happy to buy the Attiny25 but I don’t have the other missing parts (R3, R4 or C2 and the rest). Since I buy most of my parts directly from China it would take either too long or the item might get lost (happened before with my resistors).
Was hoping that someone has tested the V32 of the PCB (link: OSH Park ~ ) or whether it is comparable with the MTN 17DD?
Is there a reason why you want that particular version of this board? Earlier versions were very well-tested but I don’t think that one is.
The TexasAvenger board can be used with the “older” parts list, but it is limited by the firmware. Currently there’s only one solid FW that works with that board.
Richard at Mtn uses his own layout and parts on his newest designs
pilotdog68 - Since I am new to building drivers myself I thought the latest version would be the best. Apologies if that is not the case. I also checked the Oshpark projects @ BLF thread but I don’t know whether all drivers are in there (must be a ton of work to track all of that as well).
All I have is a hotplate to reflow solder the board, hence single-side only? I don’t know how to reflow a board with a hot plate / skillet and I can’t afford a SMD hot air rework station.
Can I leave the TexasAvenger driver empty on one side (the one with all the 7135 chips). I read a little bit through the details and wasn’t sure which channel goes to the FET and which one to the 1x7135.
my plan was to flash standard .hex files and not change anything (but I could try to do that too).
i have ordered the v32 board linked above and will report back after they have arrived. Unfortunately I also had to order a few parts - it will easily take 3-4 weeks to get everything and I’ll need to find time on a weekend to build/assemble. I don’t know how close this version is to the BLF 17DD driver but it is a Fet+1 I am after. haven’t ordered any FETs yet - not sure which one to go for… there are so many now.