Old school, an SP-98 Sipik clone with a swirly multi tone blue/lightblue/white pattern either painted on it or wrapped. My friend wanted more out of it, so I stuffed a 1/2ā thick copper plug in the hollow pill, glued it in with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive, used a 20 to 17 brass adapter ring to mount a 17mm FET+1 driver with A6 firmware. Swapped in an XP-L HI emitter on a 20mm Noctigon.
Pretty bright! The square image shows the oddly patterned XP-L HI die quite well, not sure if I should have done something different there, might pull it and put a domed XM-L2 U4 1A in itās place.
Ouchyfoot, it may be that the rubber cylinder in the button cover is preloading the switch giving it a hair trigger. Swapping out switch modules wonāt change anything but shaving the cylinder .5-1mm can easily fix it. Or a thicker aluminum disc that stacks on the switch.
Eagle Eye X6 with the same driver/LED.
I am sorry I didnāt take any photos of the innards, we all need a good laugh every now and again , it aināt pretty but it works. I will have to open it up again in the near future to fix the e-switch the only glue I had was hotglue, not the best for a 6A XHP-50.
My hunting friend asked me to mod this light to infrared and make it a one cell so he can mount it on the side of his IR scope. It is a trustfire 3T6 rebrand. First pic is not mine but just for reference.
I have no idea about the output or beam profile so Iām just hoping it works ok when he uses it the first time :cowboy_hat_face:
Will need to update the driver to one from RMM, since the stock driver does not like high amps. It just blinks and shuts down on turbo. Same thing happened on another triple I had and another user a few posts earlier. Works fine on low amp cells.
I wore one virtually identical on my belt for about 5 months, the only thing that bumped it was a similar quad I made myself from scratch. Figured, when I tell people I made it that should hold true top to bottom.
That would be me and triple XP-G3 S2+
Since then I found out that it works OK with Keeppower 18350 IMR cell, gets hot quickly so ti must be pulling some nice amps but when I try to measure, it goes back to āblink->1 modeā behaviorā¦
Sirius9, if you have a clamp meter you can pull a true current reading off the top end by making a loop between the end of the negative lead and the mcpcb. This works fine without making the driver bump down. I have quite a few working Bistroās that wonāt read current at the tail, have some that will, usually have to resort to the emitter amperage up top though.
It seems like thereās a balance somewhere between a hot 18350 and a good 18650. A hot 18650 simply allows for more power than the ATTiny25 likes with these Manker built Bistroās and some scratch built ones. Something about going from 11A to 15Aā¦
Iām gonna go out on a limb and guess that the increase in current causes more induction and stronger voltage spikes so maybe increasing the value of the input cap might control it?
I think TomE found (as did Richard) that a high value resistor on the positive input stabilized it and made it work smoothly. Like a 40,000 ohm or something like that.
Thatās a freaking great idea! Thanks! I also have a triple xp-l x6 that does the same thing, and Iāve always wondered how many amps it was drawing. I just couldnāt tell due to the driver bumping down.
, it aināt pretty but it works. I will have to open it up again in the near future to fix the e-switch the only glue I had was hotglue, not the best for a 6A XHP-50.
