I received my cob lights (from the link in the OP and in Post 5). They are both nice, but I really like the pen light from the OP. It’s better than I expected. The aluminum body is thick and seems strong. I’m impressed with the amount of light this baby puts out. Very even wide flood as expected. The tint and color rendition is great. The light spreads out so wide and evenly, that you don’t have to worry about glare (Like DavidEF’s friends have said).
The magnet on the clip is fairly strong. The tail magnet is pretty weak. I can really see keeping a few of these in my car. Engine problem at night. Stick one on each side of the hood (by the clip magnets) and you got your self a nicely engine bay.
Don’t know what the run time is like yet. Seems like it may not be long with so much output. Will try to see how hot it gets and how long it runs tonight.
I guess this vendor is selling them at such a low price due to the logo. These go for much more everywhere else I have looked. I had a problem with a third item I purchased (not a light). It was the manufacturers fault. The vendor straighten out the matter on the spot for me with just one private message from me. So I ordered 8 more of these pen lights. Some to keep in my cars and a few for my parents who I know will really like them.
Thanks for this thread hank. I will probably pull one apart when I get the next order, but I doubt I mod it. Might put in more powerful tail magnet. Actually, wouldn’t mind a few modes.
I have the pile of these in plastic and aluminum. got a couple more red aluminum in the other day.
Got a pic of the tail magnet? I think it may be in backward. I do not think any of mine are weak on the tail magnet. and I think in comparison the clip magnet is weak to the tail. Tail magnet has a steel surround or a cup. You should be able to see the steel ring around the edges. If not I would say it’s in backward.
Had important things to be doing so I skipped all that and did this. I will be keeping this one. UMMM, its definitely Brighter.
If you need to get one of these apart just get a fingernail between the side of the lens and aluminum and pop it out. Rest will easily follow. Don’t forget the rubber cap on the SW. You will have to take it apart AGAIN.
Appears mine is backwards then. Thanks for the tip. Also, thanks for the tip on how to break down the light.
So, it appears that the LED has no real heatsink path to the body. Unless there is hidden circuitry in the switch (doubtful), the emitter is direct drive with 1.5 ohm resistor bank in series. There are plenty connections and thin wires that add to the resistance. Hmmm, getting some moddy ideas.
EDIT: Sorry for the multiple edits. Had trouble getting my response out of the quote.
Welcome Sir,
would like to see what you do with it. I didn’t count the LEDs or try to see what the potential voltage of the COB is. Nor try running it and check heat generated. Definitely watch the SW wire in the housing slot, putting it back together. I thought to slip some heatshrink in there but didn’t. Yeah, replace wires too, but didn’t. Certainly could add a strip of aluminum behind the COB, there is room with the spring loading the way its made.
after I got mine apart I could only assume my buddy’s light that melted the lens got shorted. Maybe burned a resistor. But his is also the plastic housing…? I will be in CT tomorrow, visiting. I have his replacement. I’ll dissect his plastic version. Spare parts…
^
IR?
Yeah, the cells used will totally determine output on these guys. Maybe pull the resistors if you know you will be using low performance cells.
I probably won’t mod my pen light much as you can only do so much with 3AAA’s as a source for power. I think these pen lights are fine stock. I may do the mods discussed by vwpieces above. What I would like to do is build high performance 18650 version with DTP, a driver, and a glass lens. I like DavidEF’s Scratch Build idea even more now after using one of these.
Originally when I got into these AAA lights, my search was for “18650 COB”. I really had a hot nut for an 18650 version. Panning through pages of google images, I could only come up with one of These Bendy Lights
I bought one. Can’t recommend it cause the threads are not too good, tiny wires through the flex will break off. It works and I use it for lighting fine work on the bench. Magnet is good.
I am all over DavidEF build. It follows what I was originally looking for.
I subscribe to this guy in the Tube. AvE. Entertaining to watch his vids. He made something similar to what I was searching for. .
^
Great info vwpieces. That flex neck light is less then $6. Is IR really thin and cheap feeling? Seems like IR might be worth $6 just for the host.
But of course. Thanks for the help. IR helped a lot.
It does sound like a fun challenge, but I’m set on using the Oxygen Tank some how. Seems the main concept of the Larry light is convenient close up lighting. Imagine the size of magnets and clips needed for an O2 tank sized light? Only Godzilla could wield it with ease and he already has his own built in lighting ability. Although, his method may counterproductive in the near field.
I also bought one of the red plastic ones from Gearbest. Paid a tad over $3.00. Great little work light! Plastic is thick, the magnet holds fast and the overall quality is very good.
I’ve used it a couple of times under the hood of my car and it’s a keeper! In fact it’s replaced a much more expensive and much larger work light that I carried in the trunk of my car. This little jewel disappears in my glove box.
There are 19 points (could be 18 depending on what is inside the switch) where electrons transfer from one part to another part. 28 if you count solder as a component. If you can identify them in the following pictures, you are on your way understanding what you need to do to figure out how to solve your flickering problem.
To get you started, you could by pass the tail cap. If the flicker stops, you have narrowed the problem down significantly. If it still flickers, you can by pass the tube that connects to the tail cap. If it still flickers, you are at a point were you have to disassemble the light to find the issue.
Alkalines have higher voltage, but limited current output capability. Eneloops are capable of high current output, but have less voltage. In a direct drive light like this, Eneloops will make a brighter light in most situations. Possibly not when the Alkalines are fresh, but that is for a brief period. Alkalines will continually decline in output from the start. Eneloops will maintain a relatively consistent output and drop off sharply at the end. So the answer is probably mixed, but most times the Eneloop will kick the Alkaline's butt by a big margin.
They are out there cheaper. Mine was about $4 there were several on Ali. No reason I linked the one I did. I won’t say do not buy it but it is a $4 light. And worth $4… if it was$10 I would say no way.
Also saw some cool COB plastic versions with USB chargability. Sleeker design too. I an away and on my phone so links and stuff will be on hold.
I am in CT, now. Buddy threw away the melted light, no parts. Also scammed an aluminum one from me.shouldn’t have shown him mine. He will still break it. Told me he dropped the melted one in antifreeze, that was the last of it.
Sign him up as a reviewer for all these eager companies that are coming here to give away flashlights.
They deserve honest evaluation by a typical customer like Buddy.
