ITS HERE! SIPIK SK98 - A 18650 based Sipik SK68 with an XML!

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scheven_architect
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Does this unscrewing works the same as the sk68, because I don’t manage to get to unscrew the pill of the sk68. Due to receiving an underperforming trustfire z8 I have received a coupon of 7$ from t-mart for a Sipik branded sk98. That would bring the price down to 6,5$.

If i would keep the direct mode driver and just fill the pill with aluminium foil would that be sufficient not to fry the light?

Tmart says they haven’t received customer complaints so far…

 

 
SaCRiiD
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I received my Ultrafire clone a few weeks ago, and this light was from a seller on Ebay called “Bobotoway”. The torch itself is great, although it arrived in a crumpled cardboard box, undoubtedly a cause of rough shipping.
The torch does not have the same overheating problem as the Sipik SK98, but still there is a hollow pill. I put some heat transfer compound around the base of the star, to improve heat transfer. I have been using this torch for 1-10 minutes on high every day for the last few weeks, and so far so good.

Of course the less heat produced, the less powerful the torch is, but still, this thing is bright!

============================================================================

- Ultrafire C8 XM-L U2

- Ultrafire Sipik SK98 XM-L T6

- Generic 200lm zoomie

- Small Sun zy-s13

- Police Force random model

============================================================================

JaffoAZ
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Likewise, I got my UltraFire SK98 clone this last week. Regardless of the brand of cell I put in, charged to 4.2v, i’m getting over 2.5A on high. I tried SolarForce V3s, TrustFire Flames, and my crap UltraFire red 3000mAh.

And it is bright as hell and the head and body heat up almost immediately. I’m feeling pretty positive about this beast of a zoomie compared to the sk98. I do not think this is direct drive at all, otherwise my UF Reds would have tripped their protection circuit early like they did with the SK98. And that’s probably a good thing for an XM-L T6 in such a small package.

Now I have a special purpose for those lame UF cells. Smile

JAFFO

scheven_architect
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I got my Sipik 98 today from Tmart! Had a 60% coupon so i only costed like 6$.

first impressions (compared to sipik sk68 clone):

+

very bright and wide flood
i like mode spacing

-

zoomed it’s not as bright as sk68 clone, led image seems warped (rounded)
led or retaining ring (can’t figure out which one) isn’t centered well

I don’t know yet if my light will melt but i can tell that the pill feels very light, i can’t seem to remove the plastic retaining ring so i can’t see the heatsinking.

 

 
scheven_architect
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Ok managed to open it and there is no heatsinking AT ALL

 

 
nofearek9
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post pics if you can.

scheven_architect
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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/10133?page=1#comment-180997

this is how it looks like, i’ve made an aluminium ‘core’ out of foil and hopefully this will add some heatsinking.

 

 
scheven_architect
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how do i stick aluminium to aluminium? superglue doesn’t seem to get the job done :d

 

 
scheven_architect
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After scratching the surface of the star it now sticks :d. After 30 seconds of use in high i’ve opened the head again and the aluminium i sticked to it is blistering hot, so i guess my unorthodox system works :d.

 

 
flash.light
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Ledsmoke wrote:
Oh and I forgot: I am SOOO disappointed with the SIPIK company! BAD COMPANY, BAD BAD BAD! To market this without proper heat sinking.

I think the ‘sk98’ configuration is pretty much done for if one goes by the number of offerings on the Chinese form of ebay (there’re only 9 total SK98 link) versus the 5 or so pages for the SK68 link.

scheven_architect
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how do i remove the driver so i can fill up the entire pill? It doesn’t seem to be soldered to the pill but it sits very very tight.

this is how i fixed it now, the volume of added aluminium is about 1,5-2x that of the star, but as you can see it doesn’t contact the pill => rest of flashlight so all the heat goes to the clump of aluminium.

UPDATE: i managed to get the driver out, it was just stuck very very hard

I’m going to fill up the empty space between my added aluminium and the wall of the pill with some more aluminium instead of desoldering the driver and making an entire new aluminium disc.

I have another question: can the plastic of the wires melt when in contact with the added aluminium?

 

 
scheven_architect
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I did understand your method, but i don’t have soldering irons atm. I just added some additional aluminium foil so i have something similar like your method, with the aluminium contacting the walls of the pill. Should work as well (but not as good) :).

UPDATE: After testing the flashlight, the body gets hot which should indicate that the heat goes from the star – my ghettofix – pill – flashlight body.

 

 
scheven_architect
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Despite adding the extra heatsinking my sk98 still desoldered itself yesterday after only 30s of use :d. Sent an email to Tmart, advising them not to sell this light anymore.

 

 
nofearek9
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scheven_architect wrote:
Despite adding the extra heatsinking my sk98 still desoldered itself yesterday after only 30s of use :d. Sent an email to Tmart, advising them not to sell this light anymore.

to desoldered itself this mean huge amount of heat,you should not be able to touch the flashlight.
scheven_architect
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nofearek9 wrote:
scheven_architect wrote:
Despite adding the extra heatsinking my sk98 still desoldered itself yesterday after only 30s of use :d. Sent an email to Tmart, advising them not to sell this light anymore.
to desoldered itself this mean huge amount of heat,you should not be able to touch the flashlight.

That would be the case if the heatsinking was well designed but all the heat stays on the LED star (although i added some aluminium on the back).

 

 
Tmart
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scheven_architect wrote:
Despite adding the extra heatsinking my sk98 still desoldered itself yesterday after only 30s of use :d. Sent an email to Tmart, advising them not to sell this light anymore.

After read through the comments, the SK98 still kept the week craftsmanship of SK68, thanks for your opinion and advice, we hope everyone would notice the SK98 is week in heat dissipation before go to SK98. it seems that some people take it as a acceptable one.

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To provide high quality products at low price.

To provide fast, efficient order turnaround.

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Snippo
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I received this one yesterday. After I applied the aluminium foil trick the body actually seemed to get less hot than before. I let it run for 20 minutes and it gets warm but not too hot to touch. I also have a SK68 and the biggest difference for me is that the zoom-mechanism is much smoother on the SK98 (it’s a little loose actually). With this light you can change from flood to throw with your thumb while with the SK68 I need two hands to change the zoom mode. And of course it gives quite a bit more light than the SK68 (with a bigger hotspot). Flood-mode is perfect and throw-mode is nice to have in the same flashlight but nothing special imo.
I’m happy with it, especially for the price I paid for it :).

raccoon city
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Welcome to your new home, Snippo!

Best0270

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zx3junglist
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Has anyone considered doing a strobe delete on the driver? Is it possible? I know someone was suggesting to get a 3A single-mode. I’m considering options. I like how the SK68 is single-mode. I think a trick zoomie like this doesn’t need low or blinky modes.

Karboncraig
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I got one of these & inserted some foil behind the star & put some thermal paste on too.It gets warm but not mega hot(Sipik version by the way) For the price I can’t complain but it’s not mega bright in my eyes for an XML, I reckon my old spiderfire P7 is brighter. But it does throw further.

Against a HD2010

JaffoAZ
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JaffoAZ wrote:
Likewise, I got my UltraFire SK98 clone this last week. Regardless of the brand of cell I put in, charged to 4.2v, i’m getting over 2.5A on high. I tried SolarForce V3s, TrustFire Flames, and my crap UltraFire red 3000mAh.

And it is bright as hell and the head and body heat up almost immediately. I’m feeling pretty positive about this beast of a zoomie compared to the sk98. I do not think this is direct drive at all, otherwise my UF Reds would have tripped their protection circuit early like they did with the SK98. And that’s probably a good thing for an XM-L T6 in such a small package.

Now I have a special purpose for those lame UF cells. Smile

Just an update: The UltraFire sk98 clone is still going strong, and I’ve had no over heating issues. It remains bright and reliable without any heat sink modding. My Sipik SK98, however, has been disassembled indefinitely until I decide I want to heat sink it properly.

JAFFO

zx3junglist
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zx3junglist wrote:
Has anyone considered doing a strobe delete on the driver? Is it possible? I know someone was suggesting to get a 3A single-mode. I’m considering options. I like how the SK68 is single-mode. I think a trick zoomie like this doesn’t need low or blinky modes.

So to reply to my own post, here is a photo of the driver module from the SK98:

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x97/zx3junglist/2012-10-01163239.jpg

it’s definitely 20mm. Anyone know a source to buy a new 20mm single mode driver?

Werner
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One little advice from me, don’t use a 2eurocent coin for heatsink. it’s made from iron which is a bad heat conductor.
A 10eurocent coin is much better because its made from copper…

alex21
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Werner
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Mine hasn’t arrived yet. I’ve orderd on 4th October on mana font. Normally the manafont packages arrive very fast I’m so upset.
Anybody else who is waiting?

alex21
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The UF version retained the 3 modes from the 14500 version, might have to grab one

JohnnyMac
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zx3junglist wrote:
zx3junglist wrote:
Has anyone considered doing a strobe delete on the driver? Is it possible? I know someone was suggesting to get a 3A single-mode. I'm considering options. I like how the SK68 is single-mode. I think a trick zoomie like this doesn't need low or blinky modes.
So to reply to my own post, here is a photo of the driver module from the SK98: "http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x97/zx3junglist/2012-10-01163239.jpg":http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x97/zx3junglist/2012-10-01163239.jpg it's definitely 20mm. Anyone know a source to buy a new 20mm single mode driver?
Save yourself time and money...rewire it for direct drive.
Werner
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So finally mine arrived today, so I had to make my own coin…
For the first tests I use only thermal grease and no glue but it seems to work good, without heat sinking the flashlight doesn’t got hot and now it directly gets warm…mission accomplished.

The zoom is harder to move than the sk68 one. I have lubed it a bit up and loosens the pill that helped but not perfect. The mode changes every time when I switch it on. It seems not much brighter in flood with mid mode.

alex21
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Has anyone tried this in mule mode? As the sk68 (clone) easily lights up my backyard like day with fresh charged 14500 trustfires with the bezel+lens taken off

Werner
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Yes you can use it without lens, big flood of a XML.
But the driver has a so strange memory which every time you switch it on goes to next mode, I hate that.
So I have changed the LED to an U3 and I am going to put a good driver with 3A and switchable modes in it. Only Problem is the driver I wanted to use is a 17mm and you need a 20mm for the SK98, so I Have to get a copper ring or so.
Another possibility is to fill it up with aluminum powder and epoxy…I am thinking about it.

Perhaps my coin mod was not perfect, an aluminum cylinder which fills the whole pill till the driver would be perfect.

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