Sweet. That bead blasting does it for me. 
My hunting friend asked me to mod this light to infrared and make it a one cell so he can mount it on the side of his IR scope. It is a trustfire 3T6 rebrand. First pic is not mine but just for reference.
I have no idea about the output or beam profile so I’m just hoping it works ok when he uses it the first time :cowboy_hat_face:
Some cameras let you see IR light. Maybe you could check out the beam that way. 
That did occur to me but meh, I’ll wait to hear back from the owner.
Nice work there panda. 
Modded a Kronos X5 into a quad 219C!
Spacer, MCPCB and head is soldered together.
Will need to update the driver to one from RMM, since the stock driver does not like high amps. It just blinks and shuts down on turbo. Same thing happened on another triple I had and another user a few posts earlier. Works fine on low amp cells.
Ya just gotta love that little jewel right there!
I wore one virtually identical on my belt for about 5 months, the only thing that bumped it was a similar quad I made myself from scratch. Figured, when I tell people I made it that should hold true top to bottom. 
Thanks, I think the bead blasting gives a nice finish, not as coarse as sand blasting.
That would be me and triple XP-G3 S2+
Since then I found out that it works OK with Keeppower 18350 IMR cell, gets hot quickly so ti must be pulling some nice amps but when I try to measure, it goes back to “blink->1 mode” behavior…
Sirius9, if you have a clamp meter you can pull a true current reading off the top end by making a loop between the end of the negative lead and the mcpcb. This works fine without making the driver bump down. I have quite a few working Bistro’s that won’t read current at the tail, have some that will, usually have to resort to the emitter amperage up top though.
It seems like there’s a balance somewhere between a hot 18350 and a good 18650. A hot 18650 simply allows for more power than the ATTiny25 likes with these Manker built Bistro’s and some scratch built ones. Something about going from 11A to 15A…
I’m gonna go out on a limb and guess that the increase in current causes more induction and stronger voltage spikes so maybe increasing the value of the input cap might control it?
I think TomE found (as did Richard) that a high value resistor on the positive input stabilized it and made it work smoothly. Like a 40,000 ohm or something like that.
Limb broke, waah!
Dude, it was a low hanging one, you’ll be fine, you’re lucky it was over the pool.
That’s a freaking great idea! Thanks! I also have a triple xp-l x6 that does the same thing, and I’ve always wondered how many amps it was drawing. I just couldn’t tell due to the driver bumping down.
So I measured 8.6 9.4 amps on turbo. How cool that I can measure it now. Thanks DBCustom!
I often use measuring LED current draw when everything is in pieces, disassembled but I just went straight to putting this thing together, used thick, very short wires, hard to solder so I kinda wanted to avoid dissasembling it. I did try it out with only protected cell I had (NCR18650B) and it seams it works, but It was a short test, cell was mostly depleted. Next one that I will make will be triple XP-L, will measure that one for sure
You’re welcome. I like that it’s real amperage up top, at the emitter, after any driver losses.
I make sure to use the negative lead because if it manages to touch the walls of the head while testing it will only bypass the driver and go direct drive off the cell. If using the red positive lead and it shorts, sparks and smoke and damage done in that same split second your heart and stomach meet jumping out your ……
Thanks for the tip DB, and yes, those “ups I reversed the polarity” moments can be “interesting”, I fried my tablet like that (internal battery life diminished rapidly so I tosed it out and left just two leads for external battery pack) along with several step up converters that I often use for different things like driving 12V COB leds or 12V fans etc…