Update – 02/27/2019
So it’s been about 2.5 years since I started this thread and I haven’t been very active around here for a while! Life has taken priority with buying a house, getting married and going on a long trip to the US for our honeymoon.
However, I decided to pull my finger out and get this build going again. The sad part is though, by today’s standards this light isn’t going to be overly impressive anymore! 
Anyway here is today’s update:
I modeled the heatsink/spacer in Rhino
I then took the CAD file and my chunk of aluminium to the machine shop and this is the result:
A few more things which have happened:
- I’ve decided to purchase two BLF GT 4S battery carriers from Neal rather than modifying the factory ones as I think I will end up with a better result this way, it will be cleaner and should carry more current.
- I have purchased some more 16AWG Teflon wire and think I will go with blue and transparent now
That’s it for now and hopefully the next post won’t take another 2.5 years!
Original Post – 30/08/2016
Well, I have been collecting a few parts recently and the last of them arrived today.
They say a picture says a thousand words so I will just leave these here for now…
Reserved
Reserved
Xpl hi ??
Yeah, 24x XP-L HI V2 3A
Definitely a monster. Looking forward to it
WOW
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So are you gonna have to register that thing with the CASA? That’s gotta be like 20k+ lumens! Amazing and I’m excited to see how it all turns out.
Aspiring Fhashlightaholic!
Where will this insanity end?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
I’m actually a little nervous myself!! haha
I have bought some 16awg silver plated teflon wire from the US which I’m hoping will carry the current ok.
Twin FET set up so the firmware controls both FETs and they run at predetermined %‘s and the second switch will control the third driver which is there only as a lockout.
damn
you can start a bushfire with that monster
Nico -.-
You’ll need a high speed camera for the beamshots …
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I’m just hoping the whole thing doesn’t melt down! Looking forward to getting in to the build, but don’t think I will have too much time coming up.
Holy crap, no that won’t do… HOLY CRAP!!!
Just the thought of it makes my eyes hurt. Pure awesomeness.
Are those Carclo optics? Dale recently found you get a lot more (apparent) light out of Khatod optics. Something to think about before you cut down your heatsink.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
They are Carclo, that’s interesting to hear. Where is the best place to get the Khatod optics? Are they still 24mm dia?
Haha thanks! I’ve got a bit of work ahead of me!
All I really know is what is in Dale’s OP here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46854
I think they are a little bigger than 24mm, so they might not fit? They fit the cutter Tpads though.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
The Khatod’s are available at Cutter and the Cutter quad mcpcb is designed to accept them, it’s the reason for the slot instead of a hole for the legs.
Tighter beam, more output. Taller optic as well so the heat sink will be shorter.
Edit: Might be worthy to note I had a bit of issue with the Khatod quad over XP-L HI emitters. I had the HI’s in my little DBC-04 Titanium light and one of them got the bond wire broken by the very small opening of the TIR on the Khatod. I now have 219C’s in it and they’re working fine. Also might make note that when I built a Quad X6 with XP-L HI’s I ended up with less lumens than a 219C variant due to the lower Vf of the 219C. Something to think about anyway.
Curious, you gonna leave the cells in 8.4V configuration and run Zener modified FET’s to the quad board with the LED’s in 2S2P configuration?
Edit: Are you aware that you can take the battery carrier’s apart and replace the narrow gauge brass rod that carries ground with an 18ga Turnigy wire for better current? Spring bypasses are a must.
@1theDeals
Already ahead of you on that one Dale. I actually have a third carrier I have already started working on. I’m converting them both to 4S so will end up with 4S2P. All traces are being beefed up with 3mm braid with solder in it, springs have been bypassed and the little domes they use for the positive contact have been replaced with solid brass buttons. I’m also replacing the ground rods and hopefully will be able to use the 16AWG Teflon wire I got.
This guy must be crazy!
Can’t wait to see the monster alive!
Its the water out West that makes them different.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
No idea what you’re talking about ???
The openings on the khatod optic are indeed very small. I wonder if a lot more light is lost (not collected by the optic) when the larger XPL HI is used.
It sounds as though I might be safer just using the Carclo optics. I don’t want to have problems with the emitters in this light. They cost a small fortune!
Can’t wait to see how this monster comes to life, please hurry with the build
.
Courui D01 -Mod ZY-T08 Small Sun -Mod Shadow JM30 Mod - copper edition Brinyte 158B mod - copper brass hybrid
Small sun ZY-T08 Mod II - The Next Generation Small Sun ZY-T08 Best Of Both Worlds Warsun X50 mod - a complete makeover
Maglite 3C Mod - old school style
So it’s been about 2.5 years since I started this thread and I haven’t been very active around here for a while! Life has taken priority with buying a house, getting married and going on a long trip to the US for our honeymoon.
However, I decided to pull my finger out and get this build going again. The sad part is though, by today’s standards this light isn’t going to be overly impressive anymore!
Anyway here is today’s update:
I modeled the heatsink/spacer in Rhino
I then took the CAD file and my chunk of aluminium to the machine shop and this is the result:
A few more things which have happened:
- I’ve decided to purchase two BLF GT 4S battery carriers from Neal rather than modifying the factory ones as I think I will end up with a better result this way, it will be cleaner and should carry more current.
- I have purchased some more 16AWG Teflon wire and think I will go with blue and transparent now
That’s it for now and hopefully the next post won’t take another 2.5 years!
Nice job!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
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