Lengthy Review of the Olight S1A Baton

Umm… 16340 and 14500 cells are generally around the same mAH ratings. 16340 is shorter in length and fatter diameter than 14500. Overall, the 14500 takes up just a tiny bit more nominal area. To me, I’d classify them nearly the same in size overall, even though that might seem counter-intuitive to some people. For run-time to be reasonable, I think where Olight has it regulated to is great for a standard retail light. I see lights at Wal-Mart and Lowe’s that are HUGE in comparison to have a similar output level to this very tiny Olight S1A Baton.

Also, with the super-compact build of this light, there just isn’t enough thermal mass to make it safe for use at much higher power levels. I don’t have a huge collection of lights, so my experience is very limited. With that in mind, I can honestly say this is the most compact built light of any kind I’ve ever seen. The whole light doesn’t look much bigger than a 18650 cell. Official Dimensions are 21mm x 79.5mm. Where would the heat go if they cranked it up? If you look at the Cree PCT, you see that the XM-L2 U3 is capable of a little over 600lm at less than 1.3A current. The whole body of the S1A gets very warm at that level. Where would the extra heat go if they even pushed it to just 2.0A current? That is still only 66% of the max current rating of the emitter, but it is over 50% higher current than where this light is regulated now. It would be too hot to hold very quickly. Olight would have to make it step down in an unreasonably short time in order to not overheat and be a danger. That high of a Turbo mode would be useless, because it couldn’t be operated for very long at all safely.

Now, considering my huge lack of experience with flashlights, there’s a good chance that I’m very wrong. Please tell me how much more power you think the S1A could handle without being a danger and without requiring an unreasonably quick thermal step down. And, if you’re not talking about upping the current, but just changing to XP-L HI (and SMO reflector) to bring about higher output - you should really look at the PCT. The XP-L HI has lower overall output than the XM-L2 at the same current level.

Good review thread, David.
Especially valuable with all of the constructive comment submissions.
Thanks BLF!

The 14500 is about 29% more volume than 16340, but that doesn’t tell the whole story as it feels much bigger because of the increased length in my opinion.

In terms of output, I was referring to usability with lux opposed to lumens. The SMO reflector and XP-L HI would be drastically improved compared to this XM-L2 with TIR in terms of usability at anything above like 10 ft while maintaining the same current. You could even reduce the current and the XP-L HI would still be much higher lux. It’s not all about lumens.

Well, nobody has yet reported how to crack the thing open.
That’s what Olight needs to understand about bringing their gear here.

We’re not here only to praise or critique — we’re here to take apart and improve.

Okay, I misunderstood what you were saying. Yes, if you’re looking for anything even slightly resembling a thrower, you don’t want the Olight S1A Baton. On the other hand, if you’re looking for pure flood, you also don’t want the Olight S1A Baton. I like the S1A because it has a beam which resides in the middle between those two extremes. To me, that’s more useful for my purpose. Your mileage may vary.

As for the 14500, it looks bigger because it is both longer and skinnier than the 16340. So, the 14500 looks like a full cell, while the 16340 looks like a half cell. But, in calculating the nominal dimensions, it is only just over 12.5% larger in volume. If you look at the mAH ratings of some of the cells at Mountain Electronics (or any other site that has a variety of cells), you will find that they are close. Some of the higher rated 14500’s have more capacity than some of the 16340’s. But, some of the higher rated 16340’s have higher capacity than some of the 14500’s as well. The 18350 looks like it is just barely any bigger than the 16340, yet it is over 30% larger than the 16340 and almost 16% larger (by volume) than the 14500! My point is that the size difference looks like a lot more than it actually is. The 14500 is a small cell. It’s an optical illusion. :smiley:

Yeah, I broke my S20-L2 by taking it apart. It’s still yet to be fixed. :cry: I won’t be taking this one apart any time soon. :stuck_out_tongue:

Well, i was contacted by Olight as well and im waiting for it to arrive, dont know if that will happen or not because most others already received the light. I already ordered some things for my first review of a light like a new tripod, a clamp with tripodmount for the light, LED bulbs for good lighting etc…

Im not that interested in cracking this thing up because im not a modder at all, all my lights are stock. Im sure many ppl here just want a review, beamshots etc. To see the guts of the light is interesting but in the end it doesnt matter to me. I appreciate it because sometimes it shows loose screwes or in case of the Astrolux S41 flaws with the screws, so i like it when somebody has the balls to open that thing because the chances are good that the light will be in a poor shape afterwards

I’m guessing all the innards of this light are pressed in from the front, and then that blue-coated bezel ring is pressed — or screwed — down over the lens to hold it all in.
Because I don’t see another seam on the body anywhere that would separate the battery tube from the head. All one piece, plus the tailcap??

Well, like I said, I won’t be taking mine apart any time soon. But, I can speculate. It’s probably put together like other Batons of the past, my S20-L2 for instance. It was much as you say. The whole pill and reflector assembly was press fit in. The bezel un-screwed from the front, and the pill could be pressed out from the back with a rod of some type. I used a wooden dowel rod. The button is also press-fit into the side. There is a tiny tactile switch installed in the pill, and the plastic side button had a piece of silicone on the back of it to press against the switch. When I pushed the pill out, it hung up on the silicone part and ripped a piece of it off. Then, the part that remained isn’t long enough to press the switch any more. If you’re super careful pushing the pill out, you may be able to get it without damaging anything. Others have done it before. Some have even modded Batons before. So, it isn’t really that difficult unless you’re me. :stuck_out_tongue:

You’re right about the volume, my math was wrong.

Thanks for the nice informative review!

About the assembly, my guesses are :

- either it’s a big S1 (most probably, given the same head length) and you can see how it’s put together here

  • or it’s a small S2 (I don’t think, see head length difference) and it’s like this

Hank, that is my plan for next weekend. I hope I do not trash the light, but I gotta get a warmer emitter in there!

Oh Boy! Don’t let us down! Tell us all the juicy details, whether it’s nice or not!

I’ve opened some pretty tight Olights with a sheet that exercise elastic in the palm of one hand, and jamming the bezel down and twisting with the other hand. You can lay on a surprising amount of torque that way, and not mark or dent the bezel.

Warming it up good in a ZipLok bag dunked in hot water doesn’t hurt either, if there’s any glue to soften - although I don’t recall any signs of glue in any of my Olights. They were just threaded, and tight.

Well no need to re-think things when the solution is a couple posts before yours (post #26) :slight_smile:
I’ve opened both S1 and S2, and there’s no twisting needed at all.

Great review! Wouldn’t mind seeing some beam shots.

I know, but my Samsung phone camera sucks for beam shots. Sorry about that. Here is mattlward’s review of the S1A. He covered a few things that I didn’t, including some great comparison beam shots!

Bravo X3 above for the links to the two disassembly videos. Reposting just to have the unobfuscated links handy:

I love it. Big knife, big hammer, careful work, and the flashlight comes apart for improving the emitter.

I hope the Olight engineers are following this and thinking, hmmm, we could make our products a lot easier to improve if we started putting them together better …

I like using big tools for such precise work :innocent:
And I didn’t even make a scratch :sunglasses: