@charlestt: The driver is for sale to DRY owners as a replacement or upgrade. Send Ric an email request. Links are in first post.
@yavi: thanks for the kind words. I will post beamshots when finished, but from past experience, I would be surprised to see anything but a nice smooth single beam.
@Hal: I believe the lenses to be made of polycarbonate, so they should be efficient AND heat-resistant.
Holy moly do I want that! I love triples with optics. I've been trying to figure out a setup for a triple xml board, but hadn't even considered this light. I think I'd still like a single 26650 light (so a little smaller but a bit of a problem with the triple board wired in series) with a head to fit those optics.
Great work, bud! Oh, how I find myself aching for a lathe to play with! Can't wait to see the end result and everything in between. What made you choose diffused optics over clear?
Thanks for your input ! The little bit I've played with was not as fun to cut as the Al...
I have some 7/8" round rod that was purchased to make some P60 triples, and I'll likely just press-fit some of that into the center of the Al heatsink before drilling for wiring.
I still need to learn how to cut threads, that's next on the list. :)
do you suppose you could measure the OD of the threads on the body, head side, and the tpi? I have a head I'm hoping will screw right onto this body.
edit: i'm assuming you have a thread gauge, since you've got a lathe! if not, somehow I've ended up w/ 3 and I'll send you one just for doing me the favor. I know it is a slim chance, but I'm REALLY hoping I get lucky w/ this lol
Overview: Converting a 3x18650 battery holder from parallel to series operation.
Here are a few pics of the stock battery holder:
As you can see, the holder needs to bring both + and - to the top end, as the body does not have a ground path...it's entirely anodized.
The first modification was to cut the trace on the PCB, linking two spots on each one. I failed to notice these initially, and this led to a short (and melted springs.)
Working from the switch to the top spring, linking + and -, requires a bit of wire:
The extra wires are used to make for a better negative pathway:
Here you can see the addition of 2 contact points to the negative (ground) ends:
Here's a look at the modded holder, reading 12.61 volts:
Next round will be the assembly/wiring of the Light Engine.
I mean, since the plastic legs are stuck right on the heatsink, that they could get warped from the heatsink temps. Obviously they don’t since so many use them. I was just asking, since the stock puropse is for indoor/outdoor lighting where the heatsinks are usually finned for cooling.