Modding the CQG 3x18650 single XM-L T6 torch to TRIPLE XM-L U2 bin. (Build log) - IT'S ALIVE !!!

@charlestt: The driver is for sale to DRY owners as a replacement or upgrade. Send Ric an email request. Links are in first post.

@yavi: thanks for the kind words. I will post beamshots when finished, but from past experience, I would be surprised to see anything but a nice smooth single beam.

@Hal: I believe the lenses to be made of polycarbonate, so they should be efficient AND heat-resistant.

Holy moly do I want that! I love triples with optics. I've been trying to figure out a setup for a triple xml board, but hadn't even considered this light. I think I'd still like a single 26650 light (so a little smaller but a bit of a problem with the triple board wired in series) with a head to fit those optics.

Great work!

Great work, bud! Oh, how I find myself aching for a lathe to play with! Can't wait to see the end result and everything in between. What made you choose diffused optics over clear?

Availablilty. Nothing more.

I have an extra optic that I'll play around with polishing the face, as the 'facets' are there.

Gotcha I had a feeling that was the case but it never hurts to ask. Have I mentioned how much I envy you for having that lathe?

I'll sell it to you for one torch. Of course, the torch is a $15k HID battlefield illuminator, but it's still one light. ;)

EDIT: feel free to stop by and "play" on the lathe. I'll set up the guest bed.

I just checked the invoice. The lens is a 35mm diameter +/-9.5 degree optic. Sorry for the misinformation.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your input ! The little bit I've played with was not as fun to cut as the Al...

I have some 7/8" round rod that was purchased to make some P60 triples, and I'll likely just press-fit some of that into the center of the Al heatsink before drilling for wiring.

I still need to learn how to cut threads, that's next on the list. :)

Fantastic : You make me want to go out and spend a grand on a lathe ... [ Maybe next year ]

I am soo happy to see you are putting the lathe to good use.

And I love your idea with this light. I'll stay tuned :)

this is AWESOME!

Thanks for confirming this!

Can't wait to see the beamshots!

GREAT!!! Beamshots

Hehheh… I might take you up on that if I’m ever out that way.

VERY nice job.

do you suppose you could measure the OD of the threads on the body, head side, and the tpi? I have a head I'm hoping will screw right onto this body.

edit: i'm assuming you have a thread gauge, since you've got a lathe! if not, somehow I've ended up w/ 3 and I'll send you one just for doing me the favor. I know it is a slim chance, but I'm REALLY hoping I get lucky w/ this lol

20 TPI, the measurement is below:

fiddlesticks - ~4mm too small

thanks

No problem, glad to help.

I planned on putting up pics of the battery holder tonight, but there was a short and some springs melted.

Seriously. I probably should use protected cells instead of IMRs next time for testing.....

I'll try again tomorrow with some Old-Lumens styled homemade copper springs.

Here are the details of the battery holder mods.

Overview: Converting a 3x18650 battery holder from parallel to series operation.

Here are a few pics of the stock battery holder:

As you can see, the holder needs to bring both + and - to the top end, as the body does not have a ground path...it's entirely anodized.

The first modification was to cut the trace on the PCB, linking two spots on each one. I failed to notice these initially, and this led to a short (and melted springs.)

Working from the switch to the top spring, linking + and -, requires a bit of wire:

The extra wires are used to make for a better negative pathway:

Here you can see the addition of 2 contact points to the negative (ground) ends:

Here's a look at the modded holder, reading 12.61 volts:

Next round will be the assembly/wiring of the Light Engine.

I mean, since the plastic legs are stuck right on the heatsink, that they could get warped from the heatsink temps. Obviously they don’t since so many use them. I was just asking, since the stock puropse is for indoor/outdoor lighting where the heatsinks are usually finned for cooling.