Posted KD XM-L P60 review

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old4570
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Posted KD XM-L P60 review

Might need a new sub section = Reviews ! 

Anyhow , tested my KD XM-L drop in = http://www.jayki.com/12081  

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Match
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Thanks for the review, Old4570.  Age old question, but I'm wondering what else can be done to improve heatsinking to prevent that sag.  Copper plug on the other side of the emitter in the pill perhaps?  I've got the same one on order, so eventually I'll get a chance to play with it.  I'm looking foward to those beamshots!

old4570
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I think the star needs to be mounted better ....

With mine , I lap the base of the star [ to make it flat ] , youd be surprised , how NOT flat the stars are ..

2/ I then epoxy the emitter/star down using the reflector to put on some pressure , this then gets the star as close to the pill  as possible ..

All = better heatsinking ...

 

Solution 2 , is use batteries with higher resistance , this way you control the Amps a little , as the battery does not discharge so high ...

You can tell , as the SAG is so fast , it has very little to do with the pill or flashlight body ..

The emitter / star is heating up ...

It also depends on = How well the emitter is mounted on the star ...

I have plenty of XP-G R5's and output is here and there , And I think it very much depends [ to start with ] how well that emitter is mounted ..

Unfortunately everything adds up ..

How well was the emitter mounted to star .

Star mounted in pill ..

How good is the pill ?

The driver ...

The battery ..

The flashlight ..

The clicky switch [ better believe it ] You can lose a lot with a bad switch ...

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

brted
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Interesting. Yours has a different circuit board than mine. The one I had was not green. And my LED was mounted to a black board and yours is white.

http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/977

old4570
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Ok thats interesting !  

They actually look like they may have been sourced from different manufacturers ?

Or the manufacturer has changed the parts used [ driver at least ] , all I can say is  , that was fast !  [ For parts to change ] 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Boaz
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What are the diferences in the earliest version and the later ..i"m scared that it's a total reversal of what we are commonly used to.That is the earlier model has bugs and flaws that later models have ironed out .. I'm much more scared that later models are  done cheaper and much more haphazardly than early versions .

 

these are the wild speculations you get into when you don't trust a soul ..very very sad ..

 

I'm coming Don ..save me a bed ..I'm crackin up

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

brted
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Boaz wrote:
What are the diferences in the earliest version and the later ..i"m scared that it's a total reversal of what we are commonly used to.That is the earlier model has bugs and flaws that later models have ironed out .. I'm much more scared that later models are  done cheaper and much more haphazardly than early versions .

They seem to perform the same. It could be that they use the same circuit board design, but went to a different color after the first run, though mine has writing on the bottom that Old's doesn't have, so it is probably a different design or at least a different version (and maybe a different supplier which might explain the quick price drop). My 5-mode is H-M-L-Strobe-SOS with modes set at 100%-30%-5% and mode memory that sets after the light is off for 2 seconds.

Budgeteer
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Wow...

I had to try my dropin (bought the RQ7 XM-L)

Cell voltage 4.12V Hi-max 2600mAh protected.

Tailcap measurements:

Hi: 3090mA

held the multimeter there for about 30-35sec and there were still 3082mA being drawn. Cannot be arsed to keep my hands there for a few minutes like paralyzed, sorry.

XTAR 2400mA protected 18700

Hi: 2,970mA... after 30 sec or so 2893mA unfortunately didnt measure the voltage :/ (silly me) Surely above 4.00V

It seems cells have a factor perhaps but most probably i got a better driver i really can't complain about.

Have to buy a luxmeter and a non contact thermometer one of these days...

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

peteybaby
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To Old4570: Does your camera allow you to set the aperture and shutter speed manually?  Any picture you take of the light's High mode should definitely look brighter than the Medium-mode picture, unless the camera is set to automatic.

old4570
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Just a cheap digital thats capable of taking night shots ... No manual anything ...

Budgeteer  Im not sure if its the driver , or the emitter , I just hope its not going thermal on you .. or doing massive sag [ you need a light box ] 

If it can hold the output , then you have done well . 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Budgeteer
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It seems it holds but no way to be sure without a light meter. However i do not do more than 10-15min because the heat is going to unbereable territory. Also don't fancy the idea to cook a li-ion in hand.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.