Jaxman Z1 Discussion

Well, I can’t take credit, I was just going to glue it in with Sugru and call it a day and in fact, did glue it in last night. But the stuff MEM has been talking about must’ve percolated while I slept and I woke up around 3AM with this idea on the soggy noodle. So this morning I got up, pulled the Sugru out, and by about 8:30AM I was out in the shop.

It was then that I discovered while ideas are all well and good, execution is another story. :stuck_out_tongue: I’m still new on the lathe, it’s work, especially with the heat, but in the end I think it’s worth it.

This is 3 pieces, with 5 areas of threading, might have bit off more than I could chew.

For someone like me, coming from hacking stuff together with a cordless drill and a Sears Rotary tool with a few files and some sandpaper, this is really flippin cool to be able to do! For folks like Hoop and TexasLumens and MRsDNF, it’s probably painful to look at. Sorry guys, but I’m plugging away at it! :stuck_out_tongue: (Honestly, how many machinists got started so out of the blue? No experience with a lathe whatsover, to making lights, it’s quite the transition and I’m probably doing it all wrong, but doing it at all is fun to accomplish!)

That’s actually quite fantastic, threading on the lathe is a pita, i turn the spindle by hand without starting the motor for most intricate threading like that.

One thing I like about this is that the secondary optic holder simply screws in to replace the black aluminum cover piece, so it’s easy to put it back into a tighter beam be simply swapping the two pieces.

I’ll probably get a nicer optic and see what that brings to the table. $35 for one I found at Edmunds. This little budget host has gotten expensive! :stuck_out_tongue:

Trade-offs and compromises.

I’m now only seeing 57.25Kcd, down from the 92Kcd previously. So while the larger hot spot is brighter overall in lumens, it doesn’t throw as far. Ugh.

The physics of it all is confusing to me. How can brighter throw less far …. Uhh….no simply don’t get it.

Or how can dimmer throw further? It’s about losses and efficiencies.

By pre-focusing the light with the first aspheric, the second aspheric isn’t bending the light as much, so it has a bigger brighter hot spot. But due to this spot being larger, it doesn’t have the specific intensity that a smaller more gathered spot would have. More lumens overall, as more of the light is captured and dispered, but less intensity due in part, no doubt, to an improper mating of optics.

The best throwers have been the smaller dies, a de-domed XP-G2 or even XP-E2, making relatively little lumens put putting it all downrange in a tight beam.

Someone needs to create a “that’s over my head” emogee :cry:

:+1: …. :wink:

Edit to add: It sure does look nice though……… :+1:

If you have a 12” water pipe, it’s really difficult to get high water pressure. But if you have a 1/2” water pipe, high water pressure is pretty easy. The small die surface acts similarly in that it’s more easily collimated to throw all it’s light output downrange. This is what the aspheric is doing, concentrating all the available light in a small column.

I’m working on my copper Z1 heatsinks today. Would y’all prefer a copper heatsink with a driver pocket that accommodates the stock 22mm driver, and so requires a brass adapter ring to use smaller ones such as 17mm drivers, or would it be ok if the heatsink is only be compatible with 17mm drivers? I figure most people will want to use 17mm drivers but the option to use 22mm MTN buck drivers and such might be appealing to some. Using a 17mm retaining ring would allow me to use the ones I’ve already got made for the s2+ heatsinks, which would be convenient for me, and also I wouldn’t have to make adapter rings either, but I’m willing to do it if people want 22mm driver compatibility.

I vote for the 17mm.

I use FET+1 at 17mm virtually all the time, almost never use a 22mm.

I would prefer a 22mm driver pocket, but will buy whatever you end up making.

I prefer the 22mm but will take what is available. (both)

I already ordered the 22mm buck driver from MTN.

A blank 22mm driver or adapter would work easy to install a 17mm driver right?
We know a 26650 cell with big button or big + contact point is not an happy combo on this size pill with a default 17mm driver and retainer ring :wink:

No, the reason this was a problem on the Cometa is because the pill was designed and made wrong. The driver was set much to deep in the pill. :person_facepalming:

Edit: I Do Not see this as an issue with a “Hoop made pill”… it will be done correctly. :+1:

That’s the truth TheMiller :slight_smile:

Thanks guys, 22mm it shall be.

Mtn makes a 22mm Fet+1 board as well.

Well I do not doubt HOOP guys :wink:
Just that with a driver retainer ring the driver will be a bit in the pill contact with cell via spring and the ring will have a inner diameter smaller then some buttons and + contact points on 26650 cells.
I think a 22mm driver hole is safer and it does not pose a problem for all who want to use a smaller then 22mm driver.

Besides safety a 22mm hole would mean more options for drivers so I think that too is an advantage.
I am trying to look at what is best for the most.
I have the LED and driver sorted out for the Z1 host (either Luminus SST90 or MTG2 for which o have drivers in 17mm (all LEDs and drivers thanks to Pinkpanda!)) and a 17mm hole would be great for me but I like options and choice for all :wink:

And I was here under the impression HOOP wanted some input what size hole to make.
But honestly when I read people already bought 22mm drivers it should be a no brainer in my book.
But that is just IMHO :wink:

Edit LOL writing at same time as HOOP.

I say 17 mm all the way, many more driver choices right out of the box than a 22mm.

Ball park estimation ( if you’ll give one :wink: …), how much cost would the 22 mm option add to each pill Hoop?