Exactly the same tools, lol 
Haven’t seen the video until now but i guess we had the same idea and it works
Just received this ZHISHUNJIA Mini Flashlight 3 mode.
It’s the brightest and easy to use $5 light I’ve seen.
I fabricated a “dummy battery” charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.
Cool. If you plan to use the light a lot you could splice some wires and a TP4056 charger board (or similar) and have a single wire with USB on one end, a charger in the middle, and that little adapter plug on the other end.
putting together convenient charging options is quite fun.
I think my favorite was whoever did the Listerine strips charger. Was is 4wheeler? Can’t remember now
What do you say about host quality, shelf or pill, is it mod friendly?
I think this $5 light could become my favorite pocket light.
Looks good, feels good, and switch is conveniently located. The shape of light makes it easy to find switch and you can rotate clip to put it where you want.
The clip is secure; attaches to denim seams and pocket shirts equally well.
Took the lens off for cleaning but haven’t been inside pill head. It looks easy to dissemble though.
I don’t like user interface. Spec’s say forward clicky. It is a nice firm click to turn on high – click again to go to low – click again to go to rapid flash – and click again to turn off. (no half press)
Charge port is live with battery voltage all the time (off or on). I plan to use the port and save my threads.
Bought this $5 light to get the host; but, like it so much I’m having second thoughts.
Hope this helps!
Great!
Keep us posted
If you want to mod the S2 (I don’t know if you have one), here is a video as well :
Due to the arrival of the new little half cells (26350) I did some shuffling around between a couple of Convoy lights.
I had the L6 with XHP-70 and a 2 cell tube for 2 26650’s and a tactical ring, the stock light with an output bump to some 4600 lumens. I also already had an L2 with XP-L and Bistro driver, single 26650 cell tube. So today I got busy and did some swapping and modifications such that the L6 now has a single cell length tube with 2 of the 26350 cells, the tail cap is off my L2 and has been bored to allow an 26700 cell to fit, perfect for working with 2 26350’s.
So now the L6 with it’s larger head has the appearance of the L2 in short form. Love it!
Then I modified an LD-2 driver for the L-2 light, put an E4 1D XHP-35 in it with the 2 cell tube from the L6 so it holds 4 of the 26350 cells. These little cells are 2000mAh in capacity, so now the 12V emitter is taking some 2.8A and I’ll still have close to an hour run time and great throw, but considerably more lumens over the XP-L in this light. I have all 6 of the short cells on the charger now so I can get some readings.
Pretty neat that my big Convoy is now the small one and my small Convoy is now the big one. lol Confusing though, I know. lol
Edit: The charged 26350’s did a tail current of 3.13A to the XHP-35 E4 1D HD emitter for 2986 lumens and 170.25Kcd at over 800M throw, I’ll take it!
Convoy S2+ 4C tint, lighted tailcap with 2 red LEDs, and FET driver
I had no idea that had a press fit (and adhesive?) bezel. Do the other model Olights also have a press fit? Or do some have threaded bezels? If screw in, which ones?
Thanks.
Not really a light… but I added magnets and a meter to one of my Lii 100’s. Love these things!
Nice mod with the charger. :+1:
Those silly little volt meters fit inside very well. Got to get one of the 3 wire ones, then it will display voltage below 3 volts.
Nice. I did basically the same thing with my light saber, because taking the battery out is kind of a huge pain and risks damaging the internals. Also, it has no true “off” switch otherwise; I have to put in a non-conductive “kill key” to cut power.
B58U waterproof test
Sure thing! Just purchased two, I hope they prove good for modding and gifts. $2.5 is a steal for nice host.
A Ray Bow RB 501,
a budget two zone zoomy, with advanced TIR + aspheric optics, from Taobao.com https://world.tmall.com/item/15302013715.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.JDDdGF&skuId=57727356140, via an agent. The head slides on two o-rings, and it is generally very well built for an un-shipped price of around $5 with battery. See New or little known multi-zone (Fresnel) zoom optics.
This is just a driver and LED swap, but with a lot of details. Yesterday is the first time I built a Wight FET + 1 x 7135 driver. I have been getting them from BangGood and already built from Richard, because they looked hard to assemble. This one is with a board from OSH Park and a kit from Mtn. Elect. It looks a little crooked, but it works.
I also had to file a 16 mm. Noctigon down to 8 mm. The old star was put in place with rubbery thermal compound, so I used thermal epoxy. I didn’t file the pillar of the pill shorter, so I had to add an o-ring spacer to get it to focus, even though it had travel to spare before. The Noctigon added over a mm.
That is an XP-G R5 4C. I put heat sink compound on the pill threads and the front slide o-ring, as usual.
Added: The driver started having problems soon after I wrote this. It may be my build or the narrow ground ring. I plan to try a BangGood A6 driver in it. It worked really well when it worked and was, briefly, among my best lights.
August 20:
Because the narrow ground ring may have been the problem, I switched to a Qlite 11 x 7135 driver.
A problem remained that it went out, without changing modes, when the optics touched the dome of the LED. I added a 2nd o-ring spacer and partially de-domed the XP-G with file. It works now.
Next time: BangGood driver or Nichia LED, less solder between LED and star, file the pillar flat and 1 mm. or a bit more shorter. De-dome.
It seems to be not as bright as it was with the FET driver, but it works. The file de-dome seems to have made the spot smaller.
It seems not bright enough for the current it draws. Maybe the LED is damaged. I am changing to a Nichia LED that may work better and will draw more current. The pill is only about 1 mm. thick at the top, so I can’t file it to make up for the extra thickness of the direct thermal star.
I modded the Skilhunt H03F.
First I removed the Noctigon baseplate with a XM-L2 8B4 HICRI that was monuted on my H02.
Then I soldiered on the H03F and checked if it worked.
All good, exept that the Noctigon was too large to lay flat in the head of the H03F.
So I removed the Noctigon from the H03F, I did re-flow a XM-L2 7C1 on the H03F original baseplate and reinstalled it.
Then, instead of putting the H03F toghether as original, I used the TIR optic from the H02, and I gave the H02 the reflector from the H03F.
Now I will use a lot more the H03 and I can still use the H02 (that now is a H02R).
I had one UF-1504 leftover that had a Nichia219C and LD2 driver, that never had good throw. I redid the mod today, and now it still has its high current forward clicky (‘6A Ebay-switch’ I prefer a reverse clicky but this 1504 first gen. switch design does not fit a standard switch-board), and a BLF-A6 driver and dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D. For what it is worth for a thrower, the tint is pretty nice, much better than the much used (and now unavailable) S4 2B, and the throw is also really good, I measure 486 kcd at a current of 4.1A on a Keeppower 26650 IMR 4200 mAh, 30 seconds after switch-on.
I think that the mods are well done, with a high amp switch, neat spring bypasses, ledboard soldered to pill, area around the led-die blackened, very clean beam in spot mode. The body does not look mint anymore though, decent enough, but the ano is not perfect on some edges anymore.
In the end I like the impressive throw but still find the light too heavy to take on trips.
