Iām reorder new glass (1mm)
Driver glued. I squeezed it with a screwdriver. But in the end broke the resistor R50.
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15196
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15201
Iām reorder new glass (1mm)
Driver glued. I squeezed it with a screwdriver. But in the end broke the resistor R50.
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15196
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15201
I finally finished my flashlight.
All photos here Š”Š²ŠµŃŠ¾Š“ŠøŠ¾Š“Š½ŃŠµ ŃŠ¾Š½Š°ŃŠø Šø ŃŠ²ŠµŃŠ¾Š²ŃŠµ ŠæŃŠøŠ±Š¾ŃŃ. ŠŃŃ Š¾ ŃŠ²ŠµŃŠ¾ŃŠµŃ
Š½ŠøŠŗŠµ. - ŠŠ»ŃŠ±Š¾Š¼ MSS: DQG Tiny 4th XML2 18650
LED https://www.fasttech.com/p/3505302
Glass http://aliexpress.com/item/New-flat-glass-watch-crystal-diameter-21-5mm-Thick-1mm/1097050471.html
MCPCB http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-3xp-advanced-triple-led-copper-mcpcb-2-pcs-p-763.html
TIR http://intl-outdoor.com/carclo-10507-triple-led-optic-lens-p-836.html
Serp,
That is a fantastic mod! Thanks for the great photos and especially the links to the parts you used!
I do not like only a small gap between the bezel and the housing
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15681
That gap is only a small flaw in an excellent build, take the excellence, accept the small flawā¦ Great workā¦
I am still too chicken to do more than swap TIRās in mineā¦
Nice job :+1:
What driver did you use?
I think your heatsink (is it thermal glue?) is a bit too thick. The top of your carclo sitās a bit too high for the gap to close on the bezel. Does the carclo slide all the way down? I had to sand off the edges a bit.
Or maybe you can sand down the heatsink. Or the noctigon board a bit, but that is not really nice for the already limited heatsinking maybe.
Or place an (O-)ring to fill the gap.
I donāt know these nichiaās you used. Tint looks nice. Is it bright?
Iām looking to mod a second one with the new noctigon board with the small added pad for a locator led and high cri nichiaās. Someday :person_facepalming:
Worked out nice for you! Itās really my favourite small powerhouse.
Really nice job.
Hi
>What driver did you use?
Original. Wires are soldered in place of the LED. I removed the LED on the soldering station (hot air 240Š”)
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15303
No thermal glue, only termalpast.
Optics sits right on the edge. In addition, Im made a pit under it
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15683
triple rests on a support of aluminum desired thickness
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15304
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15253
>I donāt know these nichiaās you used. Tint looks nice. Is it bright?
Not bright. Iām like it
Itās warm white led (2500-2700K)
0,01Š-0,25Š-1,05Š - after change SMD resistor R35 for R50
Turbo 2,25Š
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15254
i have had one for about 9 months
used normally
last week the switch broke off the circuit board
kind of a bad design
pushing the button strains the 4 solder joints every time you press
be prepared for it to not last forever
i emailed david, the creator, he seems sympathetic but does not offer help
so far
i can post a link to pictures of the break
wle
i used to be a fan of this light
but i have had one for about 9 months, normal use, and the switch just broke off the circuit board
this is a weak design
every time you press the button, it stresses 4 tiny solder joints holding the switch on the board
sooner or later it will fatigue and fall off
wle
Wle, that is good to know, on the III version, the switch is body mounted, and mine is still going strong. I use the IV version as a back up anyway.Thanks for the update!
body mounted might fix that problem, the IV has it on the circuit board, at the worst possible angle
iām going to fix it with a switch made of 2 wires in the air, that the button can press together
wle
It looks like a drop or two of epoxy between the body and the switch would also solve the problem.
Mike
the force of pushing the button would then be held by the epoxy - IF it stuck and did not also get tweaked loose by button pressingā¦
wle
I have a few questions about the DQG 18650 Tiny 4th that I couldnāt find answered anywhere.
1) Is the driver in the light really constant current regulated? That doesnāt seem possible since the driver board seems to lack an inductor (though I canāt find a picture of the bottom of the PCB). At best it seems like it can maintain constant current only as long as the battery voltage stays above Vf using linear regulation or high speed PWM control (though I didnāt see a MCU either). The CNQG page, just says āCurrent Regulationā. I didnāt see any runtime vs. output graphs anywhere that would shed more light on this.
2) Can it fit protected 18650ās that are ~70mm long?
1) Is the driver in the light really constant current regulated?
No, itās linear
Chip Qx7137 http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2015-09/temp_15090911368037.pdf
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/picture.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15208
WARNING
the switch design is very bad
mine just broke off
at the SAME TIME it also failed, so i could not even solder it back
i had had it about 8 months, daily use but nothing extreme
i emailed the company dude, ric, he did not seem to care
wle
WARNING
switch design is very bad
mine broke off inside the light, after about 8 months of reasonable use
AND at the same time, it quit working, so i could not even solder it back
emailed company head, ric, he did not seem to care
(near the letter āKā, is where it SHOULD be)
wle
Same thing happened to mine with only a few weeks of moderate use, bad design the switch could of done with maybe some glue from a heat glue gun or similar behind to hold it rather than reliance on just the 2 solder pins to hold it in place.
shame as I liked it alot
i think it uses 4 solder pads, but still this the WORST design.
all of the force of pressing the button goes to bending it backā¦ it is bound to fail
sorry to say
but i did like it
i bought another one when gearbest had them for $14, has not arrived yet
manker u11 is a better light, just bigger and heavierā¦
wle
Cross-reference on the switch failure, as thereās a separate thread for that also: