I have 219b CRI 4000K and I love it! 5700K is to bright for my liking.
Hi dude, thanks for the answer. Brightness is not a problem for me, if you put them side by side, which one offer better color rendering?
Sadly that picture does not show as much as in real, what is your real life experience? what would you recommend? thanks.
I have only 4000K CRI tintā¦so I canāt tell about differences. But all below 5500K seems good to me! :+1:
hi, thanks for the detailed review of E2 :+1:
I only have the 5700K version and everything looks really vivid with the E2. With mine, the whites to look āwhiteā.
I can see for someone who prefers warmer lights, the 5700K version may appear too cool.
But in terms of CRI, Iām guessing same CRI, but the 4000K version will make things look a bit āyellowā?
I personally find that 4000K looks yellow to me, even when itās high-CRI. But I also find that 5700K is a bit too cool. The sweet spot seems to be about 4900K, right between the two. Dāoh.
This is highly dependent on personal preference though. You canāt really know which youāll like without seeing them.
After trying out high CRI lights, itās so hard for me to use none high CRI lights anymoreā¦ Iām finding Iām preferring about 5000K. I donāt mind going down to 4500K, but that starts getting a bit too warm. The Jaxman E2 is a bit cool for me. My Zebralight H600Fd is just a tiny bit yellow. My favorite is one of my BLF 348 at ~5000k that has a hint of rosy.
In my dreams, Iād put my BLF 348 led with my Armytek Wizard Pro honeycomb TIR lenses into my Zebralight H600Fd with the H600Fdās output and runtime! 
For me:
- Anything between 2700 - 4500K are all nice and pleasant as mood booster, especially when the GF is around.
- 5000 - 5700K are definitely my choice for mountain hiking and woods walking.
- 6500K is the best for work and general uses. White must be white. Youāll find it hard to clean your toilet with warm CCT, is it clean yet or notā¦ā¦ewww
- 6500K and above are only best to blind people (or yourself) and when you want to show-off your ultra tight beam toys in foggy nights.
A floody (>90 degree) headlamp with three adjustable CCT is my ideal EDC. And yes, no less than 85 CRI
I received 2 Jaxman E2 and measure color temp., (by RAW shots + Photoshop).
Jaxman E2 warm/newtral ā4000Kā (max. mode) : 4050 auto , 3950-4050 (manual)
Jaxman E2 daylight/cold ā5700Kā (max. mode) : 5600 auto , 5550-5650 (manual)
Zebralight H600FC (max. mode) : 3850-3900 auto , 3800-3090 (manual).
Conclusion: 4000-4050K and 5600Š,
Warm white Jaxman E2 works well in tandem with Zebralight H600FC.
Unfortunately, I canāt test now, how works daylight/cold Jaxman E2 in tandem with H600FD, but will be continue few weeks later.
Very interesting original review. Good to see a low cost tube light with high CRI emitters as standard, including a cool(ish) high CRI option.
Some things Iād like to see with the E2 (or any other high CRI tube light):
- A higher mid mode option (around 60%) to allow as high as possible continuous output without getting too hot to handle.
- More CCT options e.g. 5000k (a common Nichia tint), or even warmer 3500/3000k (not so common).
Why not make a few photographs with different lights and same camera settings?
Colorful stuff and food for example. That is the main idea of the cri light.
I dont have a high cri emitter yet, when i recieve one i will make photos myself too.
Photos are mostly useless in showing benefits of high CRI unless the difference is very drastic.
As a photographer, I would disagree. Just look at the hand photos earlier in this thread.
I would say the same. Also as a photographer. That is my main goal for high cri. To make the best light in a room/set/environment.
Furthermore I would boost the current from the 1.2 default to around double that for the max setting. The led should take that with no problems.
The advantages of high CRI would only be visible when comparing lights with identical CCT (and preferably also tint). The camera exaggarates white balance differences too much to be of any value. It just doesnāt reflect reality at all.
You are right.
I canāt compare different LEDs with different CCT and CRI by camera shots, because post-processing (even nice post-processing in C1 or Photoshop) blurs real difference between LEDs.
On these shots I see difference between LEDs with different CCT , but not CRI diff.
Hereās a 92CRI Nichia 219b emitter:
Hereās another one:
Now hereās a ~75 CRI XP-G:
ā¦ and a ~65CRI XR-E from a bargain bin light:
ā¦ and a ~65CRI XM-L:
See much difference? I donāt. I mean, obvious differences in beam pattern and exposure, but the CRI changes appear very small despite a large difference in specs. Digital cameras and computer screens can only capture/display three wavelengths, which makes them mostly incapable of portraying CRI differences.
As a bonus, hereās a wide-spectrum light. In person, it makes the most vivid colors:
Back to old school film cameraās and pass-around via snail mail. Thanks for the info; Iām learning a lot here 