That most likely means DTP, the thermal path separated from the dielectric layer.
The H03 just arrived to a friend of mine (he said it took just 9 days to London!) and he sent me a few pics:
Mmh. the anodization colour looks not very consistent :s
Torx screws instead of philips ones, nice 
That’s weird… they extended the tube a couple of mm, but didn’t thread it… so the threads are still too few like in the H02 :s I wonder what’s the point of this.
Soshine 3400 mAh
NCR18650B protected
10 mm shorter but both springs are still there, no worries 
Now a couple of questions for the ones who already received it:
- He said he couldn’t manage to unscrew the head :s are your head threads glued?
- For the ones who also owns a H02/H15: do you confirm that the threads are compatible so it’s possible to lego tubes and caps between H02 and H03?? (or also H15, but just the head side, the cap side is smaller). From these pictures they look the same to me, I hope they are compatible… actually that’s the only reasone why I’m waiting to buy it for me, I want to know if I can use a the 18350 short tube I’m using on the H02.
You can't unscrew the head like H2. I have no problem to pair it with protected NCR18650B.
Mine arrived today too. yeah cant unscrew the head 
It could be glue
going to be hard to mod them later
I see I hope heating with an hair dryer will be enough :s
Yeah I didn’t mean that, I’m just saying that with the H02 one has to be more careful than with most other flashlights when screwing the cap, especially with long batteries, because the thread are just 2-3 and so the spring is already loaded when the cap threads in. The H03 looks just the same, according to the pictures above.
Got mine a couple of days ago; extremely well made and I love the beam pattern. I will use it for hiking in desert. I am looking forward to comparing it to my armytek wizard.
Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.
Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock? What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body?
And what about the current modding, sense resistor?
Brute force approach maybe?
up there should be several people here owing the h02/h15 as well
I guess so, but I mean if vise+pliers are needed or if heating and unscrewing with a cloth and bare hands is enough
Tire inner tube is always a good approach, but don’t hold your pliers too tightly or there’s a risk to cut through it and scratch the anodization.
Use soft wood to hold the light in your vise.
Here is my method :
Nice tip, +1!
The tread lock is red and nasty. It took a lot to clean the threads after. I tried mek and isopropyl alcohol, but in the end I had to patiently scrape away at it trying to avoid scratching the threads.
I opened it by holding the head in my hobby vice lined with cardboard. I put a heat gun on the joint for a minute or two watching closely to avoid fading the finish. After heated I took an old leather belt, wrapped it around the tube like a strap wrench. Then I took some channel locks and gripped the belt from the side as closely to the tube as I could. I then used the top side of the channel locks as a lever pushing down against the belt as I pushed down on the channel locks. To do this I had to pry opposite of the normal prying direction of the wrench. Finally some force and it finally broke loose.
There were two R082 resistors in paralell. I added an R100 over the top. This increased the measured current from 2.4amps to 3.2amps. However, I never advise doing this as there could be negative effects or could ruin the driver.
The parts have the same threads, however the thread lengths are different. So the cap from the 02 does not cover all the threads from the 03 body
thanks for sharing
It looks like a little pain in the @$$ but at least we know it’s possible to mod it, thanks!
The amount of thread lock is ... incredible! LoL.
Awesome!! no problem for the H03 cap being longer, that’s a good thing actually!
As you can see the H02 threads are a lot shorter than on most other lights… in the pictures you see H02 head and cap + Astrolux S1 short tube. I doubt the H03 tailcap would be long enough to cover the oring on the S1 tube but no problem for that, I have a spare tube that I’ve planned to mod for that purpose.
Just noticed the great review from freeme here Freeme Review: Skilhunt H03 & H03F CREE XM-L2 U4 1000lm Headlamp - incomplete (I think it’s the first and only for the moment, as long as I know)
I believe the cap from the 03 will come very close to that oring. I can check later today. I have a short tube with h02 head as well. Right now I’m using that cap from a 503b and it covers up the oring. But no magnet.