Again have some xp-g3s. 3C tint now.
Can be shipped together with 3xp/xp32/tpad quad boards, but bare only for this moment.
$2/pc.
Combine shipping with any other parts from this thread.
I have made them for myself in triple configuration and even build one light. It is little useless because triple conv. requires host cutting and there were no o-ring grooves so light becomes non-waterproof.
I have sent lots of them to one blf member, unfortunately havent seen if he had build them. Right now have 5 such pills (for triple, that needs host cutting). They are not pretty look and seems that I had done some expiriments with them. So they are free.
Do you mean a triple in a SK68?
I find that idea scary (grin) and don’t think I’d attempt that.
They’re not waterproof anyhow because of the slider.
I was curious about single-emitter SK68 pills
(recently I can find SK68s and “#3 zoomie” flashlights for $2 apiece if I am patient and look on eBay and AliExpress.
But those pills are some soft gray metal, uneven, so an emitter won’t even sit flat in contact around the edges,
and of course 10mm square Luxeon Rebel boards touch only at the four corners, on hollow pills.)
I don’t want to push you into doing this if nobody else is interested in them!
I’d buy a dozen, couldn’t use more soon. See if anyone else is interested to make it worth doing?
I’d wish for pills with solid back planes to mount the LED on so I could use the square 10mm Luxeon Rebels.
But if they have ledges I can stuff in a copper or aluminum disk with some thermal epoxy, I’ve done that with ok success before (and just drilled my own holes for wires)
But before you spend any time and effort on this — I’m just some guy, I would not be making these up to resell, but to give as gifts
I’d be putting in BLF 15mm SK68 drivers if I didn’t keep the originals, and “anything has to be better” LEDs.
One annoyance with improving SK68s is that it’s hard to solder drivers to pills — I just dropped one and had the driver edge solder crack off the aluminum pill.
No problem for me, but a fairly common failure when they’ve been given as gifts so I end up redoing that solder bridge.
I don’t know a simple good way around that problem of grounding the driver to the pill that’s idiot proof against dropping them.
Fewer sharp corners, more pocket-friendly. Also takes the 15mm SK68 driver and same emitter
And when a millimeter is filed off the slider, bringing the lens right down to the LED, they give a generous flood, while the narrow beam isn’t affected.
It’s almost impossible to solder to Al. The metals are too dissimilar, and won’t “stick”. Plus, the briefest exposure to oxygen would lightly passivate it.
What I’ve done is to solder-fill the vias/passthroughs on the edges of the driver (those “ridges” where the boards snap apart, usually), and then press-fit the drivers into the pills so that it’s literally a friction-fit. Not perfect, but seems to work for me. Too much solder, though, and it won’t fit at all.
Yep. Solder blobs weren’t the right approach.
Lately, I’ve also soldered a tiny copper wire to both sides of the driver, flattened it with a tap (it’s soft already from heating) then squeezed that into place.
Same idea as filling the vias — make the ground ring around the driver electrically contact the pill ….
No problem. You is not first who is asking about them, and 10pcs is enough quantity to make small batch.
I understand that everyone wants solid plane.
SK98 is much less popular than SK68. Also they are not so cheap and closer to better 18650 zoomies in price
I enjoy them myself. Once they almost burned my jeans pockets internal (with trustfire 14500 cells). But they are not as good in heat spreading as sipik with solid pill.
Also I think that we can move pcb shelf a little to have such zoom out and zoom in beams as you want to.
I think there is no need on driver soldering in such projects. You can solder driver to copper pill using torch but it is not safety.
To other ways:
Press fit. Driver place is 0.2mm smaller than driver OD, you need to file driver until it enters in its place by half around and then press it inside
Pill rim press. In fact with 15-16mm driver place rim is thin and you can simply bend it inside to hold driver.
SK68 $2 chinise clone single led solid shelf copper pill interesting list:
hm, I’ll go with “whatever” in the end, but curious.
On all the ones I have the side groove on the large diameter is used to hold either a rubber ring or a metal spring — that’s what gives enough friction to keep the sliding part from slipping back and forth, just enough contact (with a little lubrication) to make the focus change smoothly and stay where it’s set.
With that setup there’s probably some slop in the inner diameter of the focusing sliding part, filled by the ring/spring.
How would you focus the light if it’s just two cylinders one inside the other — thick grease? But that would goop out onto your hand, when the slider was full forward (narrow), I’d think?
If you mean the side groove just above the threads, I don’t see any use for that one.
Yes, my mistake, I used drawing of triple with fixed position and forgot about head fixing.
I will check how does it works with 1 o-ring exept of two in stock.
I can’t speak for the ’68 as I don’t have one, but at least for the ’98, the piece with the front lens slides around the pill from the back end, and has an inner “ledge” to keep the pill from pushing through the other end. The pill then screws into the battery-tube.
This inner ledge keeps the slider+lens from being pulled off the tube completely. I think you’d need to keep the outer threads on the pill.