ITS HERE! SIPIK SK98 - A 18650 based Sipik SK68 with an XML!

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Ubehebe
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The Sipik also has the same semi-defect with the clip arm as the Ultrafire, so it’s probably best not to put too much pressure on it. There is a big honking hole in the clip up near where it attaches to the light. That should be the clip’s strongest point, but it appears to be the weakest. I read somewhere else that the clip has a tendency to snap off at that weak point, exacerbated by the fact that the clip steel may not be spring steel. Mine hasn’t broken yet, but I see how that could be an issue. I have a broken light with a similar clip (without the hole), so I may switch at least one clip.

Ledsmoke
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FYI: The clip on my sipiks have only broken when being “mangled” with tools like a adjustable wrench. YMMV.

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

Ubehebe
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Ye olde hole in the SK98 clip is proportionately LARGER than the hole in the SK68 clip. The Ultrafire SK98 clone also has the bothersome too-large hole. I’ve never had a prob with SK68 clips (or clips on the myriad sk68 clones), BUT the SK98 clip, she is a different animal.

Maybe it’ll be fine. We shall see. Just repeating a complaint/concern that I saw in a now-forgotten thread from somewhere.

JaffoAZ
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On my SK98, I actually use the hole in the clip. I slide in a laynard and tie a knot to retain it, and then attach my keys and my pill container and my grocery store club card. Then, when I go to raves, I turn the torch on and tap to strobe mode, and then gripping my keys nice and tight, I swing the SK98 around above my head like a crazed meth head. Interestingly, at that point, the party comes to me.

So far, I have not experienced any breakage or failure of the belt clip on the SK98 when used properly as I have described. I cannot attest to having used any pliers or tools on it, however.

Oh, and I’m totally kidding. About all of it. I suggest we simply use that clip on a belt or to secure it in an inside pocket of a bug-out bag or whatever. Smile If the Sipik SK98 is comfortable in YOUR pocket, you are indeed a bigger man than I.

Peace out.

JAFFO

kitelight
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& I definitely did not use it on high for a long time: less than 10 mins.
I was really looking forward to this light which has been a real disappointment.
I am keen to get it working again but I really dread the fact that I might go through the hassle of sourcing copper rod as suggested earlier, just to have it melt the plastic disc sitting over the star.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

kitelight

Milan
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garrybunk wrote:

I really like my Poppas W-878!  Very versatile battery configuration (26650, 18650, 3AAA) and very large flood.  $16.33 at Manafont

-Garry

DD has them for US$ 15.69 now with wrong Q5 description

http://www.dinodirect.com/flashlight-poppas-wq5-3mode-5w-led.html?DDID=3...

pics are right though

RETAILMENOT10OFF doesnt work with these discounted torches

gloomywarfreak
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Manafont seems to have heard how disappointed people are with this and posted a warning not to run on high for prolonged periods.

kitelight
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but I guess having the problem rectified & sending out “flawless” SK98s to the unlucky buyers would prevent sales from plummeting fast!!

I guess their stock WILL LAST…….FOREVER! Smile

kitelight

Ubehebe
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Not to beat a dead horse, but it would be a great light for midnight Alaskan winter walks. Wink

How hot can this thing get? I asked myself last night when I let it run for a while. I found out: It can get very ++HOT++! Too hot to hold. Hot enough to fry mini eggs.

Didn’t let it go long enough to melt solder or the plastic piece, but it got MIGHTY hot. Would definitely keep your hands warm during those 18-hour Alaskan winter nights! Or tailstand a couple and heat your klondike cabin. Wink

I also noticed that it doesn’t like some batteries. Some Trustfire flamers work in every light I have …. But not in this one for some reason. If it works at all with those batts, it goes to strobe immediately. No other modes are available, and then it shuts off. But other batts work just fine. Batts that didn’t work in the sipik ++might++ have been a tad overcharged (?) at 4.15 or 4.16 volts, read with the cheapest Chinese multimeter on the planet. Only difference I could see. Could — of course — be different protection circuits in the flamer batts? Or an unusual alignment of planets?

The ebay Ultrafire SK98 clones also get warmish hot, but take MUCH longer to reach that point and can be easily controlled by a switch to lower power for a minute. I really like the Ultrafire take on the Sipik design …. Seems to be the exact same host, but I haven’t gone over it with a fine-toothed dog brush. Slightly less bright as noted before.

So the consensus is: There is no way to cool down the Sipik? I saw someone’s copper heat sink. Did that work? Is there any simple mod that will quell the heat? Carry a sandwich bag filled with ice?

JaffoAZ
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Only one of my three UF red 18650s works with the SK98, because on two of them, the protection circuits cut out do to being set too low. They won’t run my MF UF XML T6 3-mode on high either.

Apparently this SK98 is maybe over driven a bit, considering the amount of heat they put out. The heat sinking maybe be an option, or a better driver. I haven’t measured amps or anything, but why would these things need to be driven so hard? That big wide flood is impressive. But the low mode is a little too low for my taste.

I have another 1× 18650 zoomy on order that isn’t a sipik clone, but fairly similar, and I’m looking forward to seeing what it’s capable, and seeing if another manufacturer has figured something out with this generally good design that Sipik hasn’t yet. Would like to see the design work with better innards and better batteries, and come in a torch that won’t require modding to get it to work like we want it too. The SK68s and the clones are so cool (albeit I agree my Ultrafire clone is a bit dimmer on high – but it makes up for it by having 3 modes), I think it was a naturally cool idea to make a bigger version. That XML LED is just so big and hot.

JAFFO

Ubehebe
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This is def off topic, so hopefully the thread police won’t lop my fingers off …. Mister Jaffo, kind sir, zoomies are my one weakness (well next to cookies-and-cream frozen yogurt with crushed peanut butter cups), can you share which zoomie you are waiting for? If not, I understand completely.

I am always looking for bright or small zoomers (got one of those little stainless-steel 14500 T6s). I know they’re inefficient, especially with the T6, but I just love walking along spotlighting a joshua tree here, an interesting rock there, and a big piece of moving rope ….Moving rope? That’s no rope. that’s a buzz worm! ….. Yikes! That’s one reason a zoomie is valuable in the desert night!

>>>>>>>Ultrafire clone is a bit dimmer on high – but it

My Ultrafire sk98 clone (which has no such picky tastes for different 18650 batts; they all work so far) has 3 modes but starts up in the mode AFTER the one you shut it off in. I wish it always started up in high like the sipik sk98.

Ecig
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Firelight2 wrote:

fishinfool wrote:

Ok here’s the deal…….I know this Sipik style torch is very, very popular here at BLF but am I the only one who thinks it’s fugly?  It’s design probably doesn’t work too well as a pocket edc because it looks like it gets stuck A LOT.  This is just my opinion folks so don’t have a cow. 

 

 

I own a few Sipik 68s and clones myself and I agree.  The design IS ugly.  Personally, I don’t like it for pocket carry because:

1. The crenelations on the bezel are sharp.  They feel uncomfortable in the pocket and feel like they might wear through my pants.

2. The bezel and body near the bezel seems to be wider than it needs to be on a Sipik SK68.  If I’m going to have a light with a wide body I want the light to take full advantage of it… this means that the lens should be as big as possible so it can use the extra width.  In the stock Sipik SK68 it’s not.  However, my 3-mode SK68 clone does actually use a bigger lens in the same sized body.

3. The decorative ring that serves as the clip mount sticks out.  Definitely something you’ll feel in your pocket.  It also makes it difficult to unscrew the tailcap.

4. The clip tension is far to strong to make it easy to get onto a belt or pants, and the clip itself is very short.  The clip doesn’t feel usable as a clip to me.  Instead it seems to serve as an anti-roll device.  Can’t be easily removed either since the screws holding it on tap right through the body of the light.  If you remove the clip you’ll have open holes leading to the body compartment unless you put the screws back in without the clip or fill the holes with a filler such as epoxy.

Personally, in a pocket EDC light I prefer an efficient shape that isn’t bigger than it needs to be.  I also want something smooth that won’t tear up my pockets.  A clean cylinder with full knurling works well.  This is why I much prefer the shape of the Sipik 58 over the Sipik 68.  The SK58 is much cleaner and smaller.  A much better shape for EDC.  The stock SK58 is inferior though due to worse emitter, but this can be fixed with a driver and emitter upgrade.  The SK58 is easy to mod.

I dont mind the design odf Sipik, but today I reveived this little thingy – http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/dongrui-dr114-q5-260lumen-mode-...

and thought came to my mind – this is really pocket friendly – in comparison with sipiK, Its really thin and its smooth.
Its not so sturdy as Sipik though.
It seems that it has same drriver, and also + for Sipik is that Sipik has wider beam. This one unfortunately has somewhat narrower beam.
This would be perfetc to be modded as bike tailight…, because it shines to the sides too (through that holes – light through the holes is partly red partly white). But 14500 dont have that much capacity. Maybe with AA 14500, different driver (slow blinking), and red lens….
That would be gret, its very light, and to put two of these on bike’s tail Big Smile Awesome Smile

I just hope it woldnt be too bright for the drivers taking me over Sad

Maybe Ill even put some red LED in it. to make it simpler

JaffoAZ
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Ubehebe wrote:
This is def off topic, so hopefully the thread police won’t lop my fingers off …. Mister Jaffo, kind sir, zoomies are my one weakness (well next to cookies-and-cream frozen yogurt with crushed peanut butter cups), can you share which zoomie you are waiting for? If not, I understand completely.

I am always looking for bright or small zoomers (got one of those little stainless-steel 14500 T6s). I know they’re inefficient, especially with the T6, but I just love walking along spotlighting a joshua tree here, an interesting rock there, and a big piece of moving rope ….Moving rope? That’s no rope. that’s a buzz worm! ….. Yikes! That’s one reason a zoomie is valuable in the desert night!

>>>>>>>Ultrafire clone is a bit dimmer on high – but it

My Ultrafire sk98 clone (which has no such picky tastes for different 18650 batts; they all work so far) has 3 modes but starts up in the mode AFTER the one you shut it off in. I wish it always started up in high like the sipik sk98.

I actually have buzzworm hunting in mind when I purchase torches. It is a hobby of mine – finding rattlesnakes of different species and taking photos of them. Smile The zoomies are great for the non-hotspot flood they put out. But I haven’t wanted to try one for an entire hike because I don’t expect the run-time to last long enough on high mode, and my P60 host setup is much brighter and lasts forever on “low”.

The light I am waiting on is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140732749694?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3...

Should arrive any day now. Like I said, not a close Sipik clone, which for these 18650 zoomies, may be a good thing, since the SK98s aren’t as great as we wanted them to be. Maybe this one will have improvements we need. No idea who makes it. Anxious to look at the innards and examine any heat-sinking efforts they might have made.

JAFFO

JaffoAZ
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Oh, and Ubehebe, I don’t see how your post was off-topic considering we were both still referring to the SK98 and its possible short-comings. Smile I really like mine, but I’m not sure how much I will use it yet. Gotta go out on a hike with the SK98 on low and see how it does.

JAFFO

ledoman
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Just got an Ultrafire clone of SK98 from ebay seller micro.digital. Fortunately it doesn’t have hollow pill but there is no heatsink paste under the star. Of course I’ve added some. Three modes as advertized. At high mode it pulls 2A at most and low mode pulls 0.78A measured at tail from fully charged XTAR 18700. Lenght of this battery isn’t problem.
Can’t tell a lot about brigtness yet as there is full sun outside, but it looks decent. What I don’t like is bulkiness compared to some other single 18650 zoomies I’ve got. It just doesn’t fit in my hand well. Maybe I have to get used on it. Could be good on bicycle….

JaffoAZ
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I kinda want to disassemble my SK98 pill to apply some thermal paste where its needed until I can properl mod some better heat sinking option… how did you guys get the pill apart? I don’t have a solder gun right now, so if I have to solder anything to reassemble, I guess I’d be screwed. LOL.

JAFFO

warmurf
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Got mine last night from MF. Stuck a AW18650 in and took it outside and lit up- was pretty happy with the output. Doesn’t throw as well because the XML will only reduce so far but a good amount of light coming out. But then the light dimmed a little. I cycled through the modes thinking maybe it kicked back to low but it hadn’t. So I looked down at the light. A mist of smoke was coming off the head. This all within 2 minutes. This light on high couldn’t survive 120 seconds before burning it’self up. I can’t believe it, what a piece of crap. I’m not a modder so no easy fix for me, and besides, based on that performance I don’t know whether it would be worth it.

JaffoAZ
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Wow, that sucks.

I wonder what the percentage of SK98s out there do this? My crappy 18650s cut out before my torch does, so I have a couple better-quality 18650s on the way. Until then, I won’t even be able to burn my SK98 up. LOL.

This was definitely a curiosity buy for me, even after I’d read negative reviews. Worst case: every single one of these torches suck and burn up and have shiddy zoom/throw performance are basically disposable unless you mod— and we still only spent what, $14 USD? If we would have just waited and let a bunch more guys out there buy before we did and wait for a larger consensus, then maybe we would have more confidently opted out on this light. But as it is, we are part of the first wave. Smile Maybe the next nifty new $14 light will be a winner…

JAFFO

JaffoAZ
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That reminds me – Does anyone else wonder if Manafont censors or deletes negative reviews on some products? I find it odd that the SK98 has been out for a little while now and there’s no reviews on the MF site yet…

JAFFO

sixfink
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JaffoAZ wrote:
I don’t have a solder gun right now

Soldering irons should be cheap in the U.S.

At least they are in the UK and in Germany, where I have lived now for 14 years.

Ohh, by the way, you wouldn’t just need thermal paste – you’d need a whole different attempt at heatsinking. Like, some serious mass of brass or copper (or aluminium, even). A plug or slug, as I’d like to call it (he, .12 gauge hunting sure has had its effect on me) press-fitted would sort 90% of your worries.

Reminder to all: The first run of Sipik SK98 is NOT properly heat-sinked by the factory, and not capable of withstanding 900-1.200 mA for long (i.e. more than 60 seconds – and frankly, I would not keep an unmodified torch on that long)!

p.s.: I don’t know about recent series’ right now. Better check the pill yourself before loading up a cell and turning it on.

JaffoAZ
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Just to bump a bit, I’ve seen some sign that a few out there are successfully modding and heat sinking the SK98 by now. Mine is still sitting here in my drawer, wrapped up, waiting to be conditioned for some good use. Anyone who’s properly heat sinked the thing feel willing to post a tutorial?

Thanks! (Not ready to consider this a garbage light yet.)

JAFFO

stevetexas
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SK68 was wildly successfull….

and now sipik has flushed all good name down the Shit Hole with this piece of garbage.

JaffoAZ
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But, if we can salvage the great design of the rest of this light by making some mods to better heat sink, we’ve got another winner. Sucks it wasn’t better designed in the first place though.

JAFFO

JaffoAZ
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
JaffoAZ wrote:
Anyone who’s properly heat sinked the thing feel willing to post a tutorial?

There are two quite cheap ways to improve the heatsinking of hollow pills.

Guerilla mod A:

Take a coin (or any other round piece of metal, preferably aluminium or copper) that almost fits the hole, drill two holes into it, sand one side down till it’s flat, then heat the pill to make it expand and put the coin in.
After letting it cool down, you can still adjust the position of the coin, if you use enough force.
(Pics are showing the pill of a SK68 clone.)

Guerilla mod B:

Put the pill front side down onto a cylindric object that has app. the size of the star.
(I used some coins and on top a button cell with the + side up for a flat surface.)
Now take some aluminium foil and press it into the pill, take the compressed foil chip out and cut two notches into it for the wires.
Put it back into the pill and press it to fit again.
If you do this right, it will stay in place without any play.
Take care that there’re no loose foil parts that might short something on the driver!
Use some thermal compound under the star, as the surface won’t be perfectly even.
(Pics are showing the pill of a Saik SA-105.)

Thank you for this, horst! I am working on my first attempt. Here’s my coin – not quite as nice as yours, but I think it’ll work:

I pressed thermal paste between the driver and the smoothed side of the coin, and then some paste along the ridge inside the pill. The coin is not a tight fit inside the pill, but is retained by the ridge – just doesn’t press fit. I’m attempting to use the original plastic washer to pressure fit it all down like it originally fit, but the extra mm taken up by the coin prevents this. I sanded down the inner ridges of the plastic washer until everything sits almost flush again, but cannot get it to press and stay. I applied a small amount of Gorilla Glue to the edges of the plastic and held in place until it seemed to stick. I spread some thermal paste onto the thread of the pill and screwed it back into the body of the SK98. I have not yet inserted a 18650 and turned it on. Smile

I feel like it’s a bit of a hash job, so I have a couple of questions: Is the coin pressed against the bottom of the driver with thermal paste enough to whisk away a significant enough amount of heat? Or does the fit against the inside ridge of the pill have to be solid? I understand that it’s optimal to have everything solid within the pill to transfer heat into the pill, then into the body of the light… but if I have applied some thermal past and there’s at least some substantial contact within the pill, can I get away with it not being tight?

In other words, how will I know if I’ve heat sinked this thing adequately?

Thanks again!

JAFFO

JaffoAZ
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Ahhh, gotcha. That is awesome and makes much more sense. Yeah, my coin is just pressed up against the star (sorry, I said “driver” in my prior post), and both are resting on top of that ridge.

I did turn it on for a few and it seemed to be transferring heat into the body almost immediately. But I like your diagram and would feel better if mine were a bit more solid. I’ll disassemble and try again, if not with the coin then some foil. And replace that washer as well. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

JAFFO

JaffoAZ
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I love this stuff. Thanks for helping me out with my first ‘mod’. I’m actually without a working soldering iron at the moment, so I have to put this little job on hold for now. But I was thinking of just doing the foil trick instead anyway. Do you think the stock driver will hold hold up with good heat sinking? Also, do you put any layer of non-conductive material between the foil and driver in the pill to protect from any impact knocking it out of place and hitting the driver circuitry?

JAFFO

JaffoAZ
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Haha. Okay. I think I might have read Match’s thread once, but I need to again, it appears.

Damn… so maybe I’ll save this fix til I get a good replacement drive. I do like the rest of the Sipik design and do wanna salvage this light. Thanks again for the help. Smile

JAFFO

scheven_architect
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Does the 18650 version throws as far as the 14500?

 

 
scheven_architect
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
The SK98 is better in throw as well as in overall output, but it kept the weak points of the SK68, like bad heatsinking, plastic lens, berzerk bezel. And it doesn’t fit 17mm drivers.

You have a Sipik branded one?
Does the sliding mechanism feels solid?
It has the weak points, but some users here report the sk98 being fried by itself, i have a sk68 unbranded which becomes hot quite fast but it doesn’t selfdestruct, that’s worse than just a weak point :p.

Sorry for all my questions but i want an upgrade for my sk 68 and the trustfire z8 xm-l 14500 won’t do it so know i’m looking for an alternative for my sk68 which is the light i’m having the best time with.

 

 
scheven_architect
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Horst Horstmann wrote:
Heatsinking can be improved with quite simple methods, check posts #144-146. I’d also strongly recommend to swap the driver to a max 3A one, as the stock driver goes to direct drive in HI mode.

Where did you buy your driver?
How do i access the star and driver? I manage to remove the lens but then i can’t figure out how to losen the rest and i don’t want to break anything :).

appreciate your help!

 

 

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