BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Does it unscrew like this?

Yes , like this.

I don’t want to give up, but that is really really tight. Is there any tips to unscrew it?

Latex gloves or a swim cap. Rinse off any talc powder in the gloves to keep them from slipping on your skin. There’s probably metal debris in the threads and it was over tightened. No gloves? Use a piece of bicycle inner tube.

Mine were really tight when I got them. I just wrapped them in duct tape (lots) and took 2 small pipe wrenches to them. They unscrewed in a jiffy without any marring or damage.

If you do that you’ll want the wrenches located over thicker parts or doubled layers like where threads overlap. Avoid the reflector area since the wrench could more easily crush that. I would reinstall the battery tube and apply the tape over both it and the pill section so the battery tube could reinforce the pill then a separate set of wraps on the bezel with the wrench located down the bezel where the pill threads can reinforce it as well. The tape alone might improve grip to the point you can wrestle it open. What 3-4 layers or more?

That’s essentially what I did. Taped over the thickest parts leaving the joint free of tape and also had the battery tube in for more support. Had at least 4 layers but I can’t recall exactly how many, and definitely as far from the reflector as possible. Using smaller wrenches is better in this case. It only took a small push on the pipe wrenches to get the parts moving. And once it did I took the wrenches off and just unscrewed the rest by hand. The important thing is to get some movement.

It goes without saying that you have to put the wrenches on the tubes so that the jaws tighten as you try to loosen the parts, and of course that means that you don’t have to overly tighten the jaws onto the tubes. If one reverses it then it’s not going to work well :frowning:

I have some lock jaw pliers I could have used as well but I happened to have the pipe wrenches in a tool box where I was and didn’t feel like going down to the basement.

Thank you for all you help. I unscrew it finally, as I used rubber band.

:+1: of course!

Hoping you can help me out here. I was stupid and put two 18350’s in my A6 and it flashed really bright and now all I get is what looks like 4 moonlight modes. Did I break something? Does it need to be reset somehow?

Working Voltage: 2.8-4.35v
It might break the driver or LED. You can order the new driver from banggood.

http://www.banggood.com/BLF-A6-A17DD-L-FET1-2_8-4_35v-74-Modes-Flashlight-Driver-p-1009980.html

Using f65358 coupon, $5 plus shipping fees.

You have to be able to solder the emitter wires. Emitter might also be damaged

I would test the emitter and drivrr first before making any orders.

and since you’re in the US, buy the replacements from mtnelectronics rather than the cheaper ones from China.
You’ll get a better-built driver, and a warranty that’s worth something.

I received my first BLF A6 on Friday, and can not get it to switch to mode memory or other mode groups. (i hate the standard next-mode set up and its finicky interface, and some times it won’t even turn on at all.
edit: i tried many, many times following the directions of the config, but can not get it to access the hidden modes, batt-check, reverse-mode switching, or go into mode memory. all it can do is switch between the 4-modes or the 7-modes groups, nothing else, and seems to be stuck in next-mode setting only.

Second edit: - i tried a hundred times, the 0.5 or sec press, and the 0.5 to 1.5 sec press, all half-press durations no matter what the time delay is, it always go to next higher mode. ( NOT backwards to the lower mode, or to the hidden modes. ) I have never gotten so frustrated in a flashlight as i have with this one right now. i believe i ended up with a DUD. gonna teat this light with a .300 Winchnester magnum resistance test soon. :rage:

Been thru that myself. Hope this helps:

After 15+ short taps, you go into so called configuration mode. After 15+ taps, light goes OFF and then there will be two sets of two blinks. The first set of two blinks toggles 7-/4-mode, and the second set of two blinks toggles memory mode on/off. You toggle a setting by turning off BETWEEN the two blinks.

To toggle mode memory, for example, after 15+ taps, light goes OFF, blink, blink, and then blink. You now turn off — before the second blink. You now set mode memory. Turn off the light. Turn on the light and go to Turbo. Turn off light and then turn on. You should now get Turbo.

Doesn’t matter what settings you have specified, it should never be next-mode memory. Something is physically wrong with that driver/light. I’d check for stray solder in the tailcap first, tben check for a good connection on the offtime cap on the driver

Tried all that many times. It does nothing to change the mode setting gs on my light.

I checked & tried everything. It is stuck with next mode memory and can not access any hidden modes or the batt check at all.