UF-1504, 1503, 1505 - multiple LED's tested for throw (just what you have been waiting for!!!)

Thanks. I may try to have something built or modded…

What would you recommend for a small die super thrower approaching 500 Kcd ?

Uniquefire 1508 with 74 mm lenses.

Owner of this thread has them so you could ask him…

So, I just put in an order for the 1508 with 75mm lens and a spare pill.

Not seen data yet as to driver or LED STAR diameter for the 1508. Anyone have any ideas ?

Nice engineering Djozz.

So that thing will throw what from 1 Kilometer to 1 mile ? !

Awesome is that a focusable head and how much to make another one ?If you have time and interest of course…

Thanks.

Hi robertkoa, you did inspire me to redo the mod properly today, but it being my farthest thrower still, I’m reluctant to part from it.

I may re-mod my second 1504 (which is a shortened 1405) one of these days with the same parts and then sell one to you. As for the costs, the parts were about $50 altogether and shipping to the US (?) is $27 with tracking.

Anyone have beam shots of these lamps as in the thread title?

I have just received two 1508’s with 75mm glass ( both broken edges) from Shenzhen Homesafety Electronic Co.
The lenses still fit and are not cracked in the middle, only around the mounting. They are sending me new lenses.

But the beam, with huge rings, is an …. abortion.

I did create a thread just for the 1508 , but here are a few beam shots to save any one else wasting their money

All shots quickly grabbed with the iPhone.

Beam shots at 2 o’clock this morning
Standard OEM LED with dome

Poor iPhone Beam shots

At my feet on grass.

On a wall 6 foot away, maximum flood

On a wall 6 foot away, maximum zoom

Yuk, that’s bad.

Those glass aspheric lenses for flashlights are all made in a mould, not ground to shape. Therefore they all have to some extend surface irregularities, it is hit or miss how much, it is very far from optical grade and even my Sunwayman aspheric flashlight clearly has a less than perfect lens.

You must have one of the worst examples of them all, or perhaps all the 75mm lenses in the 1408’s are exeptionally bad quality.

Btw, the maximum flood on your light looks ectremely narrow.

Yep very narrow.
here is very quick un edited in camera jpg shot indooss just now on my bed.
I have two of these , identical, one is set to max zoom, …just about to drop off the thread, the other max flood.

I have shot a load of others, of the pill etc, that I will put up on the other thread I mentioned earlier

OK, so they have sent me two new lenses…DHL on their way.

So the recommendation seems to be an XP-G2

what is the max safest current I can drive this at? I see 4 amps being mentioned before, but was this with any specific cooling? more than the ‘standard’ pill to body heat transfer?

the pill is brass, but with collars on it, so not maximum pill to case heat transfer unless I may be fill the groove with compound. and the thread also?

Any one recommend a buck driver that has NO components on the spring side? 17mm have up to 22 mm depth in the pill.
Like to run 3 series lipo Cant see one on Mountain Electronics, and a brief FastTech search did not reveal any either.

17mm buck driver, 3S input, 4A output, no components on spring side. I think that's something that doesn't exist! The pill is brass so solder something in.

Funnily enough I did solder one in on another pill, but though I’d ask the question , as screwing it/clamping ig with collar is so much easier if things go wrong

OK, then so can you point me towards a 3s buck driver in 17mm J can solder in that gives 4-5 amps

MTN-MAXlp HP

I’ll have to check the spec on that one again. I thought I read it was only good for 1amp, as replacement for OEM driver

How the hell did I miss that ! I trawled Richards site a few tkmes before pisting, and FastTech… doh

OK, so settled on the MTN Max HP as suggested, that I should have seen myself any way.

So now to choose the LED.

What I need to decide is which LED and what max driver current

Before I go and make a mistake can someone tell me if this will be OK, trying to go after max throw…tint un important to me at the moment.

From my reading this thread the XP-G2 seems the one to go for de domed. Or the XP-G3 ?

I guess getting Richard to do the de dome for me is the safest bet! I have had success de doming in the past , but have also killed two or three too.

I will be ordering from Richard at Mountain Electronics as he will be sending my M6 back shortly, so hope he can include all in the same box.

XP-G*’s that Richard has on his site are:
XPG2-1D
XPG2-S3-3D
XPG2-S4-2B
XPG3-S5-3A

I was planning on ordering the driver at a 4 amp max…could I go higher. This is in the 1508 host

Think I’ll be .running 3 series 18650’s ?

I have spare pills so will keep the original pills as standard and play with the others for comparison beam shots

Hopefully this tread isn’t dead…

I’ve bought me a 1405 and I’m about to mod it, and Mtn-maxi driver for sure…and probably this led:

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpg2-s2-1d-led-p-838.html

Any thoughts??
And is there other things to consider?? Like new high current switch e.t.c.

Morty.

XP-L V6 1A
Hot Dedomed – 107900 lx at 5.82A for 361 kcd

XP-G2 S4 2B
Hot Dedomed – 137000 lx at 3.76A for 458 kcd

XP-G2 S3 1C
Hot Dedomed – 127000 lx at 4.05A for 425 kcd

Can someone help me understand why the hot de-domed XP-G2 is so much brighter than the XP-L… despite drawing less current? Aren’t these two emitters using the same die?

thanks!!

XP-L die size is the same as XML-2.

Oh OK… got it. thanks

How about that mtn-maxi with 12v ramp to drive the xhp35hi in this tourch?

Any thoughts?