SKILHUNT H03 H03R led headlamp release, 1200 LED lemens

The "R" has a very very noticable spot. If you like being able to see a defined spot or will be using this in outdoor applications like hiking and camping then you probably want the "R".

I use my H02 primarily indoors so I do not prefer the reflector version in my application. Even when I am working outdoors I have grown accustomed to the TIR.

My coworkers prefer the R and other reflector equipped lights because they like that concentrated spot.

Hope this helps

F is the finest choice

Thanks bugsy! It does help.

I will be getting the H03 (TIR).

H03F looks good, I hope I can get one from somewhere to test.

How do you know the copper star is also DTP? The only thing i can read is:

“thermoelectric separation copper star-board” which sounds like a bad translation but doesn’t sounds like DTP to me

That most likely means DTP, the thermal path separated from the dielectric layer.

The H03 just arrived to a friend of mine (he said it took just 9 days to London!) and he sent me a few pics:

Mmh. the anodization colour looks not very consistent :s

Torx screws instead of philips ones, nice :slight_smile:


That’s weird… they extended the tube a couple of mm, but didn’t thread it… so the threads are still too few like in the H02 :s I wonder what’s the point of this.


Soshine 3400 mAh


NCR18650B protected


10 mm shorter but both springs are still there, no worries :wink:

Now a couple of questions for the ones who already received it:

- He said he couldn’t manage to unscrew the head :s are your head threads glued?

- For the ones who also owns a H02/H15: do you confirm that the threads are compatible so it’s possible to lego tubes and caps between H02 and H03?? (or also H15, but just the head side, the cap side is smaller). From these pictures they look the same to me, I hope they are compatible… actually that’s the only reasone why I’m waiting to buy it for me, I want to know if I can use a the 18350 short tube I’m using on the H02.

You can't unscrew the head like H2. I have no problem to pair it with protected NCR18650B.

Mine arrived today too. yeah cant unscrew the head :frowning: It could be glue

going to be hard to mod them later

I see :frowning: I hope heating with an hair dryer will be enough :s

Yeah I didn’t mean that, I’m just saying that with the H02 one has to be more careful than with most other flashlights when screwing the cap, especially with long batteries, because the thread are just 2-3 and so the spring is already loaded when the cap threads in. The H03 looks just the same, according to the pictures above.

Got mine a couple of days ago; extremely well made and I love the beam pattern. I will use it for hiking in desert. I am looking forward to comparing it to my armytek wizard.

Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.

Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock? What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body?

And what about the current modding, sense resistor?

Brute force approach maybe?

up :slight_smile: there should be several people here owing the h02/h15 as well

I guess so, but I mean if vise+pliers are needed or if heating and unscrewing with a cloth and bare hands is enough

Tire inner tube is always a good approach, but don’t hold your pliers too tightly or there’s a risk to cut through it and scratch the anodization.
Use soft wood to hold the light in your vise.
Here is my method :

Nice tip, +1!

The tread lock is red and nasty. It took a lot to clean the threads after. I tried mek and isopropyl alcohol, but in the end I had to patiently scrape away at it trying to avoid scratching the threads.

I opened it by holding the head in my hobby vice lined with cardboard. I put a heat gun on the joint for a minute or two watching closely to avoid fading the finish. After heated I took an old leather belt, wrapped it around the tube like a strap wrench. Then I took some channel locks and gripped the belt from the side as closely to the tube as I could. I then used the top side of the channel locks as a lever pushing down against the belt as I pushed down on the channel locks. To do this I had to pry opposite of the normal prying direction of the wrench. Finally some force and it finally broke loose.

There were two R082 resistors in paralell. I added an R100 over the top. This increased the measured current from 2.4amps to 3.2amps. However, I never advise doing this as there could be negative effects or could ruin the driver.

The parts have the same threads, however the thread lengths are different. So the cap from the 02 does not cover all the threads from the 03 body