Put the R100 over one of the R500's shown here (pic from earlier):
Nice. Thanks for the picture. 
Be warned that I have not fully tested the drivers capability to handle this current.
I will have my light back together soon and i will test its ability to run down from a full charge. I semi-potted the driver, reflowed the emitter to a 16mm sinkpad, and removed the dome. Tomorrow, I just need to solder up the led leads and put it back together.
I also sanded off the anodizing where the pill lip touches the head when screwed down tight. This way I have electrical contact there so I feel better about putting some thermal paste on the pill threads. I did this to another zoomie and it worked well.
Completed modding this A2 today. I was afraid dedoming the led would make it green, but the result was PERFECT neutral white! I’m very satisfied with it. Also potting the driver has greatly reduced the hum that can be heard on the lower modes.
I just today got a light meter in the mail. I got it used in eBay and it seems nice. It has 400,000 lux range and four sensitivity settings. Anyway, I have absolutely no idea as to how to use it yet so I don’t know how relevant these readings will be?
On focus
High at 2meters is 130, 000 lux
Low at 2meters is 3,500 lux
Do those numbers sound possible? Dedomed xml2@ 3.2amps
Most throw measurements are reported at 1 meter. 130K lux at 2 meters = 530,000 lux at 1 meter.
For a dedomed XML2 at 3.2 amps and 20mm aspheric lens I’d expect throw to be 18-25K lux at 1 meter.
So yeah… I think you’re way off. Something clearly isn’t quite right in your measurements.
Ya ok thanks. I figured since I had the meter in hand that I would just point and shoot to see what would happen. I need to learn to use the thing :person_facepalming:
The difference from before and after this mod, is quite remarkable. These are two pics that don’t really do justice,but you can see the tighter beam profile. This is with an R100 resistor mod with potted driver and dedomed emitter. A side effect that is welcome but I don’t understand is the low mode is dimmer after the mod. Low is way too high so this is nice but I don’t know why.
These pics are taken with my iPhone pointed at the ceiling on the floor with the flashlight. I have a camera but I don’t know what settings to use for these kinds of pictures anyway. If someone can point me to a tutorial I can try to get better pics.
This one is al the way focused: to the eye it is night and day brighter. Bigger difference than can be seen in these photos.
This one is zoomed out in low mode till they appeared to be the same size. Maybe the dedomed version looks dimmer because it was zoomed out farther to match the size of the stock beam size?
Has anyone tried the supfire a5? I ordered a cheap one on eBay and it’s not the same quality as the a2. I’m wondering if these eBay offers are for fakes. Anyone order from a reputable seller?
My Supfire A2 is modded now almost as far as I can get it with the stock driver:
-led=dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D (good old type) on 16mm Noctigon
-blackened everything around the led with flat heater paint
-two battery springs replaced by carobronze springs (Fasttech), both soldered into the brass cup, the driver spring soldered to the driver as well.
-transferred the led+ wire to the other side of the R500 resistors.
-did not replace or shorten the ledwires, may do that at some point but I read above that the driver has its limits.
On a fresh 30Q (30 seconds) I got 3.25A,680lumen,over40kcd throw, so the led is well driven.
If only Supfire had done the PWM and mode spacing right….
Btw, hobbyking of all places has the best price
Can someone measure the charge current of the built in charging?
Anyone? I can’t seem to find this information anywhere.
I was wondering about it too, I will have a go at measuring some numbers tonight 
Thanks friend!
Ok. Good news. The charger is working correctly. I temeasured using my multimeter and got a reading of .65amps of charge current. My benchtop meter must be incorrect. I just installed it all and started using it so there may need to be some calibration to get it to read properly.
Here you can see the unit is charging and able to light up the led at the same time. Note the power reading of 9watts. This is incorrect. It charges at a bit over 2watts or .65amps.
The red indicator leds flash until the battery is fully charged.
It draws 50ua of power in standby mode. Not bad!
I mixed up some thermal adhesive to stabilize the piggybacked driver and add a small thermal path to the host.
Installing the led in a little bit!
I now have a supfire a2 zoomie with charging running Narsil and pulling 4.3amps from the dedomed origional led:) There was some uneccessary complicity to this build but I learned much. Most of all it looks as if our driver boards can run parallel to an onboard charging circuit!
Great job, I’m jealous of your A2 performance, I like that flashlight a lot, apart from the stock driver! Does this free me from measuring the A2’s charge current, as you already found it to be 0.65A ?
I think that you are right about the desirability of a BLF driver with inbuilt charging, but using it will always require a suitable host with microUSB opening, or else you will have to create one. It will never be an easy mod and at this moment only few lights are suitable.
too long for EDC in pocket…
sorry…
wle
Agreed.
I am still searching for a replacement for the Aleto N8 zoomie. It’s the shortest 18650 zoomie I could find and had decent build quality including heatsink fins. Unfortunately, I only found one supplier of it ever (on Ebay) and haven’t seen it for sale in well over a year. Wish I’d bought more of them at the time as it made a great mod host.
Supfire A2 looks beautiful and well-made, but it is far too long. I’m not sure how much length I could shave off by modding it and still have a decent looking light.
Yes. There is a lot of wasted space in the head… well, not in mine:)
Congrats on the working light. 
Amazing mod.