SKILHUNT H03 H03R led headlamp release, 1200 LED lemens

Just noticed the great review from freeme here :wink: Freeme Review: Skilhunt H03 & H03F CREE XM-L2 U4 1000lm Headlamp - incomplete (I think it’s the first and only for the moment, as long as I know)

I believe the cap from the 03 will come very close to that oring. I can check later today. I have a short tube with h02 head as well. Right now I’m using that cap from a 503b and it covers up the oring. But no magnet.

wait, you mean UF 503b threads match the ones of Skilhunt and Astrolux?? That would be also very interesting!

By the way, what short tube are you using? The same Astrolux I am using?

Yes, the 503 b fits and covers the oring. I don’t care for the look though. I checked the 03 cap on the astrolux short tube and it goes up to about the center of the oring where you have it place. However, the oring can be moved to the slot right after the threads and the 03 cap completely covers the oring and it fits and looks nice.

That’s some great info, thanks :wink:

No problem. I can’t give much more information though. I showed it to a friend and… Well, I have no more light. :stuck_out_tongue: I do have another one. I will be trying to open that up soon. Hopefully I can repeat the results without collateral damage. :wink:

Hey SKILHUNT, can I pay you for one of these metallic squares?
One of these:

ye i know what you mean,
i love mine, it’s light, bright, but dam that strap is tight, so much that it leaves an impression on my forehead when i take it off

one other thing is the battery compartment,
dam is that small

here’s my non edited review (so it may look like poop :stuck_out_tongue: )

size considerations
depth of battery holder/sleave 071.93 mm minus the spring (their are some tiny components on the pcb, probably about 1.2 mm in height at one side)
depth of battery holder/sleave to spring 066.62 mm (uncompressed)

negatives:
strap is a bit tight, and i only have a small head, although it’s still reasonably comfortable
battery compartment could have been a few millimeters bigger for larger protected batteries without compressing the spring to much

Some of the Batteries i’ve tried
samsung icr18650-22e sdi 64.88mm (non protected from a laptop battery someone left at the house) fits best
xtar 68.99 mm
skilhunt mm 69.71

the skilhunt BL-134 3400mAh sticks out by 3.65mm (spring uncompressed) although it does fit with a squeeze

final thoughts
a well made light, very bright, very light weight, wide angled beam which is great if you need to light up a large area no noticeable hot spots (neutral white version)
turbo is insanely bright
9.5/10
i might buy another

dam i wondered why i couldn’t undo mine by hand
note to self must not fiddle with new stuff if it doesn’t need fiddling with :blush:

just a quick question, is the driver board fixed in place with the thread?

I think I Need one … No… Scratch that… WANT one…

Who’s got a great discount code?

it’s a shame you didn’t post earlier, as bg had 12% off all flashlights from the 8-10th of September :frowning:
i’m sure their’l be other offers in future though

Ah, yes, the threadlocked H03….
Well, i ruined my battery tube, but i got it off…

Does SKILHUNT communicate here or just post new models?
Because it would be awesome if they sold a 18350 tube for the H03.
I have a Asrolux S1 BLF A6 shorty tube now, and it’s even cuter than the Olight Nova thingy, but it could be better.
Threads don’t match perfectly and i can’t put on the clip.
[edit] i use the 18350 tube of my Astrolux S1 now and it fits perfectly [/edit]
Maybe i can construct a shorty tube from the remains of the stock battery tube, but a real Skilhunt 18350 tube would rock!

By the way, the H03 is a great light.
It’s smaller and better looking than the H02

I have a H03F coming too, this is the best deal at the moment:
http://www.everbuying.net/product1194733.html

Yep, i must be mad… :confounded:

Thanks for the link Jerommel, I ordered one!

( giggles )

So, I want to bite the bullet on getting a few H03Rs to mod. The loctite on the head treads still bothers me. Does anybody have further comments on this? I’m not feeling comfortable having a 50/50 success rate on opening them up? Its 1 thing getting them open and spending time cleaning the thread, its another thing spoiling the thread.

If you heat the body there is no failing if you dont do anything stupid

The tube has flat sides so you dont need force to depend on grip of the knurling, resulting on crushing the tube
If you use a bench and small wise its really easy to open up

The head has flat sides as well easily get torgue applied

I used this to hold the tube with wood pieces to protect the tube in a horizontal orientation

And this to grip the head with cardbox to protect the head

I have opened about 6 or 7 of them now.

I line my vice with thin cardboard and clamp the head in tight. The switch boot has to first be removed. You may want to remove the lens as well and maybe the mcpcb as well. I have not bothered to remove those and have been fine so far.

I then soak an old leather belt in water and put it to the side with a pair of channel lock pliers.

I heat the body/head joint with a heat gun moving the heat around for about 30-45sec. The body should be too hot to hold all the way to the end.

I then hook the belt around the light near the joint and pinch it tight around the light with the pliers. The pliers only pinch the two ends together and are not used to grip the light. The belt will grip the light as you roll the round forehead of the pliers back onto the belt. This creates a strong strap wrench.

It takes a good bit of prying/rolling the pliers to get it to move. Once it starts moving, don’t stop or you will need to reheat to get it to move again. Most likely you’ll need to reheat a couple times anyway.

This works for me but these are the best tools I have on hand. I’m not sure if a good strap wrench will work well enough or not. If you have questions, I can try to take a picture of what I do and post it later.

I have not tried gripping the tube in the vice. I may give that way a try next time.

The vise on the tube with wood spacers worked great, just do not crush the tube by overtighten it
The spacers were as long as the smaller diameter of the tube so I used the full availiable lengh to hold it orientating the light horizontal

Have you managed to crush a tube to this point?