STAR Firmware by JonnyC - Source Code and Explanation

My attempt to search out an e-switch has been hindered by the fact that E-switch is also a company.

Here’s what I’m after: the ability to use a tactile switch with a 105C running the STAR firmware. The physical nature of it I can handle by machining something in a pinch, it’s the firmware aspect that I’m trying to get a handle on.

I was under the impression (based on who knows what) that this would require a MCU different than the ATTiny13a. I thought a clicky switch operated differently then a tactile switch in that a clicky physically opens and closes the circuit where as a tactile would “tell” the driver to turn on, off, etc.

Is it possible to use STAR, a 105c, and a tactile switch together?

The way you are describing a “tactile” switch is actually describing an E-switch. A tactile switch is a type of clicky switch. A tactile switch is the same as a Forward clicky as aposed to reverse clicky. The difference is that a forward clicky makes contact with power prior to latching/clicking. A reverse clicky clicks and then makes contact to power. Usually firmware is interchangeable for these two types of clicky switches. One requires you to select your mode level prior to clicking and the reverse clicky alows you to change modes after clicking and while the flashlight is latched on.

If you want an Eswitch, which is what you are describing, then you need a different firmware. Not a different mcu, just firmware. So, the 105c can be used with any of these switches depending on the firmware.

I think :wink:

That’s the way I originally understood it as well.

For the sake of clarity by tactile switch I mean a switch like this: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-switch/TL3340AF160QG/EG4627CT-ND/1885974

Ahhh… Tactile, not tactical… Ok well that is a momentary e-switch. You can use it with the 105c attached to pin 2 of the mcu or star 4. However, you need a momentary firmware. A 105c flashed for use with a clicky will need to be reflashed.

Ah ha!

Was mighty confused there for a bit.

So, I should be able to use STAR momentary with a 105C and a momentary e-switch.

Is anyone aware of a source of e-switches mounted to 17, 20mm, etc. PCBs?

I am unaware but someone may know of something. It’s usually a self job. I’ve used driver boards from cheap eBay lights I’ve had laying around. I strip it of all components and attach the switch then pot it together with my driver of choice.

Makes sense.

Was hoping for something like this with or without the spring but using an e-switch instead of a clicky.

I think the reason they are unavailable is because each lights Eswitch lines up in a different place with many sizes for hole diameter. It would be impossible to make a generic Eswitch board that would fit many lights.

When using a regular clicky switch with these drivers, all of the current flows through the switch.

When using an e-switch in the configuration we’ve been discussing would the current not flow through the switch?

I ask because I’m looking at switches on Digikey and none of them appear to have the necessary current rating.

Just wanted to double check.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/switches/tactile-switches/1114206?k=&pkeyword=&pv235=14&FV=fff40011%2Cfff8005e&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

No the curent wouldn’t flow through the eswitch. Because of that you can use very small switches and thin cables for the eswitch

+1 w/finges. I use 26 AWG or 30 AWG silicone. The two connections are from ground (BATT-) and usually pin #2 of the ATMEL MCU.

Very helpful. Because I’m a bit dense, it would be wired as below:

Ground~~switch~~>pin #2 of the MCU

Thanks

A bit late, but yes, that’s the way to wire the e-switch. Or the other way around, doesn’t matter :wink:

If you check out the text in the firmware you use(open the *.C file in a text editor), it’s usually described in the beginning which pin is the switch pin on the MCU. If it’s not described, it’s probably a clicky switch firmware.

Excellent info. Thanks

Hey guys! I’m surprised to see that STAR has stuck around this long! I’ve been out of the game for a long time, but I’m back for a little bit just to check out the amazing drivers and firmware people have created to simplify things and add features (no cap needed for off-time, adjustable turbo timeout, add temp monitoring, even a lighted tailcap).

Anyways, my question is, even though my GitHub site (Blf-firmware) doesn’t get much traffic, I’d like to update the top of the page to make note that development has stopped, and that there are so many other better options out there. What site(s) should I link to that are good starting points for people new to flashing and want a description of the firmware options and process?

- Jon

These would be a good place to start I think, TK has taken a lot of time to combine most of the firmware around.

https://code.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk

I’ve tried to gather things together and put them in one place. Basically, click the Link in my signature for the introductory page. A lot of the further details and links are in the readme in the repository, while a summary of available code is in the index file.

I would like a little help .

I flashed the firmware (dual switch) on wight’s fet driver : 17mm & 20/26/27mm single-sided DD/FET driver release: A17DD-SO8 / A20DD-SO8 / etc
and the boards i used : OSH Park ~

First question : Should i use OTC cap for memory ? Or what ?

2nd : the switch should be connected between ground and “A” or “B” ?

You can use OTC to control the timing boundary between a short press and a long press (or even short/medium/long), or with some code changes you could leave that part out. IIRC, the STAR dual switch code needs the OTC.

About connecting the switch, neither A nor B is the right spot. If I understand the driver layout, you probably need to connect the switch to ground and to pin 3 of the MCU. It’s the pin just to the right of “L+” on that last picture.

This is not the easiest driver layout to use for an e-switch light.

Input voltage is used at the calculation of the variables ADC_LOW, ADC_CRIT in STAR.c (and others?). Can i tweak the equation since the input i would use would be 12V? Thus;

But since this is mains powered, not a battery, the voltage won’t decrease. So what should i do, assign the same integer to both?