Home Depot Deal Alerts & Discussion Thread

I think I just learned something; if you see a lot of items one time and the next time they are all gone, then that means they have probably gone to a penny and you can look for leftovers.

in pseudocode

:smiley:

Heads up guys, a little birdie told me that many HD locations are eliminating 3rd shift (overnight) employees…this includes overnight MET. The regular MET duties will be done by the regular store hour employees. This might give us deal hunters a better chance to snag deals during store hours without interference from overnight MET.

I was in my work HD yesterday and the whole place was swarming with RGIS (I think that was it) uniformed subcontractors. Scanning and keying and putting up inventory sheets on all the racks and shelves. I scowled at every one of them, it felt like they were following me around the store stealing all the deals!

I did see a stack of Kohler faucets that are marked down to 35.03 from 139 with a date of 5/19/16. I gotta check those regularly for the next little bit. It would be sweet to score 3 of them at a penny and have penny faucets throughout the house.

I have seen faucets locally with dates as old as last year, they still ring up for the sticker price though. I keep hoping but it honestly gets tiring to drag it to the front only to drag it back lol.

The HD’s around here have a lot of faucets at an “07” price with the date of 05/19/16. Same date mentioned above. That “07” price is roughly 50% off and is the same 07 price my friend scored on for a penny last month. Dates on his scores were 2 months older, 03/17/16.

More FYI:
Kohler makes great fixtures but their faucets fall way below those standards. Good at half price or less, but you’ll get what you pay for. Kohler also ‘cheapens’ some of the ones it sends to the ‘big-box’ stores, they look the same on the outside but the insides are not the same as Kohler bought from a plumbing supply. Not sure if all their models do this but many do. Moen and American Standard are doing the same now. If they made lights to sell there. they’d have LB emitters for sure :rage:

Phil

Hey dchomak, do you use the “over/under” method? I learned it years ago and now I cringe when I see someone gather a cable any other way.

To those unfamiliar with this method, there are many ways to achieve the “over/under” wrap, but this video is quick and simple:

Search YouTube for “over under cable” for alternative explanations.

It’s so satisfying to hold one end of a 50-foot cable and toss the rest across the shop/driveway/yard and have it unroll without a single knot. :smiley:

Yes, that’s what I am talking about. That method has lots of names, like the “roadie wrap” etc. depending on the trade.
I used to tell the guys, while wrapping the cord, just keep repeating “over worked, under paid” :wink:

How right you are. Home Depot and places like WalMart are so huge and have such buying power that they can dictate the prices they want to pay. OEM’s then have to figure out if they are willing to cut quality to get the sales.

The thing is these days, to get the kind of quality in faucets of yesteryear, one would have to pay $600 and up for a faucet. Not many of us are willing to do that.

WARNING: Graphic content to follow!

A couple of years ago my wife came home with a “new pull” from a newly constructed home. She found it at a Habitat for Humanity ReStore. It was a brand new Kohler Pedestal sink and toilet. Complete with brass faucets and all bathroom hardware. Towel bars etc.
It must have come from a house just built and the owners ripped it out and replaced them with something else that suited them. The color was “Wild Rose”
She asked me to install them in the half bath off the kitchen, which I did. The problem is that the wooden toilet seat was an exact match color wise with the sink and toilet, and after a few years it needed to be replaced. I knew going in that this day was coming. I went online and found the seat on Amazon.

How do you like that, $144.00 for a freaking toilet seat! I don’t think the U.S. Government pays that much for toilet seats :smiley:
Anybody that thinks I’m paying $144 for a toilet seat has an other thing coming.
So because I am so cheap value conscience, and a modder at heart, I found a close match color wise at Lowes. Trouble is, the hinges for the Kohler are sort of proprietary AND the hinges on the one from Lowes were damaged. That’s why I was able to buy the toilet seat on clearance for only $5 :slight_smile:
So I drilled new holes and mounted the Lowes seat, CHURCH brand, to the original Kohler seat hinges.
The wife is OK with that, so for the time being I dodged a bullet. I’m supposed to be looking for a closer match. :innocent:

Beware, a new low for BLF. What follows is a picture of a toilet!
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That’s what I always say. ReStore is great. If you need a toilet, instead of getting a cheap toilet for ~$80, go to the restore and you are likely to find one or more nice toilets for much lower prices. We got a Kohler Rialto, in good condition, for $20 there; original price is like $500.

radioshaq,
Today I got a chance to scan for price one of the ordinary TCP Connected 60W equiv bulbs. I took a copy of the UPC code I posted and got this.

I was also able to find one of the 90W equiv down lights, not the 65W equiv that you scanned. It came up at $39.97. As far as I know, this is the only TCP Connected product left in HD. There are other TCP bulbs, just not the Connected ones.

Maybe your “recall” message is equivalent to my “item not found”
Maybe not. something funny has happened with the TCP connected stuff. The “Connected” system is supposed to be Wink app compatible, it says so right on the box.
Notice the Blue dot.

But when I go into my Wink app, I see this when I try to connect a TCP bulb.

Right on, my wife paid $75 for the pedastal sink, faucet, toilet and matching bath towel bars etc.
And it was a pull from a newly constructed house.

I got my hobby workbench there also. I only paid $5 for it! This is the Man Cave, most important room in the house.

Notice the ceramic bird bath to the left of it. I use it as a candy dish.
I’m pretty proud of that idea :slight_smile:

I see you have the B&D car battery charger in the middle of the table, it was on clearance here for $20 so i got one, how much was yours?

If you have BLF set to it’s default setting of 30 posts to the page this link should bring you to my teardown in this very same thread.

it’s post 1165 if that doesn’t work for you

Considering i posted just before that post i must have read it, but i didn’t remember it (probably because i didn’t buy it till months later). Odd that we paid the same price!
It will only charge a nexus 4 once then be down to under 40%, so i suspect a linear driver, and if the same for 12V i don’t see how it could boost a car (but i hope it does), plus it would be burning 6V doing so, so a very strange setup.

That pack contains 6S1P Samsung 20Q’s. A 20Q is 2000mAh, or 2Ah.
When this pack is not used to actually jump start a car but rather as a portable battery charger. The directions tell us to connect it to the battery either with the jumpers or thru the cigarette lighter. Most cigarette lighters are fused for 10A, so we know this pack outputs less than that. Say 6A and if that is the case, then connecting it for 10 minutes it will have put back 6A x 10/60 hours or 1Ah which is about half the capacity of the pack. That would give you about 10 seconds of cranking power. (my estimate)

Say it takes 400A to crank start a car. We just put in 1Ah of energy into the car battery with this pack, so

(400A) x (10 sec) x (1 min/60 sec) x (1 Hr/60 min) = 1.111Ah, (1111mAh)
That is about equal to what this pack will put into a car battery when connected for 10 minutes.

BTW, If you can’t start your car within 10 seconds of cranking, you’re out of luck. So if you have a weak battery AND an engine that needs a tuneup, you’re screwed :stuck_out_tongue:

I and others have already used this for that purpose, and it works. But only if you follow the instructions.

Also I might add, I have gotten cars started over the years with ordinary extension cords. In a pinch, cut the plugs and use the wires to connect the batteries of both vehicles. And yes, 16ga wire will work for this :slight_smile:
Once again, wait about 10 minutes, because in this case also, you are not jump starting the car but rather charging the battery.

I don’t disagree that the energy needed to start a car is low, you can get capacitor packs (home made) that hold as much cumulative energy as 1 x 18650 and it will start a car, because the 6 eneloops worth of energy is delivered in 1-2 amazingly high discharge power seconds, but can a battery brought from 0% charge to under 5% start a car?
Apparently the answer is yes.

I know that it charges the battery instead of starting off the li ion battery because of the time stated in the instructions and the Samsungs can’t output 250C! I am still skeptical but i assume it must work if its on the market without nonstop bad reviews, i guess its one of those has to be seen to be believed things.

We are talking here about “topping” off a Lead Acid battery that is just under being capable of turning over the engine.
A Lead Acid battery at 0% is ruined.

That is why it is a mistake to let the starter go into full stall when trying to start a car. All that does is drain the battery even more.
As soon as that happens, use this. It is your last chance. Drain the battery too low before using this and you’re not going to be successful.

I’ll keep that in mind