I could use one of these at work, need a good 24V capable power supply! Great review, thank you for the time spent writing it up and posting the pics…
Thanks for the review :+1: Good info to have :student:
Glad that someone finds this useful!
Oh yeah, I forgot to post the link to the aliexpress store that sells these
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/923042
They have some neat voltage meters and other toys as well, I am using one of the 2 wire volt meters on my battery charging bank so I can see the exact voltage of the cells that are charging and I can simply insert a cell real quick to take a voltage reading.
If anyone wants I can upload the template I made for the acrylic case, although you will most likely have to edit it to match the fan and power switch you use.
The stock fan is a 5V unit BTW, so an extra fan should also be 5v. In my case I only had a 12v laying around, it still works but naturally it doesn’t blow as hard as I would like. The fans also appear to be PWM controlled as they increase speed when it gets hotter.
If you do make a box like this know that hot glue works great but looks bad. lol
Also don’t glue on the top panel, that way you can get back inside should you need to at a later date.
Sweet build and info Texas_Ace. BLF all the way.
How do you cut the plexiglass to size? I think I cut some once with a sabre saw and it was a fairly messy process.
Nice review and well build equipment!
Just one question, why didn’t you solder the connections? It will make it a lot more reliable, and has lower resistance.
I am lucky to have access to a laser cutter which is what I use to cut basically anything but metal. It works great and is perfect every time once you have the settings right. There are places online you can order them from as well but more and more “makerspaces” are popping up at libraries and other places around town.
You can check and see if there is a local one near you. Or even there are lots of guys on craigslist that will do laser cutting as well. The acrylic can be purchased from home depot.
Everything is soldered actually, the connectors are used for the banana plugs partly due to those cheap plugs melting if you try to solder directly to them and to make them removable if needed at a later date. They are soldered to the wire though. I tested it and there was basically no resistance between the connector and the plug so I was not worried.
I could not figure out a better way of describing that without making a long post even longer.
Basically to adjust the voltage/currant you press the set button (or the volt/currant button on the DPS) and it starts the first digit of the volts/current setting blinking.
While it is blinking you can adjust it with the control knob. To go to the next digit you press in on the control knob.
The issue is that after about a minute on the DP but only a few seconds on the DPS the digit stops blinking and in order to make another adjustment you have to press the set button and scroll over to the digit you want again.
Not a major deal but quite annoying when making lots of changes to the same digit.
Far as course/fine adjustment it is not a potentiometer, it is a digital control wheel. Each “click” of the wheel around, moves the selected digit 1 point +/-. You can select whatever digit you want to adjust so it can be as fine or course as you want it to be.
Each spin of the wheel feels like 40 “clicks”, so you could move the digit by 40 points if desired in a single spin (it will automatically adjust the next digit to the left accordingly once you reach 0 or 9 respectively and keep turning the wheel)
Nice build. Thanks for posting it up. :+1:
Great information!!! Very very valuable to just about everything we do in flashlights.
Thanks again!!! 
:+1:
Glad people are finding it useful! It was so much value for the money I just had to share it.
Thank you very much for your picture . yes, this is my poduct DPS3012 (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/RD-DPS3012-Constant-Voltage-current-Step-down-Programmable-Power-Supply-module-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/32685179404.html?spm=2114.12010108.1000023.36.j3OU6C) and DP50V5A (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DP50V5A-Constant-Voltage-current-Step-down-Programmable-Power-Supply-module-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/923042_32596330856.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.41.ggrhsq). the quality is very good , we design this . we are manufacturer
if there is anyone like it , you can go my shop to tell me , I give you 2-3 usd discount …
and this is powerful one DPS5015 (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPS5015-Constant-Voltage-current-Step-down-Programmable-digital-Power-Supply-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/923042_32702714880.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.37.QcZ5nX)
Please contact me
we are designer. if you like it , you can go to my shop. when your order , you can leave a message to say you are from BLF. I will give you 2-3 discount for you except DPS5005
DPS3012 (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/RD-DPS3012-Constant-Voltage-current-Step-… (link is external) (link is external)) and DP50V5A (Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com (link is external) (link is external)).
and this is powerful one DPS5015 (Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com (link is external) (link is external))
Please contact me
24V? what’s your current range? , there are 3A, 5A, 12A,and 15A, which you need
we are the designer . we can tell me , I can help you to choose
Good to see another manufacture personally getting involved with BLF! I think someone must have sent you a PM?
You can view and reply to PM’s by clicking the “messages” link on the left hand side of the screen.
While you are here I did have an idea that would be very unique and useful for these high powered power supplies.
It would be very cool if you have a separate voltage sensing input for the unit. This way you could connect it to the end of the main power leads and read the voltage after all the voltage loss in the wires.
Here is why:
For example I am using 14 gauge leads that are 1m long. They loose about .03 volts per amp, so if I am sending 10 amps through the wires it drops .3 volts or so. if I used cheaper leads the voltage drop can be as high as .15 volts per amp which would be 1.5 volts @ 10 amps.
If you had a separate input for sensing the voltage with a separate pair of wires then the power supply could automatically adjust the voltage so that the voltage at the end of the wires is always correct.
My RC battery charger does this and it works VERY well and greatly improves accuracy and performance, particularly with low quality wires.
This would be a revolutionary feature.
^
The above seems a lot to follow in a different language.
I would like to hear what he might have that could utilize the power of one of these (51.x volts and 57 amps of clean power):
Very true, I could not figure out how to simplify it though.
Those are the big boy power supplies!
WOW! 3000W lol!
Nice find IA4W, very reasonable price too, thanks!
PS: Bunny is doing great, I’ll have to post an update in your thread when I get a chance.
Texas_Ace,
One of the reviews on the Ali store says the higher amp units aren’t as accurate in regards to V displayed as the lower A units, has this been your experience?
There is very little to go on for these in regards to reviews so I want to say thanks for bringing these to our attention and taking the time to do a write-up, it’s very much appreciated.
-Michael
That was most likely my review you saw. Same as I mentioned here the 3012 is slightly less accurate then the 50v5a but only slightly and it is stated in the specs that it would be.
Basically the 50v5a has 3 decimal places where the 3012 & 5015 have 2 decimal places is what it boils down to. This is not a negative at all, simply different specs.
For flashlight use this is unimportant IMHO, now if you are dealing with something that it would be important, then sure, get the lower amperage but better speced version. So far everything I have got from them has been within the stated specs so I am more then happy.
Probably was, there aren’t any reviews out there for the 5015, and only a couple for the smaller units. Found a pretty good YouTube review for one of the smaller ones.
As far as the dual input V input you suggested, a different option, that might be easier to implement, would be to have a fine adjustment pot for the voltage output. That way you could wire up any type of leads you want, and adjust the voltage until it matched what you actually have at the cable ends. That would work for a lot of different wire sizes and leads, because everyone’s is going to be different in a project like this where you have to make your own. And for those that don’t want to, or aren’t comfortable with adjusting it, it could simply be set to read at the unit from the factory, that way it’s essentially be unchanged from how it works now. But it’d be a great benefit for those who are comfortable tweaking it a little.
Does that sound like something that would work or that could be implemented by the manufacturer?