Review of DP50V5A & DPS3012 bench top power supply modules, best bang for the buck around!

Batteries and Chargers Chargers
23

That was most likely my review you saw. Same as I mentioned here the 3012 is slightly less accurate then the 50v5a but only slightly and it is stated in the specs that it would be.

Basically the 50v5a has 3 decimal places where the 3012 & 5015 have 2 decimal places is what it boils down to. This is not a negative at all, simply different specs.

For flashlight use this is unimportant IMHO, now if you are dealing with something that it would be important, then sure, get the lower amperage but better speced version. So far everything I have got from them has been within the stated specs so I am more then happy.

24

Probably was, there aren’t any reviews out there for the 5015, and only a couple for the smaller units. Found a pretty good YouTube review for one of the smaller ones.

As far as the dual input V input you suggested, a different option, that might be easier to implement, would be to have a fine adjustment pot for the voltage output. That way you could wire up any type of leads you want, and adjust the voltage until it matched what you actually have at the cable ends. That would work for a lot of different wire sizes and leads, because everyone’s is going to be different in a project like this where you have to make your own. And for those that don’t want to, or aren’t comfortable with adjusting it, it could simply be set to read at the unit from the factory, that way it’s essentially be unchanged from how it works now. But it’d be a great benefit for those who are comfortable tweaking it a little.

Does that sound like something that would work or that could be implemented by the manufacturer?

25

Sadly this would not work. The voltage reads dead on as it is if you just connect it to a multimeter. The issue is that once you start pumping current through the wires you get a voltage drop. The voltage drop can vary by a significant amount just based on how you inserted the lead plugs for example.

You could have some kind of voltage skew in the firmware that would automatically skew the voltage by .x volts per amp, this would get you much much closer and is actually a pretty good idea. Would be really easy to add as well.

but to be exact it would have to take a separate voltage reading. There is simply no other way as it can not know what is going on at the ends of the wires otherwise.

26

I hear you. I struggle with the same thing. It’s not the concepts that are too complex as much as the expressions and wording that might make it hard to understand. Less complex sentences and common words is the general rule.

Yeah, big boy PS. Definitely, not too big for you though. I’ve played with a couple of server PS’s (all 12v) and they are very tame with even light loads. Just so smooth. That model does need 220v and is a bit over 22 inches long. Pretty sure I will be ordering one though. If I do, thinking I will mount it under my work bench with an outlet attached to the top of the bench.

27

Yep, server power supplies are a bargain for sure. The parts alone cost WAY more then that. Heck the scrap price I bet is close to that just for the raw materials.

I seriously considered getting one of those myself to power the various power modules I have laying around all from a single, clean source.

I ended up skipping it mostly because of the size, I am pressed for space as it is in my “work area” and could not justify the supersized power supply. Plus like you said they are generally 220v and that was a non-starter for me. No way am I running a 220v socket to my work area just for that lol. I hate running wire through walls.

28

^
You can convert a branch to 220v at the breaker box, but that would make all the other outlets on that branch 220. You would need a 220 breaker and then black and white would become hot and ground would become neutral. You would also need to change the outlets to 220 outlets (there are some in a 110ish format and you would need to check your local codes. Pretty sure you don’t want to go that route, but just throwing that out in case you were not aware (I bet you are).

You might want to consider the ProLiant DL380 (DPS-600PB). 12v (Think it can be modded into the 13’s) and 47amps. Supposed to be very reliable and run forever (exaggerating, of course). With a slight modification, the outputs can connected in series. Common for folks to run 2S, 3S, and 4S for 24v, 36v, and 48v, respectively. I saw one where the guy had 2S with jacks for 5, 12, 17, and 24v. I think 2 units would be the max you could run on a typical 110v, 15A home outlet.

29

Yeah, I knew it was possible to convert to 220v but with the old wiring in this house I would not trust it. Plus every dang circuit seems to be connected to half the dang house!

No joke, 1 circuit runs the microwave, all the kitchen outlets and lights, the hallway + outlets, the formal room lights + half the outlets (which also happen to power the main computer), plus a few other things I forgot.

Someone got super laze and just started daisy chaining things together in an endless loop! That stupid circuit will pop if you use anything high powered at all. Forget using the microwave and anything else at the same time.

The rest of the house is not that much better. Already had to add a few circuits to run the computers separately as they kept popping the breaker by themselves.

30

If I understand things correctly these units could be used for anodizing couldn’t they? I have heard of battery chargers being used but they are a switching power supply…? Anodizing requires constant current. Is this correct?

31

Yes, it could indeed be used for this quite easily.

32

Thank you for your suggestion. about this question, I can’t solve it . there is a way to let your output voltage higher to make up the voltage drop. or or you can let the wire more thick and shorter…
those are only ways
thank you

33

if you want to buy AC-DC power supply , I always use MW MeanWell power supply , you can search it on eaby or aliexpress
you can use it with my products DP or DP power supply . if you want to buy, you can go to my shop, you are from BLF, i will give you some discount about DPS5015 or others
thank you

34

—— if you use my DP or DPS power supply , you don’t need to care about whats’ the anodizing . because my product has contant current and constant voltage function . so don’t worry about this
http://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/group/DPS-Programmble-control-power-supply/923042_508466030.html?spm=2114.10010108.100008.8.UKWwhJ

35

Probably was, there aren’t any reviews out there for the 5015, and only a couple for the smaller units. Found a pretty good YouTube review for one of the smaller ones.

As far as the dual input V input you suggested, a different option, that might be easier to implement, would be to have a fine adjustment pot for the voltage output. That way you could wire up any type of leads you want, and adjust the voltage until it matched what you actually have at the cable ends. That would work for a lot of different wire sizes and leads, because everyone’s is going to be different in a project like this where you have to make your own. And for those that don’t want to, or aren’t comfortable with adjusting it, it could simply be set to read at the unit from the factory, that way it’s essentially be unchanged from how it works now. But it’d be a great benefit for those who are comfortable tweaking it a little.

Does that sound like something that would work or that could be implemented by the manufacturer?
about DPS5015, there is only some test video on youtube - YouTube . but there is video to make real power supply to use DPS3012 Самодельный лабораторный блок питания. - YouTube
you can see .
about your plane to use a meter and some DC-DC power module to make power supply . I cam say it is hard to make a better one . I know there are some video for this power supply on youtube ,. but some are too simple , some are less function…
our DPS power supply is very cheap to get those powerful function…
if you want to my DPS power supply , you can get the discount .

36

Hello All,

I’m wondering if I can use this unit (DPS3012) as a led driver for 4 XML leds in series (input will be a lipo pack 5s or 6s) ?

Thanks,

Richard.

37

Yes, you could do this easily, although I would get the 5015 version for the extra $3 (the designer is offering a discount for BLF members here: Budget friendly adjustable bench Power supplies perfect for testing LED's and other uses!). Gives you room to grow later plus 4x XM-L’s could easily take the full 15 amps it offers. Be sure to add a fan blowing over it if running it at high amps for extended periods.

If you will be setting of some kind of “permanent” LED lighting where you do not need easy adjustability then honestly you do not need something this fancy. I would get an analog power module like the one I posted in the OP. it works great if you take the time to set it up and then never touch it again. You will still need a fan to cool it though.

38

Hello,

thank you very much for the answer. I will buy the 5015 as you recommend.

My project is a DIY bike light based on 4 Cree XML2 wired in series, that I want to drive at 3 Amps.

At the beginning of my project, I was looking for a step-up (boost) converter, to use small batteries like 3 or 4 cells lipo pack.

But I really like the display for easy setup and monitor live the amps given to the LEDs, and also the Vin to alert me when my Lipo pack voltage will be too low.

Unfortunatelly, it is a buck converter, so Vin must be greater than sum of LED’s forward voltage (about 14 volts for 4 LEDs), so i need to use “big” battery 5 or 6 cells.

My initial idea was to have 6 Cree XML2 in series, so a total forward voltage of 21 V and so a power output of 63 Watts !

Unfortunatelly, I do not find any cool boost module (except hbflex from taskled) with good specifications and display (voltmeter, amp meter,…).

Perhaps the solution will be to connect in parallel 2 clusters of 3 XML2 in series to the 5015 ? In this case I will have to setup the 5015 to output 10.5 volts and 6 amps, should it work ?

Thanks again

39

I would not recommend this power module for a bike light simply because it is so large. It will work but there are much better options.

Honestly for a bike light you could very easily use a simple flashlight driver to do what you need at a fraction of the weight and size.

There are lots of drivers that will do what you want, just search around.

A driver such as my own Texas Avenger series (see my sig) would provide all the output you could want in a compact package. It includes low voltage protection as well.

If you want simple I would just use a few 18650 batteries in parallel for runtime.

The batteries will be the largest part except for the heat sink you will need for the LED’s. 4 XM-L2 driven well will overheat in a hurry, so you will need a good sized heat sink for sure. You can also add as many 18650’s as you want in order to get the runtime you want as well. I am pretty sure there are some nice bike light builds on here, I would read through those. It is not my thing personally so I don’t know what others are doing.

40

Hi Texas_Ace,

First of all, I do not have the skill and tools to build by myself a driver like the one you have designed.

About the size of the driver, it is not an issue, I already made some lights based on 4 Cree XML, and I use some metallic boxes (20 cm x 10 cm x 5 cm to give you an idea) to put heat sinks, fans, and have enough space to do nice wiring. It allows me also to use large carclo optics of 26.5 mm diameter.

About the batteries, I do not want to use 18650, I have already a ton of different Lipo batteries (from 3S to 6S, up to 8000 mAh) that I used to fly my RC helicopters and drones.

My previous lights work fine, no overheat issue, and I drive the LEDs at 3 Amps each time for several hours.

Why I am interested by this device, it is just the nice display to see live the parameters (current, voltage, power, Vin…), I like this. And because it is all integrated, no exta effort to do to connect by myself a voltage/current LCD display.

May be I can use the DPS5005 instead, it will take less space.

I do not want to ignore your advice, I’m here to exchange with skilled people, so I carrefully take in consideration your message, and now I don’t know what to do…

Many thanks to take time to read me and answer, I really appreciate.

I hope my English is not too bad…

Regards,

Richard.

41

I have to agree with TA. For a bike I would think you would want a $1 driver like this that will regulate your 3 amps and take up to 35 volts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596S-Buck-Converter-DC-Step-Down-Adjustable-Power-Supply-CC-CV-LED-Driver-UK-/291831584070?hash=item43f2849546:g:DFkAAOSw-YVXmu3F

Then for like $1, you can get a voltage display for the input voltage.

42

Yep, there are lots of options such as that, they would all be much smaller and simpler. For a voltage warning they sell lipo balance monitors on ebay for less then $2. You simply plug it into the balance port and it keeps track of all the cells voltage and sounds an alarm if they get too low.