I do everything backards! :question: I learned from an Aussie!!!
I do cut all my internal threads from the inside of the part to the outside. Even threads cut on my CNC lathe as it helps with tool clearance at the turret and both manual and CNC cutting in reverse drags the swarf out of the partâŚ.most timesâŚsometimes⌠ummmmâŚ. when it wants to!
This will generally work FOR THREADING ONLY even on a lathe with a screw on chuck. Heavy reverse direction cutting (boring, drilling etc) will un-screw a thread on chuck most times even if the chuck has a lock. For D5, D4 etc chucks, it doesnât matter. The tool drag on threading is so light you can get away with it. Remember as well that on some manual lathes, you need to reverse the lead screwâŚothers⌠the lead screw reverses when the rest of the machine reverses.
Now it gets confusing⌠If you are cutting RIGHT HAND threads in reverse direction⌠you need a left hand tool and insert⌠or grind a left hand tool. I have always said that the hardest part of threading on a lathe is choosing the tooling. I hope this can help. TL
Built another Eagle eye X6 triple XP-L, and an X6 with single XP-L, and squeezed in a small led voltmeter in a Liitokala Lii100 charger to fast check my batteries voltage.
Did some LED swaps today, removed the XML2 U3 3D from the Convoy M1 and installed XPL V6 3D there because this one has lower Vf, U3 was pulling only 3.9A from 30Q, the XPL is running at 5.5A with fresh 30Q.
Then i opened my S1 Baton, removed the stock led, and reflowed the U3 3D that i removed from the M1, this little guy was pain to open without damaging it, but slow and steady did it, now i can enjoy my favorite tint in the S1, yay
Nothing special, started with thin razor blade, and then progressively worked my way up until i had enough gap to put the sharp edge of a Sanrenmu 710 in there, after that was easy, just pry the bezel ring and try not to scratch the anodizing or that lovely blue colored bezel
Razor was this kind, donât know how they are called in English
The driver is my first H17f. I like the program options, but do not like the lack of reverse⌠Not sure it will stay in it. I used one of the new screw mount copper pills from Hoop. I love it! For the LED I used my standard XM-L2 4C Noctigon mounted, love the tint on this one.
Results⌠not as hot as I expected⌠2.93 amps at the tailcap. But, overall nice light. Have not tested the pid function yet. Oh, flame treated ss pocket clip as well.
Itâs the brightest and easy to use $5 light Iâve seen.
I fabricated a âdummy batteryâ charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.
Cool. If you plan to use the light a lot you could splice some wires and a TP4056 charger board (or similar) and have a single wire with USB on one end, a charger in the middle, and that little adapter plug on the other end.
putting together convenient charging options is quite fun.
I think my favorite was whoever did the Listerine strips charger. Was is 4wheeler? Canât remember now
I think this $5 light could become my favorite pocket light.
Looks good, feels good, and switch is conveniently located. The shape of light makes it easy to find switch and you can rotate clip to put it where you want.
The clip is secure; attaches to denim seams and pocket shirts equally well.
Took the lens off for cleaning but havenât been inside pill head. It looks easy to dissemble though.
I donât like user interface. Specâs say forward clicky. It is a nice firm click to turn on high â click again to go to low â click again to go to rapid flash â and click again to turn off. (no half press)
Charge port is live with battery voltage all the time (off or on). I plan to use the port and save my threads.
Bought this $5 light to get the host; but, like it so much Iâm having second thoughts.
