BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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Rufusbduck
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Does it close if you remove the oring? If it does then look for a thinner oring, if it doesn’t then file or sand shorter the battery tube until you like the fit. Another of the inconsistencies was depth of switch pcb seat and battery tube stop.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

congo
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Does it close if you remove the oring? If it does then look for a thinner oring, if it doesn’t then file or sand shorter the battery tube until you like the fit. Another of the inconsistencies was depth of switch pcb seat and battery tube stop.

No, it’s the same without the O-ring.
Btw, on my Astrolux the switch protrudes a little from the button guards too. Probably the PCB seat variation you said…
Rufusbduck
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If you do choose to sand the tube shorter remove the orings, place some 220 wet or dry sanpaper on a flat, smooth work surface( a piece of 2×6 or plywood will do), and sand then rotate, sand then rotate. This helps to keep it even though evenness isn’t essential. Stop before you go too far and wrap the tube with some tape to protect it, all it takes is one slip and the tube will tip onto the knurling mid stroke and ruin the deal. It’s not difficult, merely tedious and if you take measures to protect the tube from accidents it should go fine. A sheet of 220 costs about a buck.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

congo
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Thank you. I will try Smile

dracothraxus
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Updating my debugging posts for non functional BLF A6 from Banggood over pages 24 and 25 – after some back and forth Banggood sent me a new head unit and that promptly fixed things. Not sure if it’s the same tint as the original order but not a big issue – now have two fully functional A6s…

And a Nitefighter…

And whatever I buy next from Bangood…

Thanks for all the debugging help.

xlittoninjax
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Hi bought a BLF A6 and attempted the bypass spring mod and removed the spring off the tailcap. I tried solidering it back but ending up getting solider everywhere and now the light will not turn on. Is there anyway to fix this or to purchase a replacement tailcap?

Thanks

ToyKeeper
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Replacement switches can be obtained from several sources, including the US-based MtnElectronics.com if you want it quickly. I don’t recall if banggood offers the switches by themselves yet.

dudunphy
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You should be able to fix it. I’m assuming that the light worked before you did this but I’m guessing that you heated up the board so much that you opened a connection to the switch. Have you tried bypassing the switch by connecting the negative if the battery to the tube? (Check the first post of thread for a pic of this) your switch makes a connection between the retaining ring/tube and the battery negative. So be sure that the solder points for your switch are still intact.

Dustin

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Hi,

I think I have not seen this kind of misbehaviour before in this thread. I have bought a S1 in 3D and was so happy with it that I couldn’t resist to buy 3 more BLF A6 in all tints, one of them bare. Wink Two of these A6 are as expected, but one, the 5A version, behaves strange. The light was tested with fresh NCR18650B, one protected, one unprotected, both above 4.1V. The light is in 7-mode.

- switching the light on: Nothing happens, no visible light, even in complete darkness. So no moon mode here…
- now stepping through the modes with clicks until Turbo works as expected (Turbo mode may not as bright as with my S1, but I have nothing to measure.)
- next click to moon mode gives a short flash of a very low mode (maybe moon?), then again darkness as in the first mode.
- medium press goes back to turbo
- medium press goes to strobe
- next medium press: similar as from turbo to moon: one very dim flash, then complete darkness. Was expecting battery info…
- next medium press: similar to the expected bike flasher, but between the strobes the light is dark/off.
- next medium press: darkness (aka my moon mode)

Also, after pressing 15 times to get into config mode: complete darkness, no flashing to indicate mode settings.

Any idea what’s wrong here? I have not yet openened the head and seen the driver because I am a little afraid of dedooming/destroying the LED… Or shall I just ask Banggood for a head or driver replacement?

Dutcheee
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Sounds like a faulty driver to me.. I’d go for a replacement.

Flashy Mike
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ProtaBLF wrote:
- switching the light on: Nothing happens, no visible light, even in complete darkness. So no moon mode here…
- now stepping through the modes with clicks until Turbo works as expected (Turbo mode may not as bright as with my S1, but I have nothing to measure.)
- next click to moon mode gives a short flash of a very low mode (maybe moon?), then again darkness as in the first mode.
- medium press goes back to turbo
- medium press goes to strobe
- next medium press: similar as from turbo to moon: one very dim flash, then complete darkness. Was expecting battery info…
- next medium press: similar to the expected bike flasher, but between the strobes the light is dark/off.
- next medium press: darkness (aka my moon mode)

Also, after pressing 15 times to get into config mode: complete darkness, no flashing to indicate mode settings.

It might be a faulty or missing solder connection at the 7135 or pin 5 of the Attiny on the driver board. Or the Vdd Pin of the 7135 or pin 5 of the Attiny is shorted to ground.
xlittoninjax
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Hi, I recently have had problems with my A6 due to a failed spring bypass mod. I purchased a new switch and a new driver and the light will still not turn on. What are the chances I ruined the emitter and is it even possible..?

Thank you

Rufusbduck
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Can you post pictures? Many problems can be identified with them.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

xlittoninjax
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Can you post pictures? Many problems can be identified with them.

http://i.imgur.com/nQkgU8i.jpg

here is a picture of the emitter.. note that the switch and driver are brand new, I have tested the switch with my other A6 i ended up buying but dont know how I can test the driver.

Let me know if you need more pictures.

Thanks

Rufusbduck
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You can test the emitter with a battery and two wires, if it doesn’t light it’s toast. I’m assuming it worked before. If it does work then it could be a cold joint on the solder pads when you reattached the emitter wires. I’d make sure they were good before testing as the wires cover the pads. The threads on one end of the tube are anodized but not on the other so it’s imperative that the anodized end were the ano has been removed right at the edge of the tube makes contact or you get no light. You might try flipping the tube end for end.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

tonglarry1
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I want to clean up a reflector, how to find the tool for retaining rings in autozone?

dudunphy
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tonglarry1 wrote:
I want to clean up a reflector, how to find the tool for retaining rings in autozone?

The tool is called snap ring pliers.

Dustin

dudunphy
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Don’t worry about autozone. Banggood carries them. Wink

http://m.banggood.com/SD-Snap-Ring-Pliers-4-in-1-Retaining-Circlip-Tool-...

Dustin

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Got my non-anodized A6 in today, luckily no DOA issues, but some issues none the less.

 

Lots of aluminum flash/burr needed to be removed from both ends of the main body. It came right off, but caused all sorts of odd issues (flickering/mode jumping) when the light was fresh out of the box.

 

The only other issue was was some debris in the reflector, but that was easily removed by taking the light down and blowing it out. 

Rufusbduck
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Probably a good idea with any budget light to tear it down as much as possible, clean, and reassemble. There’s often bits of loose metal in places that they don’t belong. If the wires are long enough it’s not a bad idea to loosen the driver retainer and blow the hollow of the pill out as well.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

tonglarry1
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I have disassembled the retaining ring but I can’t disassembled more, how can I take the light down?

Rufusbduck
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Check underneath the driver for any other loose bits from manufacturing, maybe wipe it out with a q-tip and reinstall the retaining ring snug but not cranked hard. Also unscrew the bezel and check under the reflector for any loose bits there. Be careful not to touch the reflector surface as it’s easy to scratch and hard to clean without scratching.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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If you want to actually remove the driver you need to remove the bezel and desolder the emitter wires then pull the driver out. Why do you want to pull the driver?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

tonglarry1
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I want to clean up the reflector which has some debris inside. I need to unscrew the bezel to remove the reflector? It’s really really tight so hard to unscrew it.

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tonglarry1 wrote:
I want to clean up the reflector which has some debris inside. I need to unscrew the bezel to remove the reflector? It’s really really tight so hard to unscrew it.

It is recommended to only carefully clean a reflector with compressed air. If you touch the reflective surface with anything the chances are you will ruin it.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

tonglarry1
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Does it unscrew like this?

giorgoskok
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Yes , like this.

tonglarry1
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I don’t want to give up, but that is really really tight. Is there any tips to unscrew it?

Rufusbduck
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Latex gloves or a swim cap. Rinse off any talc powder in the gloves to keep them from slipping on your skin. There’s probably metal debris in the threads and it was over tightened. No gloves? Use a piece of bicycle inner tube.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Mine were really tight when I got them. I just wrapped them in duct tape (lots) and took 2 small pipe wrenches to them. They unscrewed in a jiffy without any marring or damage.

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