There's space my dear, you can be sure. No caliper at hand, sorry (I'm going to check out if I find it), but great eyesight, basic ruler and common sense to align the stuff straight to my eye. Just took a more careful look at it.
Well, let's see if I'm properly understood:
Bore of the tube is 17mm, so there is a full of 17mm∅ inside, threads are wider than this.
Diameter of the tube entry, where the tailcap threaded male inserts, seems to be about 18'5mm.
Once again.
If threaded tube bore is 17mm and cell hole is 16mm, there is only 0.5mm for extenders wall. To thin as I think.
Take a piece of paper and draw how do you imagine it.
Well, I'd not go above 1'6ish amps for this torch so, if you are saying that because of the shabby tailcap spring, maybe a nice coil made of a sufficiently lavish amount of copper wire could help with that.
kiriba-ru, OP says estimated ~17mm ID and ~20mm OD of the battery tube. In other words, he’s saying that the tube looks to be already ~17mm inside, with a wall thickness of ~1.5mm. Real measurements are better, but if the cell already fits, there doesn’t need to be any more boring anyway.
I had tons of sk68 clones and I remember measurement close enought. Threads are m18x1. There is no way to fit any additional tube that will be 17mm ID.
Well, you may be right. I don’t have any way of knowing. It just seemed that you and he were talking past each other. So, I thought I’d try to help explain what he was saying. Either way, if he has both the cells and the light in his hand, and the cells fit, there can be no more argument about whether they should. But, I’m not even clear about whether that is the case, so we’ll have to wait for Barkuti to tell us.
Edit: By the way, kiriba-ru, I just want to say that your posts sometimes are hard to understand, possibly because of translation of cultural and language norms. Sometimes, the way you express yourself seems very direct and maybe a little bit gruff. But, I very much appreciate your contributions to this forum. I hope you never leave, but keep trying to help us understand things that maybe we don’t know yet. Thanks for everything!
Measured the tube outer diameter before going onto my business just before my last reply: 19mm∅ (with the perspective compensated advanced eyesight device integrated in my head -ROFL-). Tube wall thickness is probably not above 1mm. At the tailcap end the tube is machined much thicker for a few millimeters, yet anyway you can see the threads go deeper than this in:
This image matches how my clones are, except for the tailcap (with a much smaller spring).
Im not using google traslator or smth like that and I dont translate text word to word from russian. I was learning english from small years and I was able to think in english directly, but it was long time ago and I had no practice for long time. I would be happy if anyone will fix my texts and show what is wrong. But as for me messages that I read here from fluent speakers are full of mistakes. Usualy EU members gives much more attention to the rules of english language that you americans. If some member from the US sent me PM usualy there are so many mistakes that I can understand nothing.
@#$%! Evaluated this sort of crazy idea just a few moments ago; however, I think the holes are just too close to the tube wall, could be possible yet maybe too tight of a fit for screw heads and/or nuts. :((
No, not saying that your words are wrong. Different cultures and different languages have different ways of conveying thoughts and ideas. We are a multi-national forum. What I was saying before is that sometimes the cultural/language difference is so great that it makes things hard to grasp for others. I know people on here have given you grief before about things you’ve posted. So, I was saying that I hope you don’t let it keep you from continuing to post here. As far as I’m concerned, you are welcome to keep posting as you always have.
Thanks! I’ve been watching that number rise the past couple weeks and trying to figure out what to do for a GAW. I don’t have a huge collection of nice lights to draw from like so many of these guys. But, I’ve gained so much by being here, I want to give back somehow.
I’ve been able to Frankenstein together parts of SK68 and “3W Police 2AA” lights, to use 3xAA alkalines.
That has been talked about here for a long time: When it works it’s fine, you get a nice solid feeling 3xAA light with the SK68 as the bright end. site:budgetlightforum.com - Google Search“3W+Police”“SK68”
But the results are inconsistent because the “3W Police 2AA” threads aren’t reliably the same from one batch to another.