Cool!
I NEVER thread with that fast speed, always use the lowest my lathe will run. I suppose a stop would make a lot of difference, probably still would use a slower speed. (scared of a crash, mine has a 1HP motor, capable of seriously screwing stuff up!)
I wasnât sure if I should be going that fast but it was a test piece so I wasnât bothered too much.
Itâs not about the piece being threaded, itâs about crashing the machine and breaking the slide or the holder or at the very least destroying the threading insert. A crash will usually ruin integrity of the slide, making it sloppy so youâll never have accurate cuts again and it can yank the piece out of the chuck and send it flying, crashing into other components or you, doing extraneous damage in addition to whatâs done to the lathe. Hence, machinists missing fingers or blind in one eye.
Honestly I wasnât that worried about crashing. Another way is to position the cutter on the back side of the work piece, set the chuck in reverse and work away from the chuck.
I was warned against that, as a jam would unthread the heavy chuck and send it flying, most likely crashing the ways and ruining the lathe.
Very clever. that would be good for doing internal threads . TL recommended threading backwards somewhere here. I think it was in relation to blind internal threads. :+1:
I do everything backards! :question: I learned from an Aussie!!!
I do cut all my internal threads from the inside of the part to the outside. Even threads cut on my CNC lathe as it helps with tool clearance at the turret and both manual and CNC cutting in reverse drags the swarf out of the partâŚ.most timesâŚsometimes⌠ummmmâŚ. when it wants to!
This will generally work FOR THREADING ONLY even on a lathe with a screw on chuck. Heavy reverse direction cutting (boring, drilling etc) will un-screw a thread on chuck most times even if the chuck has a lock. For D5, D4 etc chucks, it doesnât matter. The tool drag on threading is so light you can get away with it. Remember as well that on some manual lathes, you need to reverse the lead screwâŚothers⌠the lead screw reverses when the rest of the machine reverses.
Now it gets confusing⌠If you are cutting RIGHT HAND threads in reverse direction⌠you need a left hand tool and insert⌠or grind a left hand tool. I have always said that the hardest part of threading on a lathe is choosing the tooling. I hope this can help. TL
Built another Eagle eye X6 triple XP-L, and an X6 with single XP-L, and squeezed in a small led voltmeter in a Liitokala Lii100 charger to fast check my batteries voltage.
Thanks TL. Your ears must have been burning. 
but only if you want a left hand thread or you have a upside down toolâŚ
Hehe for left hand thread tool is on the near side, chuck spinning normal and lead screw working away from the chuck.
One of my first attempts at threading ended up being left hand thread. :person_facepalming:
Need to be attentive with this stuff :nerd_face:
Did some LED swaps today, removed the XML2 U3 3D from the Convoy M1 and installed XPL V6 3D there because this one has lower Vf, U3 was pulling only 3.9A from 30Q, the XPL is running at 5.5A with fresh 30Q.
Then i opened my S1 Baton, removed the stock led, and reflowed the U3 3D that i removed from the M1, this little guy was pain to open without damaging it, but slow and steady did it, now i can enjoy my favorite tint in the S1, yay
So, what was your tool of choice to open that tiny S1 ?
Nothing special, started with thin razor blade, and then progressively worked my way up until i had enough gap to put the sharp edge of a Sanrenmu 710 in there, after that was easy, just pry the bezel ring and try not to scratch the anodizing or that lovely blue colored bezel 
Razor was this kind, donât know how they are called in English
Yeah well thatâs what I used when I opened mine too, for those of you who didnât see it here is a video :
Very nicely done. :+1:
I finally got around to finishing an S2+ today.
The driver is my first H17f. I like the program options, but do not like the lack of reverse⌠Not sure it will stay in it. I used one of the new screw mount copper pills from Hoop. I love it! For the LED I used my standard XM-L2 4C Noctigon mounted, love the tint on this one.
Results⌠not as hot as I expected⌠2.93 amps at the tailcap. But, overall nice light. Have not tested the pid function yet. Oh, flame treated ss pocket clip as well.
I did not exactly did this today.
It also isnt a flashlight, its a laser but i thing some of you guys might like it.
i made a rebuild of a 660nm laser to a 1W 638nm and filmed it.
Enjoy!
DenTilloZie
Exactly the same tools, lol Havenât seen the video until now but i guess we had the same idea and it works
Just received this ZHISHUNJIA Mini Flashlight 3 mode.
Itâs the brightest and easy to use $5 light Iâve seen.
I fabricated a âdummy batteryâ charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.
